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Thread: MotorMouth93's 2003 540i/6 Quasi-Restoration Build Thread

  1. #51
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    That car had a rough life, 94k on the clutch, and now this. Too bad.

    BTW, I'm at 164k on the clutch, and counting.


    Ed in San Jose '97 540i 6 speed aspensilber over aubergine leather. Build date 3/97. Golden Gate Chapter BMW CCA Nr 62319.

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    Last edited by MotorMouth93; 02-14-2020 at 05:23 PM.

  3. #53
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    I'm eager to hear what others think, especially those with more experience with these blocks/cylinders. As for me, I'm left with a few more questions:

    For starters, why are those scratches black? Is that just the lighting in the photo? Do they look like scratches in bright aluminum with different lighting? And why are they so short?

    I've read that carbon build-up can be soft and sooty, or hard enough to scratch a cylinder wall (essentially turned to hard coke), or anywhere in between. These look like black carbon marks on a light aluminum background (like black chalk marks on a white board). If so they'd be nothing to worry about. Could just be carbon marks that can be scraped off easily by you or the rings.

    I'm also not sure they'd be worth worrying about even if they were in the cylinder walls. As I said, I'm eager for others' insight on that.

  4. #54
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    Last edited by MotorMouth93; 02-14-2020 at 05:23 PM.

  5. #55
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    Was hoping otherwise. Sorry!

  6. #56
    geargrinder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MotorMouth93 View Post
    When I separated the head a decent amount of black stuff fell down into the cylinder, I wiped out as much as I could but there was still some stuck in the crack between the piston and the cylinder wall.
    Quote Originally Posted by MotorMouth93 View Post
    Under different lighting the scratches are shiny aluminum, they are very deep and easily catch a fingernail so there’s no way it’s just carbon marks.

    The bits feel/look like fine gravel.
    OK. This is what happened. Yes you absolutely did make those scores.

    It had nothing to do with turning the crank backwards or anything.

    Here's how it played out:
    - For 15yrs, road dirt piled up in and around the V - around the cylinder head joint, around the intake manifold ports etc. etc. (as it almost always does... there's ALWAYS gravel and sand and filth down in the V crannies... on any motor really...)
    - Head removed, said dirt indeed fell into cylinders
    - Either before or as you 'wiped', some hard and sharp little stone particles ("big sand" basically...) made their way into the ring gap
    - As soon as you started moving the pistons, they wedged into the ring gap and happily ground grooves into your block
    - Block now garbage

    Sorry man.

    Two big no-nos there...

    The first is to always always clean the motherfork out of stuff before you ever crack a head off, then have a routine to plug, cover , etc all the exposed internals. Compressed air, vacuums, water-based cleaning, solvents, whatever it takes.

    The second is, when you realizing you makez da mistakez, not immediately going on extreme "touch nothing" red alert to clean it up. "Wipe out" ain't gonna cut it... however, had you simply not touched a thing in the cylinders before diligently using a powerful shop vac to carefully suck around each and every ring-gap, its highly likely you woulda been fine.

    Bummer.
    2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
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    2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
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    1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)


  7. #57
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    Last edited by MotorMouth93; 02-14-2020 at 05:23 PM.

  8. #58
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    Sounds like a deal.

    This has helped me learn too. The last heads I pulled were on a 3.9 Land Rover. Sure, I cleaned the outside of the engine a little before pulling the heads. But not meticulously. SOP is to clean things real thoroughly after disassembly. Now I know to clean that area real well before removing the heads.

    One thing I didn't see on your list for the new engine is to replace the OSV (oil separator valve) and to make sure the drain tube going from it to the sump is good and clear. The OSV isn't really a valve -- it's a skinny baffled funnel that too often gets broken or clogged. When it does lots of oil gets sucked into the intake through the crankcase vent valve and burned. Easy to replace if you have the front covers off. A PITA to deal with or by-pass otherwise.

    Good luck! Everything else about your car looks great. (I have the same thing from '02, but it's not as well detailed as yours.)

  9. #59
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    Last edited by MotorMouth93; 02-14-2020 at 05:24 PM.

  10. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by MotorMouth93 View Post
    Thanks for the advice, looks like the oil separator parts are all pretty cheap so I'll replace all of them.

    Question to people who've done timing stuff on these engines before: I have receipts from the previous owner indicating that both VANOS units were rebuilt by Dr. Vanos, however my car still had the Vanos rattle noise. Is that normal for the Dr. Vanos units? Should I move them over to the new engine? Or should I just buy the Beisan kits and rebuild the new VANOS units myself?

    Also whats the best way to mount the engine on a stand? Is it safe to mount on a regular 4-arm engine stand? My old 4-banger 1.8L Honda motor that weighed half as much and made 1/3 the torque had much beefier bell housing bolts than the M62 so I'm not sure if I'm safe doing that.

