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Thread: Puff's "What's A Turbo?" '95 E34 Build Thread

  1. #26
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    Feb 2017
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    1995 BMW 525i/5
    What fuel pump should I be running for this setup? I've seen a lot of Walbro 255s being used, but is a Bosch unit going to be more reliable?

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  2. #27
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    I also picked up a 75C thermostat with a metal thermostat housing. Do I actually need this for this setup? I've read that reducing the opening point for the thermostat can make it run colder (negatively) and I'm not sure if this is relevant since I'm daily driving.

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  3. #28
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    Fun update for today: We're making progress towards removing the engine!

    I took the exhaust off today. Had to move it off the ramps/jacks so that the garage door could close, but this was after the exhaust was already off. Please enjoy a quick video of my exhaustless M50:

    https://drive.google.com/file/d/1WBo...ew?usp=sharing

    In other news, now I can check on the driveshaft components to see what I need to replace. When accelerating from neutral/clutch in, a nice metal on metal clink noise would happen. I've concluded this is likely the flex disc or universal joints.

  4. #29
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    Aug 2009
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    Charleston, SC
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    boosted 540
    Quote Originally Posted by CallMePuff View Post
    What fuel pump should I be running for this setup? I've seen a lot of Walbro 255s being used, but is a Bosch unit going to be more reliable?

    Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
    Not sure if you've addressed this, but if you plan to go e85, that walbro is is going to tap out pretty quick with those 60# injectors. The 450 is only a couple dollars more and worth the head room. Alternatively there are lots of other pumps. I'm running an aeromotive e85 340lph with 42# injectors on my turbo 540 and will run out of injector before i run out of pump.
    540iT...the T is for turbo

  5. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by motorokr718 View Post
    Not sure if you've addressed this, but if you plan to go e85, that walbro is is going to tap out pretty quick with those 60# injectors. The 450 is only a couple dollars more and worth the head room. Alternatively there are lots of other pumps. I'm running an aeromotive e85 340lph with 42# injectors on my turbo 540 and will run out of injector before i run out of pump.
    My current plans only entail pump gas, so I think im good on that front. Are there any downsides to going with the higher capacity pump if I don't use the headroom?

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    Last edited by CallMePuff; 06-25-2018 at 10:18 AM.

  6. #31
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    1995 BMW 525i/5
    The driveshaft is almost off, just need to bang the CV joint bolts out with a hammer. The flex disc and csb don't look terrible yet but I'll likely replace for peace of mind.

    I'm starting to worry that my CV joint is causing the clinky issues as the shaft is able to be rotated slightly while the handbrake is engaged and the car is in gear.

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  7. #32
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    Aug 2009
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    Charleston, SC
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    boosted 540
    Quote Originally Posted by CallMePuff View Post
    My current plans only entail pump gas, so I think im good on that front. Are there any downsides to going with the higher capacity pump if I don't use the headroom?

    Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
    Fair enough. Not really, maybe slightly higher electrical load? They only other thing I can think of would be your fuel pressure regulator might not be able to keep up at low loads. Not sure what the stock 525 regulator is rated for. My stock fpr on the m60 is keeping up with that aeromotive pump though.
    540iT...the T is for turbo

  8. #33
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    Should I be replacing the motor mounts with something aftermarket to stiffen it? Keep in mind this is a daily driver.

  9. #34
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    Feb 2017
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    Hey all!

    Good updates for today.

    The MS3 Pro is functioning, although I only started the car with it for about 3 seconds since I hadn't realized I'd flooded it and was too preoccupied to try it again.

    The drive shaft was pulled and upon inspection looks like I'll need a giubo and csb.

    The tranny and motor were pulled just in time for Independence Day! The motor went off to my local BMW guy today who will be swapping components over to an M52 block with a rebuilt head.

    In the meantime, I went ahead and started cleaning the tranny and engine bay. There's some before/after pictures below, but it's not exactly clean-clean yet.

    Additionally, I ordered a giubo, csb, dust covers, engine mounts, a Stewart high-flow water pump, new idler pulleys, and a coolant reservoir drain plug because mine was leaking.

    Where are you guys ordering your hoses and fittings for oil, vacuum, and charge piping from?

