Okayyy... so I just picked up a 2003 325xi with 139k miles on it. Previous owner stated "doesn't run" but as I poked and prodded for more information he stated that it was running, started idling rough, then eventually started stalling / not starting. Only codes were P0313, P1083 & P1085. He tore it down and removed the lower intake boot, finding the smaller port of the boot torn. That's as far as he'd gotten when he picked up another vehicle and let this one sit in his garage all winter.
I picked it up and bought a new intake boot for it, but have a couple of issues mostly related to someone else having torn it apart (who I'm pretty sure was a complete idgit).
First: The brackets at the front of the engine and that hold the harness under the DISA valve & intake boot are now completely lacking their fasteners. Any have a clue where a diagram or parts list can be found that show which size nuts / screws each bracket uses so that I can order the correct fasteners?
Second: I've installed the new lower intake boot. I've located the cable/connector for the DISA valve and cable/connector for the MAF sensor. Coming from the same area of the harness is also a third 2-pin connector that I'm unfamiliar with. Any clue?
Third: Should this area of the air filter box be just open to the engine compartment? Seems like there should be -something- here. https://imgur.com/a/MsKyU3i
Fourth: The vehicle's current state is: It turns over and attempts to start, enough for the tach to come up to 1k-1500 RPM, then immediately dies. (Literally only running for a couple of engine revolutions).
I'll accept any and all help I can get! Seems close to running.
Thanks,
Ric
#3: there’s a plastic extension that fits between the high beam headlight and the radiator. It’s supposed help pull in cold air.
Go to www.realoem.com and enter the 7 characters of the car’s vin. Hit enter and bookmark the page. Scroll down to engine to check for the fasteners.
Sounds like the 2 pin connector may go to the idle control valve if its in that area with the disa and MAF.
Doubt much can be determined diagnostically from this, but here's how it is currently acting. I have the rear seat removed and can hear the fuel pump kick on for a short period when the key is turned on. I've gotten it to run very roughly feathering the gas, but it won't stay running and definitely won't idle on it's own. The only way I got it to even stay running for about 15 seconds feathering the gas was right after I'd cleaned the MAF with MAC cleaning spray. Then it went back to doing this. (Yes, I'd run the battery down trying to get it running and at the end of the video it was dead enough not to turn over.)
Also, the connector that I found disconnected wasn't the idle air control valve, that was connected. It seems to be from what I can tell the connector I have circled below.
Last edited by NYGuy315; 05-16-2018 at 10:20 PM.
Here's how it currently runs, but only with the MAF disconnected. Won't idle at ALL with the MAF plugged in.
Any ideas? Definitely, definitely doesn't sound good :/
a diagnostic scan couldn't hurt.
I would test fuel pressure readings,
but I also suspect a massive intake leak.
If you possibly can, hook it up to a fuel pressure gauge!
I would tend to agree that there's an intake leak / vacuum leak somewhere. I just can't find it. It sounds like there's a massive sucking sound coming from the area of the intake headers / injectors.
If it's massive,
It should definitely be observed with a carefully controlled squirt of starting fluid,
carefully placed near the sucking sound!
Correct Sir! Although I didn't have starting fluid, I did however have MAF cleaner. I also have no clue how I missed the leak.
The entire intake to oil separator line that passes down between the first and second intake headers.. is missing. The elbow is there, the line that runs across the top is there.. the rest of the line where it goes down and connects with the separator.. is just.. gone..
That makes for a pretty big air leak
Thanks, the car still has some gremlins though even after plugging the hole where the line joins the intake. Although now with most of the intake leaks stopped it was the opposite issue, won't run in open loop without feathering the gas, but once it goes closed-loop it runs like a top.
I'll have to wait until I get paid, pick up the kit and just go to town replacing the whole CCV/Oil Separator/lines.
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