Also I did forget to clean out the dipstick could this be why it's still smoking? I guess i should maybe start doing a compression test?
I have a question concerning your exhaust video,
can you describe what it smells like?
1.An overly rich, unburnt fuel smell.
2.A sweet type of coolant steam smell.
3.A burning oil, burnt tar type of smell.
I have been having a hard time with this one. I'm pretty certain it's burnt oil but sometimes I kind of smell fuel. I took the sparks out to inspect again and they are soiled with oil again so I'm pretty certain it's oil. It's being burnt all in the engine. The smoke comes out of the oil filler cap. And the cylinder if there's no plug in it. I've read in a few places that valve stem seals will cause oil to leak into the cylinder but I have also heard it could be the poorly designed m54 piston ring.
I would definitely clean the dipstick tube,
as that is the only path for oil to return to pan,
along with replacing the CCV hose that connects to the tube.
Since you have the misfires along with smoke,
it may be the rings, so take a look at this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Vo4fm0JDPY
And also this one, be sure to read the comments section,
read the post made by owner of the video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XmKN1LrtlA0
As he recommended, replace with new o-ring,
after you clean tube.
Tip:Use the remainder of the cleaner to fill the tube,
and let it sit overnight, same as the engine!
okay AcDelco and new dipstick o ring will be ordered tonight I'll try this before assuming anything worse just yet. Thanks for the advice and help man, hope we can get this figured out.
Glad to help,
hopefully you'll have a purring, non-smoking engine soon.
IMAG0199.jpg
So I got the o ring and it was actually cheaper for me to get the BMW upper engine cleanerwill try this weekend. If this doesn't work I found an engine with 126,000km on it. Thinking I should jump on that opinions?
Have a look over here before you condemn the motor -> https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...CV-replacement
Yes, it will be a long read. I have flirted with the idea of doing this, however my motor only uses about a quart about every 5-6k, so I haven't made up my mind to do it yet.
Darin
Current:
16 220i Active Tourer Platinsilver MET (C08)/Dakota Black (PDSW), P7ACA, P7LDA, P7LHA, P9BDA, 6sp Manual - Wife's new toy!
05 325it Electric Red(438)/Gray(N6TT) ZCW, ZSP 5sp Manual Back set cover, trunk mat, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield, and mud flaps! Mr. Wagon My new Winter car.
05 M3 Imolarot II(405)/Gray(N5TT) ZCW, ZPP 6sp Manual C.F. Lip, CSL diffuser, SSK, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield and a trunk liner! Mr. Go_Fast Stored for the Winter
Past:
95 318is Montreal Blue Met (297)/Beige(K1SN) RIP, killed by an Idiot.
84 M535i gray market Burgandy Rot Met/Black Leather Lowered by Intrax on bilies, poly everywhere, B&B cat back system, K&N, and a hitch! Da Beast - Still running w/400k+!
91 316i euro Tizianrot/Gray cloth - E-36 w/M-40 RIP, but great on gas! Best was 38 MPG
82 528i euro Saphire Blue Met/Blue Leather RIP
79 525 euro Green/Green RIP
79 318 Silver/Black - The first one that got it all started
M-Flight Member
Thanks for the read Darin. It is long but very informative, theres so much information in that thread that sometimes you can get lost ahaha.
I Have been so busy this month that I haven't managed to get to the car. I keep it stored at my fathers house and I live about an hour away, and unfortunately have to take the train right now aha! but I have every intention on keeping you guys updated with the build. Once this is all figured out I'll probably starty up a new thread for some other plans.
I can for sure verify that it's the oil causing the misfire, 4-6 spark plugs were soaked in brand new oil again and those are the cylinders I'm getting the misfire on, I put the upper engine cleaner in the cylinders tonight, hoping that she will be purring after a start tomorrow. The new o ring will be going in as well as fixing a few minor vacuum leaks.
So I went out this morning to the car to take the upper engine cleaner out. I cranked the car without the sparkplugs 5 times 5 seconds each then used a shop vac to get the rest. I noticed that when I put the hose of the shop Vac over cylinder 1. it gets vacuum in cylinder 4, and vice versa./ Cylinder 4 is where I am getting a constant misfire so this is kind of scary. all the cylinders should be airtight and not giving me any vacuum correct? why is air leaking into 4 from 1?
The descriptions in your very first post had me suspect a headgasket, but you dismissed overheating.
With this new development I suggest both a compression test and cylinder leakdown tests.
Thanks MIk, I'm really at the point where I think I'm just going to do a motor swap. I've poured about 700$ into this engine Now with no improvement, another 50$ and I would have had a lower km engine that isn't doing this.
