Afternoon folks I have a 1994 525 auto. I bought everything to perform a manual swap from a 1995 525. I’m getting ready to start the swap and have a question regarding the wiring. I have read about grounding and jumping wires to eliminate the trans program error and to get cruise control to work, as well as the starter relay and jumping that. Mine has the tall mustard color relay in the kick panel and I pulled the tall black colored one from the donor. Will this relay eliminate the need for grounding and jumping wires or does that still need to be performed? Thanks
Some are under the hood in the fuse box, others are behind the driver speaker, and some the ews has it integrated into the ews module. First check under the hood it should be all the way to the left of the fuse box. If you have 2 empty spots proceed to behind speaker, if you have just relays that say (abs) printed on them you have the ews integrated. Find the ews under the column left side and bridge the large black yellow wire and cut it out of the ews module. It took me a while of searching to find the ews integrated info... my car has the ews style
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I uses this info was very helpful
http://www.bmwe34.net/E34main/Upgrade/5speedswap.htm
Me E30 87/ 325i + F25 12/ M-Sport + E32 94/ 740i
G/F’s E34 92/ 525iT + F48 18/ X1
Swapping the relay eliminates the need to splice those wires only. I just completed the manual swap on my ‘95 (early ‘95 - no EWS). You’ll still need to do some work in the wiring at the shift console to eliminate the trans ECU and wire up your reverse lights. The bmwe34.net link above is a good resource. My cruise control works flawlessly.
Thank you, thank you, and thank you again. This is what I was trying to find out before I started the swap. When you completed yours, did you disconnect the transmission module or does it need to remain connected afterwards? Would you mind if I asked you some other questions if I run into problems along th way?
You leave the trans comp in place. I snipped the wires from the auto trans connector and stuffed them under the center con. Also don’t bother playing with the over center spring you can just un bolt the auto pedal bracket and bolt the manual pedal box in its place. I have over 2 years on my set up with out the spring and it feels exactly the same... saves you a lot of aggravation not having to play with the column
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Also this is a place for helping people never hesitate to ask questions even if it’s been discussed before. Some people get all upset about multiple threads on a subject but this just makes it easier for you and future people to solve an issue
Me E30 87/ 325i + F25 12/ M-Sport + E32 94/ 740i
G/F’s E34 92/ 525iT + F48 18/ X1
I yanked the trans ECU out of the car. Would have pulled the whole harness too but I didn’t want to start pulling up more carpet. Works fine without the ECU connected. The Sport ‘S’ comes on for about 30 seconds on the dash on start up then goes away.
At the console area for the wiring, it’s literally 3 wires. Ground the one pin as instructed in the link, then just the 2 reverse switch wires.
Also if your car has traction control, it will be disabled and your light will be on. If you want it working you will likely have to swap to the correct computer. The ABS/traction computers have the same part number but are coded differently between auto/manual. I found my manual coded computer on eBay for $10. Guy had the last 7 of the VIN which I was able to run thru realoem.com to confirm it came from a manual car.
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