330 ZHP oil pump nut part number?

[supalatebreken]

Hello guys, I'm having a hard time finding the safety wired oil pump nut here in Spain. I've been told that the E46 330i ZHP came with that secured oil pump nut from factory, so I went to a BMW dealership and asked for it but the guy said he couldn't find it without a VIN or part number since it's a car from another market (USA only right?). Anyways I believe he just didn't wanna spend much time looking for a "simple" nut... So my questions are...

1. Did the 330 ZHP come with this safety wired oil pump nut?



2. If it did, could anyone give me a real 330i ZHP vin to look for the nut? Or better yet, the part number directly.

I found this on realoem http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=11_2868 (part 11, for vehicles with sport package) but I'm not sure if that's the one...

That's all... thanks a lot in advance! I've read a lot on these forums (since there's not that much information in spanish forums as there is here) but never had the need to register and post so this is how it begins... i'll surely stay!

[TerraPhantm]

ZHPs came with factory threadlocker, not safety wire. Part number is 11417897238



Even if you do safety wire it or even go as far as welding on the nut, the shaft has been known to shear off. The Vaico pump is probably the most definitive fix if your car is going to see significant high RPM use.

FWIW on my own ZHP with 175k miles, the nut was on tight when I recently had the oil pan off.

[supalatebreken]

Thanks for the early reply man.
So bmw never supplied that safety wired nut... Okay.
By the way, im aware that this is not the definitive fix for a m54b30 but i wanted the nut for a m52b28, which doesnt have as many problems with the crank at high rpm as the m54 does.
I think i'll just weld the nut since i can only find the safety wired one on eBay for more than 20€ (gotta pay shipping from another country)

[ayedurand]

There's nothing magical about safety wired fasteners. The fastener has to do its job first the wire is only to keep it from unwinding. As is the case with thread locker. From a functional perspective if applied properly, there isn't an appreciable difference.

Take the normal nut and drill a small hole between two flats just like the one you show. Prethread and tighten "some" so you know which corner you want drill. Otherwise you have to drill at least half of them. The key though is your wiring technique. Make sure you have the unwinding of the fastener resisted by the wire. It's easy to get confused.

Alternatively, thread locker will do the job if you do a good job cleaning the threads. Oil is the enemy.

I'm not as much as a fan of welding. It seems easy enough but there are some drawbacks. The heat affected zone is unpredictable and could intrude on your fastener effective area. Not too big of a deal if the fastener is lightly loaded. Also you have the opportunity to contaminate things with FOD from your weld. But mostly to do the job right, it had to be as clean as you would need for thread locker.

Lots of options, all with strengths and weaknesses. Frankly, I'd copy the factory for a street engine unless you have specific evidence of a failure and a proven solution. Then implement the solution exactly as deviation invites speculation.

Sent from my LG-TP260 using Tapatalk

[supalatebreken]

There's nothing magical about safety wired fasteners. The fastener has to do its job first the wire is only to keep it from unwinding. As is the case with thread locker. From a functional perspective if applied properly, there isn't an appreciable difference.

Take the normal nut and drill a small hole between two flats just like the one you show. Prethread and tighten "some" so you know which corner you want drill. Otherwise you have to drill at least half of them. The key though is your wiring technique. Make sure you have the unwinding of the fastener resisted by the wire. It's easy to get confused.

Alternatively, thread locker will do the job if you do a good job cleaning the threads. Oil is the enemy.

I'm not as much as a fan of welding. It seems easy enough but there are some drawbacks. The heat affected zone is unpredictable and could intrude on your fastener effective area. Not too big of a deal if the fastener is lightly loaded. Also you have the opportunity to contaminate things with FOD from your weld. But mostly to do the job right, it had to be as clean as you would need for thread locker.

Lots of options, all with strengths and weaknesses. Frankly, I'd copy the factory for a street engine unless you have specific evidence of a failure and a proven solution. Then implement the solution exactly as deviation invites speculation.

Sent from my LG-TP260 using Tapatalk

You made some valid points but i have read from some people here that their nut backed off even after using thread locker. This problem is mostly related to the m54b30 and s50/s52us, which share crank, but its also been reported to happen on m50/m52. My m52 will see high rpm very often, its gonna be a street/track car so i really wanna make sure my nut stays there... Just the thought of running it hard with no oil pressure without even noticing until its too late is enough reason to do something about it lol!

[sockethead]

145k on my ZHP and the nut on the oil pump was tight. Took some effort to loosen it. I've owned the car since 44k and haven't been easy on it at all during that time. I really don't think it's that much of an issue unless you're going to be in the upper RPM range all the time. If it's not loose, I'd leave it alone...

[supalatebreken]

145k on my ZHP and the nut on the oil pump was tight. Took some effort to loosen it. I've owned the car since 44k and haven't been easy on it at all during that time. I really don't think it's that much of an issue unless you're going to be in the upper RPM range all the time. If it's not loose, I'd leave it alone...

Yeah but sometimes it happens... There is a lot people who say it happened to them, i dont think they'd lie about it so the problem is common enough to be concerned (depending on the use of the engine ofc)
I should also say that i wouldnt be going through all the hassle of dropping the oil pan in a e36 just to safety wire that nut, since my engine is out at the moment. It will be an easy job and i have to change the oil pan gasket anyways so... I just wanna be safe and not have to worry about that nut ever again lol