On the first day after winter storage this week, my ABS, Brake and DSC dashboard indicator lights came on. I ordered a BMW C310 to diagnosis it myself and was thinking it was a wheel speed sensor. The scanner arrived today, I plugged it in, started the car and received the error code below. This is the first time i've used a scanner/reader. The scanner indicates part number 6769162. When I googled the part number, it says ABS Hydraulic Block. These are very hard to find and very expensive if you can find one; even a used one. Am it doing this correctly? If it is the ABS Hydraulic block, any suggestions on where to find one or other options? Is this issue common? Was this due to normal age or did something cause this failure?
Error code.jpg
I'm researching this further and saw a Forum thread from 2012 about someone that had the lights come on but thought it was a false reading. I'm not noticing any issues with braking or driving. Also, i had used an Auxilary radio cable to play music from my phone and i noticed some crackling in the radio from a bad connection. within seconds of this occurring, the dashboard indicator lights came on. Coincidence or did the static in the auxilary cable throw the codes and its a false reading? If so, how can i confirm? How can i do a reset to see if they come back on? In the meantime, is it still safe to drive?
That just tells you that the scanner is currently accessing the module with that part number. You didn't post a picture of the errors that are saved in that module.
I highly doubt that the radio has anything to do with your brake error.
Last edited by me77; 05-13-2018 at 08:21 AM.
Here is the error code image.
Error code 5-13-18.jpg
With the error code received, i can eliminate a wheel speed sensor as the issue, correct? From what i've been reading, there are 2 components to the ABS unit - electronic and mechanical. The electronic component is comprised of the electronic module and the mechanical component is comprised of the mechanical "actuator" and the pump for the actuator. I believe the 5DF0 and 5DF1 error code combination could mean that either the electronic module or the mechanical pump has failed; it doesn't confirm which one failed. It also sounds like the electronic module has a significantly higher fail rate compared to the fail rate on the pump. So do you assume its the electronic module that failed and send to one of the rebuilders or is there another step that is recommended to confirm whether its the electronic module or pump that failed?
At least from an older post, at that time, the top two rebuilders for the electronic module are ModuleMaster or BBA Reman. ModuleMaster has received positive feedback from what i've read and includes a 5 year warranty.
I appreciate the feedback everyone's patience!
Have you removed the electrical connector and given it a clean with contact spray?
For similar faults on a Z3, activating the ABS unit has given it a good shack up and the codes have gone away. Does your scanner allow you to activate the ABS unit? Usually requires the brake peddle to be pushed down.
1999 2.8L Z3 Roadster,
2000 3.0L Z3 Roadster,
There is only one thing more pleasurable than working on a Z3, that's driving it top down on a fine day.
Google “Z4 trifecta” ..... a very common cause is low voltage caused by various scenarios. Most likely you have a weak battery after the winter storage.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I kept the car on a battery maintainer over winter so I wouldn't think there was an issue with battery strength. Interesting update: I drove the car today and within 1/2 mile from leaving my house, the trifecta indicator lights disappeared. However, 25 minutes later, they came back on. Have others seen an intermittent issue with the i5DF0 adn 5DF1 code errors? With than said, i'm now under the impression that it isn't a complete pump failure but related to connectivity issues or maybe after the car heats up????
Eliminate the electrical as a cause first.... check standing voltage prior to start up. Check voltage while running at idle and when revs increased (alternator/regulator).
If the tests show your battery/regulator voltages are correct/regulator charging as it should then go on to check other causes.
I had ABS sensor faults showing.... when it wasn’t the issue at all.
Mine was caused by a faulty/corrupted aftermarket GPS I had plugged into the Z’s power source.
You could have a weak battery... despite the trickle charger.
Bookmarks