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Thread: Overheating, no fan

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    88
    My Cars
    2001 BMW 325xi, e46, m54

    Overheating, no fan

    Bought car in late Feb... Had a blown head gasket. I drove it down the street at the time just to be sure it went through all gears and there weren't any bad noises, but aside from that I didn't check to see if that fan worked or anything else.

    Between ordering parts, then finding out that I needed more parts, and after waiting on those, finding out I needed more parts lol, the car has not been started since. Until yesterday.

    I had a knock that I thought was coming from the timing being wrong since I simply set the engine to tdc and did not use the pin. However I believe the knock to be coming from the disa valve possibly, or somewhere else in or around the intake. It goes away with MAF removed and also once warmed up.

    Otherwise it runs fine, minus the vacuum leak because I can't fine where the other end of the gas evap valve goes...

    I drove 2 blocks away and got gas, then I went less than 5 miles and realized I was in the red. I immediately turned on the heater full blast and pulled over. Heat was blowing hot. I sat in the shade under a tree and enjoyed the scenery for a while (a nice spring meadow with trees and by the river too lol). Drove about half way home and got almost to red again, so I pulled over and enjoyed a much less appetising view (storage facility)... Finally got home and was again close to red, even with the heater blowing.

    I replaced
    ventilation/oil separator system.
    Upper coolant hose
    Coolant pipes
    Lower driver side hose that goes to pipe
    Water pump
    Torn intake boot
    Radiator
    Head hasket (Victor oversized HG)

    I still have a couple of connectors I have not found a place for yet, but I don't think those wires are connected to the cooling system.

    The main fan behind the bumper is not turning on. When I start the car it does not do anything. Also nothing when I crank the AC.

    I tried running 12v and ground wires directly to the connectors from the fan plug, and nothing happens.

    Tried jumping the connectors for the lower hose sensor. No effect.

    I can't find my multi meter and it's just a cheapo anyways, plus I'm not exactly sure how to test or measure the pulse signal or whatever it's called. I ran direct 12v and ground to the connector while it was plugged in, so I know it got power and the little wire was still connected too so 12v and grnd aren't the issue. I have not yet removed the bumper and put 12v and ground to the back of the actual fan itself, only the connectors. Probably be a good way to find out if the fan is shot.

    But it still bothers me that it overheated while I was driving. Coolant was not low. Although the coolant light is on. I followed proper bleeding procedure, turning key to on position with heater blowing... Bleed screw removed waited till only fluid came out with no bubbles closed bleed screw and cap. Ran the car for a bit and re did the process.

    Shouldn't the fact that I was driving at least 30-40 mph have kept air flowing past the radiator and helped it stay cool? That got me thinking about the thermostat being stuck closed, but if that was the case, wouldn't that stop hot water from getting to the heater core? Cus it was blowing hot... I didn't replace the thermostat because it looked new.

    So I know something is up with the fan, but I'm wondering if I should suspect something else as well.
    Last edited by Shawnk111; 05-09-2018 at 06:35 PM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Aberdeen, NC (yes, again)
    Posts
    23,673
    My Cars
    E39M5, E500 4WD
    Is this car a manual transmission, or an automatic? (The fans are very different) Does the car have an engine driven fan, or an electric one, behind the radiator? If the only fan is in front of the radiator, you are missing the main engine cooling fan.

    You cannot "hot wire" the electric fan. It has a computer in it. The a/c won't turn it on, unless the a/c works, and the fan works. A good BMW scan tool can activate the electric fan, for testing purposes.

    If there is air in the cooling system, the coolant will not flow correctly, if at all. Turning key to on position with heater blowing is not a correct and complete bleed procedure for any BMW. You'll find the correct bleed procedure in the FAQ section at the top of the forum. We're talking about an E46?

    There's no point in removing the bumper. The electric fan already has full time hot and ground. But again, that fan is NOT the main fan, it's an auxiliary fan.

    Chris Powell
    Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
    Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
    BMWCCA 274412
    German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    88
    My Cars
    2001 BMW 325xi, e46, m54
    Automatic e46. I do have the belt driven clutch fan. (Missing one blade so ordering a new one). And it also has the aux fan between the condenser and the bumper. I think the AC works but it is empty and needs recharged. The old shop I worked at has a snap on scanner but I'd have to drive there to use it. I read in a few places that that was the proper procedure, so I will be sure to read the one in the faq, because that could totally be the issue. Thanks
    Last edited by Shawnk111; 05-09-2018 at 09:37 PM.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Aberdeen, NC (yes, again)
    Posts
    23,673
    My Cars
    E39M5, E500 4WD
    Don't run the engine with a missing blade on the fan, or you risk expensive destruction. You may also need a new fan clutch, as well as the blade. If the fan clutch is toast, the fan won't cool the engine. The electric fan won't turn on until the a/c pressurizes a lot (which won't happen if it doesn't work) OR the DME sees extreme temps AT THE LOWER HOSE.

