Exhaust size question

[fedisrico]

Holy mother of drone....I’m definitely going to get a cheap Flowmaster or something bc the sound with just the cutout after the resonator is an obnoxious droning noise that doesn’t flutter like I want.


I haven’t installed the butterfly valve yet so I’ll see how it gets when the cutout is closed. Geargrinder, can you provide more information as to how I would wire the vacuum pump into the trunk? I don’t know anything about wiring and wouldn’t even know what words to put into google to get what I’m looking for.


I’ll post a vid of the exhaust warm start and some revs when I get out of work. It only cost me $60 to get it welded in but I think he messed something up as the stock muffler is hanging down quite a bit

[fedisrico]

Definitely need headphones to hear the resonance and how loud it is. What do you guys think? It's too flat toned for me, I'd like a rumble

- - - Updated - - -

[makenzie71]

If you dumped it under the car after the cutout then you're going to get a lot of that noise in the car. I'm only running a resonator and there's no drone or excess noise in the cabin, but I'm piping it all out the back under the bumper.

A flowmaster is not going to make the car "rumble". It's just going to mellow out what's already there.

[geargrinder]

Holy mother of drone....I’m definitely going to get a cheap Flowmaster or something bc the sound with just the cutout after the resonator

Golly gee you were warned about drone but "went for it" cuz internet says EXHAUSTDUMPIZBALLLAAAAARR!!RACECARRR!WINNARZ!!!!!

But WUT!?!? Now it DRONES!??! WTF!?!?! HOLY CRAP!!! THATS UNBREEEELEEBABLE!! SO SHOCKING I POOP MYSELFS!!!



OK.

No offense mate but your posts tend to jump around and be a little info-deprived.

So NOW it seems you LEFT the resonator and just put a Y there? Your last post was "delete the rez and replace with a Y.". Or is that what you did so you have 100% dump? (either way is gonna be loud as effwerd honestly).

And weren't you the one who said...

not to do a full on straight pipe on my 540 as my town has really strict noise laws.

Uhhh errr... OK. Strict noise law concerns, but now you're running a straight open-exhaust dump? Dude that's gonna be horrifically loud until you get the valve on there.

Others are absolutely right about mitigating the in-car drone, but make no mistake, pushing the Y-dump out to the back will help the in-car drone a lot.. but .. .

The car is ALWAYS gonna be hella-loud to passers by with the dump open. And re-routing won't completely fix drone during open-dump operation, but it will help...

Re: wiring up your butterfly... well... sounds you're not really equipped or suited to DIY it. Suggest you have somebody who's comfortable with that sorta thing do it for or with you. I can't tell you exactly how I'd do it without doing an hour or two of investigation and online research but...

The basic steps would be...

• Empty trunk and examine existing wiring-grommet locations, decide the best place to bring wire up. I can't tell you exactly where I'd do it because I'd prob use the touring SLS / ride height wiring locations or perhaps the air-reservoir tube grommets? But you won't have those so not sure what best spot is for a sedan.
• Review rear fuse box... Ideally you use the factory fuse box but use an unpopulated spot, however often those are unwired. If there's a wired up but unpopulated location that you can stick a fuse in, that's the ideal. Otherwise select an existing lightly loaded fuse to tap off of that's not critical so if your wires short out it doesn't take out the fuse for a critical system (i.e. wouldn't do the alarm circuit or fuel pump or anything... something like PDC etc.)
• Also find a quality ground location, assuming it needs that too - those will be the bolts with a crapload of brown wires going to them. This should be easy.
• Execute the plan with quality wire and bits. Don't use cheezey "vampire taps". Don't use cheap crimp splices from the hardware store, either use high quality splices (I like the kind that include shrink wrap, so you crimp, then heat and shrink, and done), or, solder + shrink-wrap.

[fedisrico]

IMG_9598.jpg

This is how it looked before I put on the cover with the motor. The cheap pos exhaust clamp for the turndown broke so i think i"ll just order some piping and run it to the rear of the car since I don't like how it sprayed everywhere. I tested the remote control with the plug in the cigarette lighter port and it worked perfectly, basically stock when closed and loud but not as loud as before when open

The muffler shop put it in the worst place possible as there wasn't enough room to properly tighten the bolts and the motor can only fit perpendicular to the car

[geargrinder]

LOL.

Well. (and obviously you DID delete the rez after all...) that IS where you told them to put it (that's where the rezzo was...). Unless they were to fab up an extension and then turn the flange for you to resolve the orientation issues...

[fedisrico]

They could've moved it at least 5 inches back...lol. Well as far as wiring goes i'll take the easy route and wire it to the lighter

[fedisrico]

Quick question, if i pulled back the bundle of cables located by the passenger cabin air filter in the engine bay and ran my cable through there, would water get in as the seal would not close completely with my cable jammed in there?

[geargrinder]

Water can get up in there.... Why would you ever possibly bother with running all the way to the front like that? Oh right I forgot you're lazy, don't want to figure it out properly, AND don't mind it being a ghetto job.

[ninetyseven1]

The pre facelift , the tubing out of the Y res to the muffler is 76mm aprx 2.75 inches and closer to 3". Dont use a 2.5 inch pipe, its too small and will restrict power. Ask me how i know.

- - - Updated - - -

I have used this before with a nice 3" muffler. https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Mild-...nch,38876.html

[ninetyseven1]

The Magnaflow 11259 is the correct muffler for your car

[fedisrico]

If anyone reads this later, I ran the wire into the cabin by removing the driver's cabin filter and running it through the round empty grommet. It leads straight to the pedals and you can get the wire by just removing the screws closest to you and pulling the cover down a bit, a pain in the a$$ to get in there unless you're a midget but it's the easiest route and only took about 10min.

- - - Updated - - -

Btw, my LASER accurate butt dyno senses quite a bit of torque loss in the low end at least, but remote cutouts are the way to go if you live in a strict area

[ninetyseven1]

If anyone reads this later, I ran the wire into the cabin by removing the driver's cabin filter and running it through the round empty grommet. It leads straight to the pedals and you can get the wire by just removing the screws closest to you and pulling the cover down a bit, a pain in the a$$ to get in there unless you're a midget but it's the easiest route and only took about 10min.

- - - Updated - - -

Btw, my LASER accurate butt dyno senses quite a bit of torque loss in the low end at least, but remote cutouts are the way to go if you live in a strict area

You will get a lot of torque loss if you install a cutout before the yresonator, the y res is not just a resonator u know, its a helmholtz resonator designed to increase torque, smoothen out the exhuast flow and quiet things down. You will still get a torque loss even with just a muffler delete.

[fedisrico]

You will get a lot of torque loss if you install a cutout before the yresonator, the y res is not just a resonator u know, its a helmholtz resonator designed to increase torque, smoothen out the exhuast flow and quiet things down. You will still get a torque loss even with just a muffler delete.

Many would agree, many would disagree

[ninetyseven1]

its a fact. Not really debatable

[BimmrMeUpSnotty]

You kids and your ridiculous muffler deletes crack me up.... Dream on...

[StRaNgEdAyS]

its a fact. Not really debatable

I believe it's debatable...

Sent from my G8141 using Tapatalk