However after cranking it over again I used the shop vac again and when the piston moved position I wasn't getting the vacuum leak through the cylinder anymore. It seems like after cleaning the upper engine I had gained power as well. But it's still smoking under acceleration. The smoke almost completely goes away in idle but as soon as you give it throttle it smokes again. It doesn't overheat, I get no mayo, another thing I've noticed is if I rev the engine to about 4500rpm or higher some fluid, which I'm thinking is oil as it has a dark colour starts spraying the entire engine bay. Two of my valve cover bolts in the front of the engine are missing right.now as the studs snapped and I haven't gotten around to putting the new ones in, it causes a huge vacuum leak you can herar so I imagine the oil is coming from that but I'm not positive. If you run the car to 2000rpm and keep it there it will constantly back fire. Just pop, after pop it doesn't stop. It almost sounds like there is hot oil dripping inside the intake as well. You hear a pretty constant "tink" coming from the intake area and almost echos. The engine has more power as it bounces up the tech way faster then before but I find the more I run it the worse it runs. If anyone has any last ideas before I bite the bullet and buy the new engine and begin that journey please feel free to chime in.
I finally got to reading alost that whole thread and I think I'm going to try the hose to the back of the intake Dworthy. however by the sounds of that thread the smoke they are experiencing is pretty minor. Mine just keeps getting worse and worse its very thick now when I accelerate. I believe its the valve stem seals
So I took apart the engine again last night and silly me noticed one of the CCV hoses wasn't installed it was the one you twist I must not have got in on properly. I reinstalled today and after running the engine for an hour am no longer getting misfire codes, however Now get lean codes on both banks and it's still smoking from the exhaust a lot. The engine sounds much better and seems to idle fine and run okay. The engine light was off for almost that entire hour. I feel like I'm making progress. The codes it's throwing now are still the p1429, p0171, p0174, and p2400 now. I think the p2400 might be wiring I mixed up somewhere?
Seems like this thread has gone a bit dead, I feel like I've been making progress and could use some more advice from the pros! I installed the 02pilot MOD the car still smokes but I'm not really getting any misfire codes anymore. A new problem has come up and I'm getting p0171 and p0174 Now consistently. Screenshot_20180916-190937.jpg
The high fuel trims and lean mixture codes indicate an intake leak.
Has an intake smoke test been performed with a professional smoke machine to locate all intake leaks?
This is what I was leaning towards too as I noticed the boot was also repaired with silicone the PO LOVED to use silicon to repair things. the silicone wore off and the little boot that goes to the idle air control valve is full of cracks. So I'm not getting constant misfires anymore seems like the misfire goes away when the engine heats up it still smokes from the exhaust but I'm starting to think I just need to give it a long hard drive to clear out all the stuff thats still in there. I am going to check again this week if theres fresh oil on the plug still but I also noticed a lot of oil pooling in cylinder 6 intake port when I re did the CCV this time.
I am aware of a few vaccum leaks that need attending to at this point, I am guessing once those are repaired the fuel trims will go back to normal.
Last edited by Brickk; 09-17-2018 at 01:51 AM.
I've brought the smoke down to valve stem seals I believe. I'm in the process of getting at them to inspect. Im leaning towards valve steam seals due to the oil pooling in the intake port. The fact that it only seems to be bank 2 that's getting oil in the combustion chamber, it misfires on cold start and stops when warm, and the smoke seems to go away if left idling for awhile but as soon as I give it any throttle it smoke screens the back window. So I will post pictures of my valves and seals once I can see them and update the thread. Hopefully this is my problem and will help other people who run into this issue.
Oil can pool in the intake ports due to worn rings too, this allows excessive cylinder leakage and pushes oil through the crankcase ventilation system. The oil separator can handle normal amounts of blowby but if your engine is worn it will be overwhelmed.
I would suggest you try disconnecting the crank breather hose from the valve cover. Run a hose to the valve cover and the other end to a waste oil pan. Plug off the line going to the crankcase vent valve. Let it run like this for a while to burn off what you have in there and see how it does on the smoke. Also observe how much ventilation you have coming from the hose off of the valve cover. A tight engine won't have a lot of blowby. If that hose is blowing a lot of vapor and oil with it your rings are toast.
Usually the return hose to the oil pan goes bad from the CCV.
I ended up just have g the car towed to my local shop. He's going to preform leak down test and compression test etc. If it does end up being rings do you guys suggest replacing the rings and doing a bit of an overhaul to my current engine or should I just replace the engine?
Just replace the engine. Good used long blocks are plentiful, its a much cheaper and easier option.
You could try running Rotella T6 in the crankcase for a few thousand miles. It does a good job cleaning up carbon deposits and can unstick rings. The B30 seems prone to sticking rings. Engine might be okay, just dirty.
I have tried the upper engine cleaner trick for the rings to try and get them to stop sticking, it didnt work which is why I started leaning towards the valves. however this is a useful tip I will try if it is the rings. I have also heard using a thicker oil reduces the oil getting past the ring.
Bookmarks