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Thread: cranks for days, won't start. INPA 113 Camshaft sensor

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    cranks for days, won't start. INPA 113 Camshaft sensor

    I'm seeking some help on getting '03 540i running.

    Here's a short summary of how i arrived at this point. I pulled the engine to do the Timing Chain Guides. While i was removing the motor, i forgot to disconnect the crankshaft position sensor so it got torn up. I also changed the rear main seal. Fast forward to a completed reassembly with new CPS installed. The motor will crank forever w/o firing up. INPA shows a single error, 113 Camshaft Sensor.

    I pulled the new CPS and noticed that it's grinding and at a strange angle. Did i not align the flywheel properly or did i get the wrong CPS?

    https://ibb.co/myrTg7
    Last edited by Doc325i; 05-02-2018 at 09:01 AM.

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    The crank sensor need to have a space between it and the teeth on the flywheel, there are shims available to set the gap.
    Hard to say if your flywheel isn't bolted on in the correct orientation with the crank. Did you observe which hole the alignment ring was in on the crank and its position on the flywheel?

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    I remember marking the orientation of the flywheel with a red marker before removal but i'm only 85% sure i looked for this on reassembly. I just noticed the shim on realoem but i've never had to use a shim.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Doc325i View Post
    I pulled the engine to do the Timing Chain Guides.
    <sigh> Jets fans. Did you remove the transmission through the sunroof hole also? :P

    Quote Originally Posted by Doc325i View Post
    forgot to disconnect the crankshaft position sensor so it got torn up... 113 Camshaft Sensor.
    You got mucho terminology problems there, Fireman Ed.

    While Jim's remarks may STILL apply, because you STILL might be grinding your sensor (esp if you didn't realize and tossed shims w the old part)...

    CPS is a crap acronym, even tho' we all use it all the time, since all these modern motors have BOTH (crank/cam)shaft sensors.

    113 on ME7 indeed is a camshaft sensor error. VERY common for a timing chain job to throw those errors. It usually means either:
    • Cams in general are actually mis-timed (you didn't pull enough slack/tension through the chains, AND/OR, didn't have VANOS fully 'slammed shut' during the re-timing)
    • Shutter wheels are mis-timed (you didn't use jigs properly or they had slop in them)
    • Shutter wheels got inadvertantly bent (we've had a couple of those around here lately)


    Again - pay attention to Jim's feedback, because you may need to fix up both sensors, but for sure you've got a cam sensor problem being reported and to deal with.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by Doc325i View Post
    I remember marking the orientation of the flywheel with a red marker before removal but i'm only 85% sure i looked for this on reassembly. I just noticed the shim on realoem but i've never had to use a shim.
    Errr.... did you possibly attempt to do this job without timing tools and locking the crank? I can't imagine so otherwise you'd have double cam position sensor errors... but just want to check.
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    Quote Originally Posted by geargrinder View Post
    <sigh> Jets fans. Did you remove the transmission through the sunroof hole also? :P



    You got mucho terminology problems there, Fireman Ed.


    While Jim's remarks may STILL apply, because you STILL might be grinding your sensor (esp if you didn't realize and tossed shims w the old part)...


    CPS is a crap acronym, even tho' we all use it all the time, since all these modern motors have BOTH (crank/cam)shaft sensors.

    113 on ME7 indeed is a camshaft sensor error. VERY common for a timing chain job to throw those errors. It usually means either:
    • Cams in general are actually mis-timed (you didn't pull enough slack/tension through the chains, AND/OR, didn't have VANOS fully 'slammed shut' during the re-timing)
    • Shutter wheels are mis-timed (you didn't use jigs properly or they had slop in them)
    • Shutter wheels got inadvertantly bent (we've had a couple of those around here lately)




    Again - pay attention to Jim's feedback, because you may need to fix up both sensors, but for sure you've got a cam sensor problem being reported and to deal with.

    - - - Updated - - -





    Errr.... did you possibly attempt to do this job without timing tools and locking the crank? I can't imagine so otherwise you'd have double cam position sensor errors... but just want to check.
    lmao...these Jets jokes are hilarious. Cut 'em some slack, they had a decent draft.


    I'm 100% sure i was shim-less. Only the shaft which protrudes into the bell housing was damaged, i had to remove the base w/my 5mm allen. no shim present.


    Is it possible i tensioned the chain too tight? I wondered if i was overdoing it but figured better tight than slack.

    Does the 113 code hint at a problem with both banks. I would think i would get two individual codes, one for each bank if this was the case.

