Is anyone using a pedal box with dual master cylinders and a bias bar?
What kind of setup do you have?
I am considering removing the booster to fix spongy brakes, since the boosters are so expensive new and im not even sure it would fix it and for how long.
I am considering a complete bolt in floor mounted kit like
http://www.obpltd.com/Pedal-Boxes/Tr...Box-OBPBMWL006
Or maybe getting a willwood overhead or floor mount and making a bracket.
There is a bracket sold by garagistic to mount a 2 pedal overhead setup and retain the stock throttle pedal.https://store.garagistic.com/e30-boo...ss-brake-setup. I haven't been able to find anything like it for the e36.
I have seen some brake only dual master pedal brackets but i am concerned that it will be difficult to get all the pedals in an ergonomic position.
I think the advantage of the 3 pedal setup would be that all 3 pedals would already be optimized for ergonomics. The complete bolt in kit would be easiest to install but the willwood kit, i should be able to get the pedals exactly where i want (in theory) but probably a month of playing just to get close and start again (im not the best fabricator).
Does anyone have a setup that they like that i can look at? Or is there a bracket for sale that i am overlooking or has somone made one that they can duplicate and sell to me?
https://www.facebook.com/pg/Massive-...96393107136150
I had one of these for a short while. Never installed it, but it was extremely well made. Lee's website and internet presence is a bit lacking but you can get in touch with him through FB, or email him at the address in his site:
http://www.massivebrakes.com/
I have one of his booster delete kits that I'll be installing when I do the upgrade to the mk60 Teves ABS system from the E46 M3.
Here's my experience.
I have a race-only 328 (not M3). I am required to remove the ABS, and I've always wanted the dual-master setup.
I started with the OPB setup, and just didn't care for the foot position on the floor. I didn't get far enough with it to know if they had selected the correct masters or not.
Next, I tried Lee's fancy dual-master setup to replace the factory master and booster (as Jake suggested above).
After several hours, and several attempts on track, I could never get either the balance correct (rears locking up just after the fronts) nor could I get the car to stop without incredible foot pressure. I tried moving the pushrod up and down the brake pedal, smaller masters, larger masters... I just couldn't get it to work where I felt safe and fast under race conditions.
I have read that one other person on BFc got their system working, but they had an M3. I didn't see them spending much time making it work, so I don't know if they lucked out and picked the proper sizes first, or just didn't try different masters and haven't pushed the car at all.
But seriously, I know you may be frustrated, but changing all that stuff over is probably not going to work like you hope it will. Seems like the easy button, but it is not.
I may go back to Lee's setup some day, but the time I spent on trying to make it work was not worth it, to me anyway.
For you, I would figure out how to bleed the system through the ABS; I understand it's not straightforward.
Just to be clear, my used master and booster off eBay - they do not have any squish in the pedal at all; I can lock up and modulate the brakes any time I like on track.
I put a limiter inline with the rear brakes, and I added the brass caliper bushings. Maybe all that together helped out.
Last edited by CoMZ302; 05-14-2018 at 02:38 PM.
2002 BMW M Roaster.
1998 BMW 328is SCCA E Production road racer.
Readymade for $200 (plus required brake line kit):
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-chase-ba...u-e346bbe~chb/
Neil
I would not suggest using a single circuit master cylinder, because if you have a hydraulic issue you are in pretty big trouble. Sure, if you ran all new lines and religiously maintained the system you probably will be fine... but there's no backup.
Also what's nice about a balance bar set up is that you don't have to rely 100% on the caliper bore sizing for F/R brake bias.
Good points both.
jimmy p.
88 E30 M3 Zinnoberot - street
88 E30 M3 Lachsilber - SCCA SPU
87 E30 M3 Prodrive British Touring Car 2.0 Litre
04 Ford F350 - V10
06 Audi A3 Brilliant Red / 2.0 / DSG
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