Cross posting the below from the E32 forum in case any E32 M30 owners might also have some insight: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ssure-Question. Essentially, I'm finding that oil is draining from my oil canister very slowly (new o-ring, observing with bolt installed and cover off the canister), and it's not draining from the check valve. If I add a couple inches of oil, it'll drain over a few days. Is it normal for a little oil to drain back over time? Or do I perhaps have a problem with the other valve (the one not circled in the thread above)? Just seeking some advice before I put fresh oil in her in case I end up replacing the canister. Thank you!
You have two issues. Fuel dilution and the canister draining. Hopefully fresh injectors will stop the fuel in your crankcase which was probably the cause of the low pressure. Hopefully it wasn't run this way too long and no damage.
The oil canister check valve is de rigueur service on old M30s, I'm curious why you are convinced yours is not the issue and where else you might speculate the oil is going.
If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue
Thanks, ross. I had the fuel injectors refurbished and bench tested, and, apparently, they were not leaky. I also replaced the fuel pressure regulator, coolant temp sensor for the DME, and O2 sensor (it was due). If nothing else, the very short trips the car has experienced over the last year with the PO would have contributed to more gas in the oil than usual.
RE: the oil canister drain, I just wanted to make absolutely sure I wasn't missing something before I bought a new one and installed it. Appreciate your taking a look at the thread and offering your advice!
I'm pretty sure the canister is repairable, check Shogun's site for a DIY. By some miracle I've never been faced with this after having owned at least a dozen M30 cars.
Crap! Now I've said it
Sounds like you have the fuel system well in hand. Keep an eye on it though, you can imagine the consequences of diluted oil.
Last edited by ross1; 05-15-2018 at 08:43 AM.
If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue
Thanks, ross. I saw shogun's article on repairing the check valve (the valve in the upper most portion of the photo in the other thread). Given that oil still drains out of the canister after the area around the check valve is dry, it appears the valve in the lower portion of the picture is the problem. I haven't seen any DIY repairs for this one. Thinking I'll just order a new canister (found one at a BMW dealer for $180) and will try to repair the failing canister to have as a spare or sell. Here's hoping you didn't jinx yourself! Thanks again.
Bookmarks