Can this be repaired or do I need to replace the unit? See crack on the green section. It will not hold cable in place like the other sections.
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I'd try a careful application of epoxy first.
Thanks Randy. I'll try that.
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I hope you find an epoxy that works. I tried a few different substances when I was refurbishing my console and HVAC. No matter what I tried, when I inserted the cable, the clip cracked again. I ended up gluing the cable into the clip with GOOP, I think. Replacing the clip was a consideration since I had a spare control, but I didn't have tools to attach the barrel to the end of the cable had I cut the end off. Does a new cable come with the clip attached?
I'm very interested in the solution of this problem.
Wayne
1998 M Roadster
1994 Honda ST1100--sold
2017 Yamaha FJR1300ES
There are good plastic epoxies
Choose the right one.
I would repair this. They are $100 + used.
I always keep a spare on hand.
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Does this cable control the heater? I am asking because when I turn on the heater, and move the control knob to heat, it won't blow air onto my feet. However, it will blow air if I move control knob to defrost (front windshield) or onto my face.
Occasionally you find one with an entire console attached. And a clock. And 8 switches. And wood trim. And an e brake boot. I have too many consoles already, but not a terrible price for all those bits that you could sell to offset some cost.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-Z3-Conv...8AAOSwPkBaYTui
Last edited by s8ilver; 05-15-2018 at 12:44 PM.
Nathan in Denver
1999 M Roadster, VFE V3 S/C, Randy Forbes Reinforced, Hardtop, H&R/Bilstein, Apex PS-7, Supersprint
1999 Z3 2.8 Coupe, Headers, 3.46, Manual Swap, H&R/Koni, M Geometry/Brakes, M54B30 Manifold, Style 42
Wayne
1998 M Roadster
1994 Honda ST1100--sold
2017 Yamaha FJR1300ES
Lol. No.
Whenever one pops up at my local pick & pull this is the first thing I remove.
They charge me $23 for the ‘manual AC control’
I usually flip them for $125 on eBay.
Sell pretty quickly so I probably let someone have a good deal. But that’s ok. No need to be that greedy.
Always keep a spare on hand for my own use if needed.
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Ok, the JB weld did not hold. I wished there was a way just to get just the green cable replaced. Something I don't understand...When I hold the broken plastic portion of the green cable with pliers, the cable that's attached to the firewall still does not move the metal cable back and forth when I turn the knob. However, it will move if I use my hand to move it. Is the metal cable secured inside the black covering so that it moves the green plastic connector? Can someone explain the process and why it's not properly working? (see pics)
JB Weld is not going to do anything.
You need to bond the plastic back together.
This is what I would use.
https://www.amazon.com/Devcon-25ml-P...70_&dpSrc=srch
I found a cable with with green plastic holder (the broken one on my unit...see section 1 on this thread). However, I am having difficulty determining how to remove the other end of the cable that's held by 2 metal rivits on the clear plastic clamp (see pic). The metal cable (inside the black tubing) is designed to be held in place so that it can slide back & forth inside the black tubing. So how am I going to remove the old cable held by the black tubing? I think that somehow the plastic clamp needs to be removed, but how?
Last edited by MORRIE; 06-12-2018 at 10:40 AM.
I managed to pull the cable from the little metal holder that's attached to the clear plastic piece held by the 2 rivets (see photo). Now, the question is can I get it back into the little metal holder so it will stay in place? I'm waiting on a replacement cable because the one I ordered (see photo) is cracked on opposite side of the original cable I am replacing. What rotten luck!
Last edited by MORRIE; 06-12-2018 at 11:37 AM.
I've got a couple of ideas. But before I make a complete fool of myself, I need a picture of the other end of the cable and how it attaches to the lever and the "little metal holder".
Blue Ridge Mountains
1999 2.8 Z3 Coupe
Arctic Silver
Thanks Daven for your interest. I have another photo posted where the problem exist (see post #14). The opposite end (see post #1) of the cable held by green plastic is cracked but I am awaiting a replacement cable that's not cracked.
Last edited by MORRIE; 06-12-2018 at 11:46 AM.
Its the other end from the broken green plastic end, I'm interested in. How is the cable attached to the green lever? (to the left of the plastic clip) If you detach that end, the cable should (hopefully) just slide through the metal housing end sleeve on the riveted clamp. The new cable should come with metal ends attached to the cable that connect to the control arms on each end, the broken green clip and the black tubing - all as one assembly.
Blue Ridge Mountains
1999 2.8 Z3 Coupe
Arctic Silver
Look at post #1
Ok I give up. I asked about the cable attachment to the lever shown in Post 13, Pic 1 & Post 14 Pic 2. If you detach that end of the cable from the green lever, it should slide through the metal sleeve on riveted plastic mount.
Blue Ridge Mountains
1999 2.8 Z3 Coupe
Arctic Silver
What that photo reflects is the new cable that is ready for installation into the green plastic lever (see photo #2 post 14). However the black tubing holding the metal cable inside must be inserted into the small metal sleeve that's attached to the clear plastic piece riveted onto the white plastic piece. That might be easier done than said. I had to pull on the cable vigorously to remove it from the metal sleeve. I think I am going to have some difficulty getting it back into the sleeve. However, it must be stationery inside the sleeve in order for the levers to properly work. Unfortunately I am still waiting on my contact to find and ship that particular cable.
Last edited by MORRIE; 06-13-2018 at 08:53 PM.
The black tubing is actually called a housing. It should be metal lined vinyl. You can judiciously sand the vinyl to get it to fit into the cable stop (metal tube) But you are right it needs to fit snugly so not too much sanding. You might alos try a little rubbing alcohol as a lubricant, it will evaporate leaving the housing 'stuck' in the stop.
I misunderstood your problem. I thought that you were trying to figure out how to take the cable out of the stop, not trying to get the housing back in.
Last edited by daven; 06-13-2018 at 09:49 PM.
Blue Ridge Mountains
1999 2.8 Z3 Coupe
Arctic Silver
Thanks for the information
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So you guys know the answer to This? When I turn the knob from cold to hot why does it not turn freely but instead stop at a half way point but given a few minutes will turn all the way over? Will replacing this cable resolve the issue or does another cable need to be replaced?
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FYI...The metal clip attached to the plastic piece that holds the black housing can be removed from plastic piece so the black housing holding the metal cable can be removed and then reinserted so the cable will be in a fixed position allowing the controls on the unit to properly work....just used a pair of needle nose pliers to squeeze the metal clip and out it comes.
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Last edited by MORRIE; 06-21-2018 at 10:10 PM.
Thanks for your replies. To tell the truth, I don't understand this at all but I would like to. My uncle can help me to repair the console, but it's a shame for me to ask him every time when I need help. I even thought to study online and get an HVAC license while we stay home in quarantine. I found some interesting offers on https://www.hvacschools411.com/hvac-certification-license-online/ that I could handle because I have a lot of free time now. Does anybody know anything about them?
Last edited by JAbbot1985; 12-13-2020 at 06:53 PM.
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