hey all, I just took ownership of a 99 323is auto with 192k miles. it was gifted to me from a close friend. the car has a ton of sentimental value to the previous owner and I was flattered to be handed off the torch. I used to own a built e36 325is 5spd that had 300+k miles that had full suspension, cams, and full m3 Vader interior including black headliner and pillars so I'm not new to maintaining an e36's but I am new to a bone stock car. I was looking for advice on where is should focus my restorative efforts?
right off the bat it needs a valve cover gasket and I think a steering guibo as theres a mushy dead spot on center. I think the suspension is bone stock and in need of a refresh but between ecs and turner's refresh pkg I'm overwhelmed; vs building my own refresh.
my goal for this cars is to make it my daily for years to come. I fully believe it can be another 300k mile car. since its automatic my main focus would be cosmetics and suspension. eventually m3 bumpers (m3 wannabe), and suspension wise I'd like to incorporate a bilstien/hr cup kit combo and sways or any other suggestions.
thanks for any input guys
I think your focus on suspension is 100% correct. Between ECS, Tuner, or FCP - a suspension refresh kit should provide wonders. Front and rear, as I suspect both are in need. Monitor your oil usage over the next few weeks, and that should provide info on where to focus next.
Congrats!
James
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Last edited by jmc1590; 05-04-2018 at 08:19 PM.
Step #1, Change all fluids and replace/upgrade every component in the cooling system.
I wouldn't worry about anyone calling your car a M3 wannabe. I have all the kit on mine, as long as you don't plaster M3 logos all over it's cool.
I covered the M3 logos on my side trim.
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thanks, any preferences between the 3 brands of suspension refresh kits? I haven't heard of fop til now. I'll have look them up too.
it has like 3 green bars left til its next service. I was thinking regardless of its what its next interval is to just do a service II when the time comes. per the last owner the ac and cooling had just been refresh.
does anyone have thoughts on an auto transmission service? I did one for my friends e46 a few years ago.. drop the pan/fluid, new filter and refill?
Last edited by dc5boi; 05-05-2018 at 02:13 PM.
try replacing tie rods first. Your steering flex disc might still be ok.
hey guys I tried to get the car smogged today for transfer of title but something weird is going on with the check engine light. I have no way to describe it but to tell the story. so first thing's first the car does pass smog but it was great than 90days and needs a resmog for transfer title.
so back up to last week the car threw a check engine light and it was a vacuum leak at the intake boot and idle air control hose. that was fixed and the check engine light went away.
today I went to one smog place and they immediately denied my car stating the check engine light was burnt out because it did not come on in the key on engine off position. I didn't even get a word in about how it was just on last week. I get a second opinion at another smog place and I go through the whole ordeal and the smog place fails me stating the bulb is burnt out. now I'm confused. so I leave thinking damn guess I do need a new bulb and this is a weird coincident. and yes for some reason the check engine light does not come on in the key on engine off position. I go to work in the afternoon and return to my car at the end of shit at 1am. the car is cold, and has been sitting for 12 hours. I go to warm up the car and behold the check in light is lit up staring back at me at the key on engine off position. I start the car it goes away. I let the car idle for a bit and turn it off. I do this 3 more times before leaving and the check engine light is illuminated each time at the key on engine off position. I drive to the gym 4-5 mile drive. I park at the gym I try it again and the check engine light won't come on anymore at the key on engine off position just like when I failed smog earlier in the day.
I don't get it. I need some guidance. I need to pass smog so I can complete the transfer of title. thanks again everyone
Last edited by dc5boi; 05-09-2018 at 07:08 AM.
Light bulbs burn out. Get a new one for the Check Engine Light.
FCP euro for parts, 100% lifetime warranty.
Do cooling system, and suspension.
While you're there, if you were thinking about doing them in the future, might as well do now:
-Z3 steering rack
-springs/dampers...Cup kit seems overkill for an auto, you could get HR sports with konis and be happy, look good, and good for 100k+
-reinforcements - rear subframe, rear shock mounts, front strut towers, etc.
are you serious? I just said the bulb isn't burnt out. it illuminated when the car was cold. but by the time I got to the gym it wouldn't light up anymore.
thanks for the reply. isn't a cup kit a spring n shock combo? or have I been using the term incorrectly? I do plan of doing HR sports springs with bilstein b8's.
and I do plan on addressing everything mentioned.
after sorting out this transfer of title and smog, I plan to address all the bushings using turner's rear bushing kit and ecs' front refresh. and the appropriate reinforcements
Last edited by dc5boi; 05-09-2018 at 02:35 PM.
[QUOTE=dc5boi;30018711]are you serious? I just said the bulb isn't burnt out. it illuminated when the car was cold. but by the time I got to the gym it wouldn't light up anymore.
Sorry, I didn't read it carefully enough.
[QUOTE=dc5boi;30018711]are you serious? I just said the bulb isn't burnt out. it illuminated when the car was cold. but by the time I got to the gym it wouldn't light up anymore.
I think you should check the bulb afterall. Is it seated properly? Perhaps it works in certain temperature conditions and not in other conditions? I would just change it as it costs virtually nothing, and take a look at the contacts, and give them a little grind if needed to ensure a better contact.
If that doesn't solve it, then there might be something wrong with the DME or the cabling or connectors in between DME and instrument cluster.
Another tip: If you want to put 300K+ miles on this car, the automatic transmission might be the weak spot. I think a proper flushing/revision (+ filter replacement, new oil etc) by a good quality automatic transmission expert would help with the longevity.
Good luck!
P.S. Perhaps a good idea to do a cylinder compression test and a pressure test of the cooling system, to make sure the engine and cooling system are in perfect shape, before starting to invest money in the car?
Last edited by ed323i; 05-12-2018 at 05:42 AM.
My odometer bulb is not bad either, but sometimes I need to hit the dash to get it to illuminate. My HVAC dash display goes out too but I know where the heat knob is. (Think about it....the bulb is not bad it just disconnects at the worst times like at SMOG test or when the engine oil pressure goes out)
Last edited by gc325is; 05-16-2018 at 10:35 PM.
No better mod than a quicker, Z3 steering rack IMO. It really helps freshen these cars' feel. Stock racks blow.
LFCA, LCFA bushings, new steering rack, steering rack universal joint to replace steering shaft Guibo (see below), new springs and struts, entire rear bushing set.
steering shaft Guibo upgrade/replacement:
https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_In...RoC-bAQAvD_BwE
Basically, if it's rubber, its bad.
Door seals are the big question as they are creeping up to $700/set now. I sprung and replaced mine
- - - Updated - - -
Just buy a pack of 20 bulbs and replace the entire lot behind the cluster. It's nice and serviceable.
i went with HR and Koni's after all my research. Koni adjustables will need to be cut which wasnt hard but im no novice and up for most technical challanges. the Bilstein's will be great too. Im doing new radiator, hoses, water pump (metal) its around 500$. Suspenson was above $1100. Id also suggest new belts/ tensioner which isnt much. keep it as stock as possible.
Estoril
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