The shop replaced the door on the M-Roadster. And now the window only goes up and down 1" at a time. Holding the button or pressing to the auto click doesn't work. The window worked fine before they door swapped it.
I can mash the button quickly and its pretty smooth, doesn't act like its in a bind or over currenting. (Our e36 m3 retracts the window if it binds on the way up).
The relearn steps I've seen all assume the window will continue to go up and down if the button is held...
I read something about a magnet ring? used for the motor to tell its position? Maybe the shop lost it?
I plan on taking it back to the shop. But I would like to try some steps that don't require opening the door before I do.
But sense they screwed it up the first go... It looks like I need to hold their hand to fix this, and want to give them as much info as possible.
Thanks!
-Levi
Roll both windows all the way down. Close the doors. Insert the key into the drivers door and hold the key in the fully clockwise position. This will "retrain" the window motors (both windows will/should roll all the way up) and you should be good to go. I had to do this after I replaced the drivers side regulator not too long ago. That was on a Coupe, but I'll bet it's the same for a Roadster.
Last edited by s8ilver; 05-17-2018 at 10:57 AM.
Nathan in Denver
1999 M Roadster, VFE V3 S/C, Randy Forbes Reinforced, Hardtop, H&R/Bilstein, Apex PS-7, Supersprint
1999 Z3 2.8 Coupe, Headers, 3.46, Manual Swap, H&R/Koni, M Geometry/Brakes, M54B30 Manifold, Style 42
Whenever I lose my auto-up/down function, I just get the window up and hold the up button for maybe 5 seconds, then hold it down until it goes down and then another 5 seconds once at the bottom. Seems to always work for me
Sounds like you did a similar process using the key to control the window instead
That works great if your window actually goes up all the way. OP's window is only moving an inch at a time, so I don't think the button hold trick works here. But I hear you; if OP can get the window all the way up, perhaps the 5 second hold will be enough. I'm surprised the shop returned the car with a incorrectly functioning window in the first place, especially since it worked before the door swap.
Last edited by s8ilver; 05-17-2018 at 11:08 AM.
Nathan in Denver
1999 M Roadster, VFE V3 S/C, Randy Forbes Reinforced, Hardtop, H&R/Bilstein, Apex PS-7, Supersprint
1999 Z3 2.8 Coupe, Headers, 3.46, Manual Swap, H&R/Koni, M Geometry/Brakes, M54B30 Manifold, Style 42
Yeah, i'm not impressed, the service manger is claiming it worked before I took it home...
The first try after holding for 5 seconds, holding down will only drop the window 1"... but maybe I got the order mixed up... (it was early morning when I gave it a try)
I'll give the key method a try. but I was under the impression this was for cars that has the windows go down/up when you open and close the door to reset that function?
I'll give both a try around lunch time.
EDIT: Tried both on break.
With the car in Accessory position, I raised both windows completely and than help the up buttons for 10 seconds. When I hold the down button, the passenger goes down, but the driver side only drops an inch or so.
I than dropped the windows entirely shut the door and held the driver key in lock position. The passenger window goes all the way up (That's a SWEET feature!) the Driver door goes up 1". subsequent key holds raise the window 1" (or so) at a time.
No change in operation.
Thanks!
-Levi
Last edited by saber63; 05-17-2018 at 12:47 PM.
Well, all the window motors are the same across all the models (67 62 8 401 791 for drivers side). I assumed the relearning process was the same too, but could be wrong as of course the Coupe window behaves differently with the auto open/shut feature when door is opened/closed. When I did the key method on my Coupe, the auto up & down switch functions worked right away without any further messing though. I didn't have to hold the switch up for 5 seconds (I think 3 seconds is the official number from BMW).
Last edited by s8ilver; 05-17-2018 at 12:36 PM.
Nathan in Denver
1999 M Roadster, VFE V3 S/C, Randy Forbes Reinforced, Hardtop, H&R/Bilstein, Apex PS-7, Supersprint
1999 Z3 2.8 Coupe, Headers, 3.46, Manual Swap, H&R/Koni, M Geometry/Brakes, M54B30 Manifold, Style 42
so i edited my post with test results.
The symptoms are the same as this post http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=96989
While the 3 series and z series have different motor part numbers, they look the same and have the same connectors.
Is it possible my Z3 is having a similar issue? It's not throwing any codes however... (other than tcs and srs)
When the shop replaced the door, they could have connected the window motors wrong:
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...65&postcount=1
Solution:
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...5&postcount=21
Fits with the end of this thread, where plugs and connectors are blamed:
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=721624
Last edited by Vintage42; 05-18-2018 at 07:23 AM.
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