WARNING: This is ugly. Feel free to laugh but please help me!

[CHG1962]

I have a 1999 323i that we bought to have a daily driver for my son to commute to school with. She wasn't in top shape when we got her but things are steadily going downhill, the husband is busy and I decided I would "learn" about BMW's to at least get SOMETHING going toward making her behave.

My son got a code reader on her today - she threw 3: P0335, P1624, P0727. I start reading. I see where resetting the ECU is the best place to start.

Insert Key and turn until just before car fires up.
Hold the gas pedal to the floor for 5 seconds.
Turn key to off but don't remove.
Take foot off gas.
Leave key in ignition in off position for two minutes.
Remove key.

Fail doesn't even begin to describe the result. Now I insert key, turn, wiggle, pray, yell and NOTHING. Big, black dash, no sound nothing. If there's a super squirrel way to push, pull or flip something while holding 3 pieces of hair to the left to make her come back on and one of you nice folks knows........ HELP!!

Sincerely and thankfully waiting.....

Celeste

[Pelican Parts]

Hello and welcome to the forum! Code P0335 deals with the crankshaft position sensor (likely needs replacing), P1624 is for the Pedal Position Sensor, and P0727 is Engine Speed Input Circuit No Signal. Take a look at the link below to our site's DIY tech articles. You can likely replace and fix those issues yourself. Let us know if you have any other questions or if we can assist with any part needs.

https://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/tec...h_main_e36.htm

[ed323i]

Do the lights, hazard lights, etc still work?
Yes -> Check the ignition switch. It might have died, or the connector is off?

No (or if you determined the ign switch is okay) --> Check below:
Check the battery connectors in the trunk. Take the two big connectors/terminals off and re-attach them, making sure not to over-tighten the bolts (killing the battery). Please don't skip this step.. This has been the culprit a couple of times with me: battery terminals that seem to be on perfectly, but in reality aren't.
Then measure voltage there, on the battery poles. It should be 12.5V. Recheck if car starts...

If not, then pop the hood and see if you can still see that same 12.5V on the big red +12V connector (take off black cover first) at the passenger side, near the firewall. Measure between the +12V connector and a ground pin like the bolts on the shock towers.
If there is no voltage there, it could be the big fuse between the battery and the rest of the electronics.. Not sure where it is in the E36 though (in the E34/E32 it's below the rear seats if I remember correctly).

Then see if you can find +12.5V in the fuse box. If you open the fuse box, you can see a cable bolted to the fuse box. That should be +12.5V.
If you have the 12.5V on every check point, then check/replace the ignition switch..
If you get to this point and the problem is not in the ignition switch, then start checking all fuses and relays and cables.. Can get quite complex. Get the wiring diagrams and go from there.

I think this should get you started.. Good luck, and let us know what you find..

Oh, by the way, do you know if you have an E36 or an E46, as in 1999 both the E36 and E46 were produced? (google "bmw e36" and "bmw e46" to see example photos if you're not sure)

[shogun]

moved to E36 forum from E36 DIY