    Also bought the engine today, 127k miles out of a 2000 540i. I'm going to use all of my accessories and just swap out the long block.
    Dr. Vanos uses the exact same Beisan Systems seals as anybody else... they just charge a fortune. Some rattle is inevitable, that's just how the system is. An easy way to check your Vanos seals is to take your Vanos units and try to turn them by hand. Units that have been resealed and pressed properly should be moderately difficult to turn by hand, whereas a loose unit indicates either failed seals or an inadequate press.
    1995 525i 5-speed - Thread

  11. #61
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    On vanos units that I've replaced the seals on the center section would fall out when you held it upside side down.
    After replacing the seals turning the center section by hand was difficult it not impossible.

  12. #62
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    Yeah on these motors real loud rattle isn’t from VANOS seals it’s from guides - I believe the I6 VANOS are different in that regard... they have different seals that can go and cause valve noise. If you had noise something else was prob no good...
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  13. #63
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    Last edited by MotorMouth93; 02-14-2020 at 05:24 PM.

  14. #64
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    540i 6spd DUDMD tuned-weekend brute, sounds like an M5 throaty V8 "Vtec-ish" cam noise.

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  15. #65
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    Last edited by MotorMouth93; 02-14-2020 at 05:25 PM.

  16. #66
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    I don't think you mentioned these for your old motor. I'd do them for the replacement.

    While you're at it, I would install a new water pump with an 88 C mechanical thermostat (not computer-controlled, non-Map).

    For many of us, our water pumps just gave out without warning. No leaking or squeaking, just sudden failure. My old one locked up on the highway, popping the belt and leaving me stranded. Good preventative maintenance to replace it. Not expensive.

    The stock computer controlled thermostat often has the engine at 105 C. (Theoretically for fuel economy, not performance.) I live in NC and like the cooler engine MUCH better. Even more significant in TX weather. The lower coolant pressure also makes it easier on all those plastic components. (You can read all about it here.)

    I think I got mine at FCP or ECS.
    Last edited by R Shaffner; 11-14-2018 at 05:40 AM.

  17. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by MotorMouth93 View Post
    One of the ends of the middle U guide rail has about an inch of plastic missing and you could see some wear on the aluminum bracket from the timing chain so I can definitely see that making a racket.
    Yeah. That is bad and is 'full failure mode'. Lets hope your VANOS were rebuilt recently.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by R Shaffner View Post
    I don't think you mentioned these for your old motor. I'd do them for the replacement.

    While you're at it, I would install a new water pump with an 88 C mechanical thermostat (not computer-controlled, non-Map).

    For many of us, our water pumps just gave out without warning. No leaking or squeaking, just sudden failure. My old one locked up on the highway, popping the belt and leaving me stranded. Good preventative maintenance to replace it. Not expensive.

    The stock computer controlled thermostat often has the engine at 105 C. (Theoretically for fuel economy, not performance.) I live in NC and like the cooler engine MUCH better. Even more significant in TX weather. The lower coolant pressure also makes it easier on all those plastic components. (You can read all about it here.)

    I think I got mine at FCP or ECS.
    Kinda seems like there's a pic or link missing there?
    2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
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    2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
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    Former:

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  18. #68
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    Last edited by MotorMouth93; 02-14-2020 at 05:25 PM.

  19. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by MotorMouth93 View Post
    The VANOS units were rebuilt a couple years ago by Dr. Vanos and are very tight, the previous owner, inexplicably, did not have the guides done at the same time.
    I just about guarantee what happened was he ill-inform-edly tried to fix startup rattle on the cheap by doing just the VANOS. Didn't work at all naturally because guides were crapping out, so he sold the car to you.

    Good that you have solid VANOS hubs tho'.
    2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
    2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
    2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
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  20. #70
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    he meant to add it i suppose https://www.ecstuning.com/b-vemo-par...512248542~vmo/ i have this same exact one on mine its amazing temp is at constant 203 degree F from 220-225. also he is correct where it relieves pressure on the cooling system. I noticed on my old one i could hear the coolent tank bubbling with pressure while the new one i dont hear it anymore after hard driving.


    Quote Originally Posted by geargrinder View Post
    Yeah. That is bad and is 'full failure mode'. Lets hope your VANOS were rebuilt recently.

    - - - Updated - - -



    Kinda seems like there's a pic or link missing there?
    540i 6spd DUDMD tuned-weekend brute, sounds like an M5 throaty V8 "Vtec-ish" cam noise.

    Hummer- 35inch MT's, Adventure offroad package.



    check out my video gear
    https://kit.co/Lv5multimedia/mobile-videographer-set-up

    Best Oil hands down for bmw
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...1441c0abde2552

  21. #71
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    Last edited by MotorMouth93; 02-14-2020 at 05:25 PM.

  22. #72
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    Should pull off... held on in operation by the crank bolt via the serp pulley flange.. of course only after you release the oil pump chain too. I suppose if its taken a set maybe gently try a puller? I haven't had to pull one off but I don't think it's a hard press fit? The front "main" seal is all in the cover which youve had to remove anyway, I have no idea if that second seal is fragile and/or important?
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  23. #73
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    Last edited by MotorMouth93; 02-14-2020 at 05:25 PM.

  24. #74
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    Looks good. Wow 100 bucks to remove the extractor.
    Did you happen to take the cam to cam chain tensioner apart to clean them out.

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    Last edited by MotorMouth93; 02-14-2020 at 05:25 PM.

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