    Snapchat-1687502890.jpgSnapchat-1145177694.jpg00002IMG_00002_BURST20180705172900_COVER.jpg00002IMG_00002_BURST20180705170310.jpgIMG_20180705_201357.jpg
    Last edited by CallMePuff; 07-06-2018 at 12:32 AM.

  10. #35
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    Jan 2017
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    RI
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    1994 325is
    I have been using apt turbo for most hoses and fittings. They have most of what you could need.

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  11. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by drstuess View Post
    I have been using apt turbo for most hoses and fittings. They have most of what you could need.

    Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
    I'll check them out, thank you!

    Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

  12. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by CallMePuff View Post
    I'll check them out, thank you!

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    My autocorrect messed it up, it's ATP Turbo. For intercooler piping I used generic 2.5 and 3 inch Intercooler kits on Amazon. Couplers aren't great, but should be serviceable.

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  13. #38
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    Aug 2009
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    Charleston, SC
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    boosted 540
    If you have any boat shops near you, you can use marine exhaust tubing in place of silicone couplers. More heat resistant and it's less pliable, so not prone to blow outs like most couplers.
    540iT...the T is for turbo

  14. #39
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    Feb 2017
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    1995 BMW 525i/5
    For charge piping, my turbo outlet is 2.5" and both my intercooler flanges are 2.5". I've heard of 2.5" on the hot-side and 3" on the cold. Why is this and is it necessary for my application?

  15. #40
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    Another silly question...

    My manifold/turbo did not come with bolts/nuts/studs/what-have-you to mount the turbo to the manifold. What are we supposed to be using here?

    Bolts/Nuts? Studs/Nuts? I don't think my manifold is threaded at all on the flange. Any material requirements due to the high heat?

  16. #41
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
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    Virginia
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    97' m52 turbo
    Quote Originally Posted by CallMePuff View Post
    Another silly question...

    My manifold/turbo did not come with bolts/nuts/studs/what-have-you to mount the turbo to the manifold. What are we supposed to be using here?

    Bolts/Nuts? Studs/Nuts? I don't think my manifold is threaded at all on the flange. Any material requirements due to the high heat?
    Not really silly.

    I had zero hardware with mine as well, for all of it pretty much. Zero gaskets too

    If you can take your stuff to fastenal they can help you out. What I did

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  17. #42
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    Minnesota eh?
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    If its not threaded you'll need bolts and nuts. Regular class 10.9 or 8.8 bolts are fine. The turbo manifold to turbo will be like a 10mm bolt which you can get at menards. The manifold to head are 7mm, which is kind of a difficult size to find. You can clean up your stock ones in a wire wheel and reuse them, buy new OEM ones like the kit below, or shop around online and buy some M7 bolts.

    https://www.ecstuning.com/b-assemble...xoCFWgQAvD_BwE

    For gaskets the original exhaust manifold gaskets are great and they are reusable. Some people use a metal gasket between the turbo and manifold and some don't. I have heard people say if you smear grease on the flanges before you put it together it will seal it up but I've never tried as I always use a gasket like the one below. They are also reusable.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Garrett-T4-...+gas.TRS0.TSS0


    86 325es, 2.8L m50, S472sxe, MS3pro Ultimate, e85, solid rear axle, 4 link, spool, TH400 trans, Protorque converter, 28x10.5w slicks, zip ties
    Best = 9.43 @ 149.15 mph, 1.30 60 foot 28 psi boost

  18. #43
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    Great, thanks for the help guys. I'll probably just run to menards since it's close to me and grab some stuff, then order some OEM exhaust manifold bolts for manifold-to-block. I think mine are rusted to hell.

    Also ordered a T3 gasket off of Ebay.

    Regarding intercooler piping, is buying a kit off of eBay really the way to go? It seems like if I'm going 2.5" from the turbo to intercooler then 2.5"/3" from the intercooler to throttle that this would get expensive quick and I'd end up with a lot of unused tubing. The guy that will be welding up my exhaust quoted me like $500 for intercooler tubing that's custom-welded, but if I can save money here that'd be nice.

  19. #44
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    ALSO my turbo doesn't have a little port for the wastegate. Should I just put a barbed fitting on the hot side of the IC piping? How is everyone else doing this?