    Chris Powell
    Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
    Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
    BMWCCA 274412
    German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    88
    My Cars
    2001 BMW 325xi, e46, m54
    Okay I'll just order the new clutch and blades. I do remember reading about the clutch blades exploding if it's off balance and destroying everything lol

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Arlington, VA
    Posts
    9,934
    My Cars
    2018 BMW M240i
    The E46 cooking system is a temperamental wench. It needs to be properly bled or you’ll get air pockets in the block. I don’t think the lack of a fan is causing the overheating. I bet there’s a huge air pocket. Go to E46Fanatics and read Mango’s stickie on the cooling system and how to bleed it. Btw, did you buy cooling system parts made by the suppliers to BMW? Aftermarket cooling parts are strictly verboten.

    Here’s the definitive guide to the electric fan: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B59...VlE/view?pli=1 It was written by BMW-North, a Canadian tech. Basically, you need to troubleshoot the electric fan using this document. In the end you’ll likely need a new fan system.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    88
    My Cars
    2001 BMW 325xi, e46, m54
    Thanks guys, I will do as you say. I'm not going to run it until I get a new clutch fan, so I'll have to update you next week

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    88
    My Cars
    2001 BMW 325xi, e46, m54
    And yeah... Lol... I've got a mix of oem parts and a few of the verboten parts as well ��. The radiator, water pump and ccv are all aftermarket. U know... All the important stuff... But hey all the new hoses are oem and the HG is at least a reputable brand... But yeah I know... Cheap water pump probably a stupid idea ��

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Arlington, VA
    Posts
    9,934
    My Cars
    2018 BMW M240i
    Not stupid, just foolish. Foolish as in false economy. Bleed the system according to Mango’s stickie once the new fan and clutch are installed.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    88
    My Cars
    2001 BMW 325xi, e46, m54
    Noticed today that the clutch fan spins slowly, so I found a new clutch fan today and put it on and it was a lot faster and noticible air flow... So I blead the system a couple times. As far as I'm understanding, just key to run, turn on heater, remove bleed screw and cap and fill slowly until no more air bubbles come from bleed screw hole. Then idle till warm. I let it sit for a while and it did not get hot... I repeated the process again, then took it for a drive and started to get hot again. When I bleed it I let it idle for a good min..

    Do the thermostats come out of the housing on our cars? Or is it one solid piece? Cus it's hot as heck here right now and it would be nice to try running without a thermostat t see if it still gets too hot

    Also I tried revving up yo 4k for 30 seconds to see if it would free any air bubbles up... But still no good.

    Thinking about a new thermostat... Lower radiator hose doesn't really feel hot either... But I do get heat from the heater core.. if the thermostat is bad then wouldnt that stop water from circulating, meaning the heater core would not be getting hot?
    Last edited by Shawnk111; 05-11-2018 at 05:04 PM.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    88
    My Cars
    2001 BMW 325xi, e46, m54
    Did more research online and learned things about thermostats that I did not know. It's said online that if the thermostat is stuck closed, you will get heat but nothing flowing through radiator and therefore still overheating. While it was hot I felt the lower hose and it's cold as could be. So I bought a new thermostat. Gonna be out of town for the weekend. Will install Monday and update u guys.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Aberdeen, NC (yes, again)
    Posts
    23,673
    My Cars
    E39M5, E500 4WD
    Yeah, but.....

    You're not getting the whole picture.. Sure, a stuck closed thermostat will prevent coolant from circulating....so will an air bubble. You can't bleed the cooling system in a minute of idling....if you could, I wouldn't own 16 caps for every model, and a vacuum coolant bleed system, total about $600.

    Here's a decent coolant bleeding procedure:
    http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...8#post28798358

    Most important is that if you use a "manual" method of coolant bleeding, like you're trying to achieve: After you think you've succeeded, drive the car half a mile or a mile, system completely capped and sealed....until the engine is fully warm, NOT letting it go above 3/4. THEN, shut it off, and leave it for the night, without opening the system. Next morning, open the system, and fill to the proper level, and do a drive, until operating temp is reached, then park it again; do not reopen the system until cool. If the coolant level has not receded, you should be done.

    Honestly, I got tired of this whole dance, fifteen years ago, and just use a vacuum fill system every time now, so I know I'm done in ten minutes. (Except Z-4's, by the way, they are, um, special)

    Chris Powell
    Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
    Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
    BMWCCA 274412
    German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    88
    My Cars
    2001 BMW 325xi, e46, m54
    Replaced thermostat problem solved. Since it was getting hot, I couldn't get it to a code scanner,. It once I put the new thermostat in and was sure it wasn't gonna overheat, I took it to AutoZone and used the scanner. It showed codes for thermostat so if I had a scanner to begin with I might have saved some time lol.

    Also have p0369 so I'm gonna try to clean the sensor and see if it helps but otherwise it's running good now

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