    This car was sitting for over 2 years with bad guides, no shortcuts taken. I purchased the timing tools from G.A.S
    Last edited by Doc325i; 05-02-2018 at 12:39 PM.

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    Yes there are codes for each bank. Google says 113 = bank 1. First easy step would be check the connector which should be easy - it goes right on the electrical box.

    You did catch that when timing the shutter wheels, you not only flip the tool for one side, but it also goes on the "top" on one side, and the "bottom" on the other? I gotta figure some people miss that, especially since otherwise the tools are pretty easy and self explanatory...

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    In my timing kit the tools illustrated above are conveniently labeled. 1-4 and 5-8 respectively. I'm certain i used them properly. However, you raise an interesting point above in terms of the connector. It's been so long since i've been in this engine bay that i went primarily on length of wire to determine where each connector was to be re-installed. I guess it's possible i have that connector in the wrong spot but that would mean a minimum of two connectors would be out of place with only one code displaying.

    I do have an idle connector as i opted for the 88 degree thermostat during this project. i'll look it over in a few. I used this youtube video to jog my memory.

    https://youtu.be/A2nA34IiTvA
    Last edited by Doc325i; 05-02-2018 at 07:28 PM. Reason: corrected typo

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    Doc - yes sure, they are labeled for 1-4 and 5-8, but the top/bottom thing is DIFFERENT THING and IN ADDITION to that... are you sure you did the other part too?

    On 5-8 the red arm needs to sit close to horizonal (what I've been calling 'bottom' or 'below' the wheel... they call it the 'outboard' side of the wheel...) and on 1-4 the red arm sits close to vertical (what I've been calling 'on top', they call it the 'inboard' side of the wheel...)

    Could you have put the 1-4 on on in the correct front/back direction (1-4 showing, fine...) but used the wrong pin? The more instinctive thing is to put both in the same orientation, but that's not how they work...

    Kinda flaw on their part not showing one picture with both sides fitted to make the difference really clear... in the pix, also because their picture angles are a bit loosey goosey, it doesn't jump out at you.

    Doing that would explain why only one cam code, and the shutter would for sure be off far enough the DME would not fire.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by Doc325i View Post
    In my timing kit the tools illustrated above are conveniently labeled. 1-4 and 5-8 respectively. I'm certain i used them properly. However, you raise an interesting point above in terms of the connector. It's been so long since i've been in this engine bay that i went primarily on length of wire to determine where is connector was to be re-installed. I guess it's possible i have that connector in the wrong spot but that would mean a minimum of two connectors would be out of place with only one code displaying.

    I do have an idle connector as i opted for the 88 degree thermostat during this project. i'll look it over in a few. I used this youtube video to jog my memory.

    https://youtu.be/A2nA34IiTvA
    I don't think there's really a connector mistake you can make in this case, due to gender and wire lengths etc.

    EFF it, I just made a picture of the thing I'm tryin' to learn you about above...

    I'm tired of typing 5 minutes about the topic every single time and having people TL;DR not apply enough brain cells to understand the issue.

    This is what G.A.S. should have on their website to make it painfully clear. It is what their pictures show but because of crappy angles and being close ups etc. its easy to miss. The jig does not go on mirror-symmetrically, it goes on the right side of the wheel in both cases.

    Last edited by geargrinder; 05-02-2018 at 03:31 PM.
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    Bump - hey Doc, do you think you did the correct orientation per my pic above?
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    Let me start by saying thanks for taking the time. The image above really drove home your point.
    You were spot on. I did instinctively misalign bank 1 the opposite of bank 2. Last night i undid bank 1 and placed the vanos timing place in the correct spot. After I got everything back together I was unable to get it going. As soon as I turned the key to the on position I saw the dreaded ENGINE FAILSAFE. I didn’t go any further. I currently have 6 INPA errors, all relating to either the Throttle assembly or the pedal assembly. It was super late when i buttoned everything up so i called it a night. I’m suspecting the codes are due to a weak battery. That’s where i am currently.


    Side note: i wish I remembered how to add images!
    Last edited by Doc325i; 05-04-2018 at 11:45 AM.

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    Nice. I mean, hassle, but, great to find the problem.

    I'm guessing you just have maybe a plug/connector problem at this point, since that wasn't there before. MAYBE weak battery, that'd be great if it was. Keep us updated. Hopin' for the best.
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    Just an FYI to help with the commonly misused CPS acronym used by many to represent the CRANKshaft position sensor and th CAMshaft position sensor.