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  20. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by CallMePuff View Post

    Regarding intercooler piping, is buying a kit off of eBay really the way to go? It seems like if I'm going 2.5" from the turbo to intercooler then 2.5"/3" from the intercooler to throttle that this would get expensive quick and I'd end up with a lot of unused tubing. The guy that will be welding up my exhaust quoted me like $500 for intercooler tubing that's custom-welded, but if I can save money here that'd be nice.
    The "kits" on ebay are just a bunch of random bend and couplers that you can blindly hope will fit together to make it from turbo to intercooler. If the path way is fairly simple with only 45 and 90 degree bends needed it might work with some creativity and cutting. I wish you were closer and I would just say bring it over and I'll make them.

    Quote Originally Posted by CallMePuff View Post
    ALSO my turbo doesn't have a little port for the wastegate. Should I just put a barbed fitting on the hot side of the IC piping? How is everyone else doing this?

    Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
    yes that's fine


    86 325es, 2.8L m50, S472sxe, MS3pro Ultimate, e85, solid rear axle, 4 link, spool, TH400 trans, Protorque converter, 28x10.5w slicks, zip ties
    Best = 9.43 @ 149.15 mph, 1.30 60 foot 28 psi boost

  21. #46
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    Feb 2017
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    1995 BMW 525i/5
    Got my intake manifold barb fittings put in for BOV, boost gauge, and MAP sensor. Anything I'm missing here?

    IMG_20180725_180210.jpg

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by someguy2800 View Post
    The "kits" on ebay are just a bunch of random bend and couplers that you can blindly hope will fit together to make it from turbo to intercooler. If the path way is fairly simple with only 45 and 90 degree bends needed it might work with some creativity and cutting. I wish you were closer and I would just say bring it over and I'll make them.
    Yeah that was sort of my conclusion, too. Seems like an expense that isn't needed if I can figure it out another way. And yes, if you were a bit closer we could make that work I need to find someone that can weld aluminum and doesn't want to charge hundreds of dollars lol. The guy that's welding my exhaust does incredible welds though

  22. #47
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    I used ebay piping and it actually worked great for me. The bends really aren't super crazy and probably was the easiest part of my build

    I think I paid like either $100/$150 can't remember could find the auction though. Only thing is the silicone couplers with the ebay tubes are crap. You'll have to get reinforced couplers. But fitment depends on what IC you're using and how you have it mounted:

    (this pic is with the cheap ebay couplers)
    Last edited by 328iFun; 07-26-2018 at 07:00 PM.

  23. #48
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    1995 BMW 525i/5
    Quote Originally Posted by 328iFun View Post
    I used ebay piping and it actually worked great for me. The bends really aren't super crazy and probably was the easiest part of my build

    I think I paid like either $100/$150 can't remember could find the auction though. Only thing is the silicone couplers with the ebay tubes are crap. You'll have to get reinforced couplers. But fitment depends on what IC you're using and how you have it mounted:

    (this pic is with the cheap ebay couplers)
    Is your piping all one size? It seems like every thread I read says that the turbo to IC is 2.5" (my turbo outlet and IC inlet are 2.5") and the IC to TB is 3" (my IC outlet is 2.5" and the throttle body is 3"?)

    If the sizes are different, I can't see it being that cheap.

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  24. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by 328iFun View Post
    Huh?

    Just get a 2.5" to 3.0" silicone elbow for the Intake Side and then run your 3" Intake Tubing all the way to the TB
    https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Per...22+silicone+90
    Attachment 634503
    Yeah that makes sense to me, sorry for the confusion. What I was getting at is that you're basically buying two whole "charge piping kits" at 2.5" and 3" when you'll only end up using half of each.

    Does that make sense?

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  25. #50
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    I guess you really have 3 options (and I have never seen a 2.5" intake side piping on these cars, or has somewhere here done it?)

    1. Try to find a 2.5" to whatever size the m50 TB is INTAKE BOOT (that also has a port on it for the IACV)... I've never seen one
    2. Go to 2.5" out of the IC and use a coupler to 3" and use max psi or whatever boot you want - that normally works/people use
    3. Get a 2.5" to 3" silicone elbow off the IC and run 3" up to the intake

    If you can find a 2.5" boot with a port, great. If not, it'd be cheaper to the buy the tube than to jerry rig a boot or something up. But really anything could be done

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