    The correct acronym for the "crank" and "cam" shaft position sensors are:
    • CKS = CRANKshaft position sensor
    • CMS = CAMshaft position sensor


    ...now, if we could only get everyone to use the correct acronyms.
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    I believe i have the timing down but i can't seem to figure out this flywheel orientation. When i place the flywheel on the rear main seal's dowel, there's no way the opening(missing teeth area) in the flywheel is situated near where my Crank Position Sensor sits on the bell housing. any ideas what i'm doing wrong?



    https://ibb.co/kePbuS
    Last edited by Doc325i; 05-07-2018 at 04:21 PM.

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    Doc, don't worry about the teeth the flywheel sensor uses. As long as the flywheel is mounted to the crank in the CORRECT position you should be OK.

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    thanks Jim.

    I am going to align the dowel on the hole illustrated below and start to button it back up.
    to confirm, i don't need to see this missing teeth area when i pull the crank sensor with the engine at TDC?

    https://ibb.co/k0vPES

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    I've been away for a few and only this week got a chance to revisit this. Thanks to the help of you guys I have everything back together with the motor timed correctly.
    However, I still have a no start condition. The motor cranks but produces ENGINE FAILSAFE error without starting. I do have a few INPA codes i could use some help with:

    117 DK- potentiometer
    118 Throttle-valve potentiometer 1
    119 Throttle- valve potentiometer 2

    230 Pedal-travel
    232 Pedal-travel potentiometer 2

    of note, the connector going to the throttle body did take a hit.
    how likely related are these codes to the amateurish temporary reconnection i've made to the throttle body's connector?



    https://ibb.co/bLM3FT
    Last edited by Doc325i; 06-23-2018 at 06:41 AM.

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    any insight?

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    Hard to tell if all these TB wire colors match up from looking at the pic.
    If the engine is cranking the battery probably has a decent charge so you can rule that out.
    I'd clear all the codes then turn the key to position 2 for 30-45 seconds, don't attempt to start the engine.
    This will make the TB open and close so the DME can store the TB position vs voltage from the pot inside the TB.
    You will hear the TB making some noise when it's doing its thing.
    Next turn the key off.
    Now try to start it.
    Report back.

    Jet had a decent draft? Was it a Schlitz or Old Milwaukee??

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    Quote Originally Posted by Doc325i View Post
    I've been away for a few and only this week got a chance to revisit this. Thanks to the help of you guys I have everything back together with the motor timed correctly.
    However, I still have a no start condition. The motor cranks but produces ENGINE FAILSAFE error without starting. I do have a few INPA codes i could use some help with:

    117 DK- potentiometer
    118 Throttle-valve potentiometer 1
    119 Throttle- valve potentiometer 2

    230 Pedal-travel
    232 Pedal-travel potentiometer 2

    of note, the connector going to the throttle body did take a hit.
    how likely related are these codes to the amateurish temporary reconnection i've made to the throttle body's connector?
    That IS your problem. Those are a mess!! The ECU is super fussy about throttle body resistance. Absolutely will FAILSAFE if it thinks anything at all is wrong w the TB. Even the cracks in the wires before your twisted mess could be causing issues. Idcut those wires way way back to clean insulation. Splice in a junkyard pigtail if need be.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by JimLev View Post
    Hard to tell if all these TB wire colors match up from looking at the pic.
    I thought this too.
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    Doc, for years I'd get the Failsafe randomly, maybe once every 6 months then about 18 months ago it was happening every day. The engine would almost die. I'd shut it off and restart it then it would run fine until the next Failsafe.
    I replaced the TB connector, pins, and wiring. Knock on wood, no more codes.

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    grr....the heat faded wire colors are barely identifiable!!!

    I've checked a few yards for a replacement connector, nothing.
    I recall reading a thread years ago on potentially upgrading to a bigger bore, it had replacement connectors, possibly from ECS in it. I just can't seem to locate a new connector.

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    I think I have the connector and pin info....somewhere in the garage.
    I bought the parts from BMW.
    If I forget to post the info in a day or two shoot me a reminder.

  23. #23
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    Doc, here ya go.
    TB connector is p/n on my connector is 61 13 8 366 590 which may be superceeded by 61 13 8 366 594.
    Pins p/n 61 13 8 383 300
    Pins with wires I think are 61 13 0 006 665.
    Good luck.

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    Thank you kind Sir.
    much appreciated.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Doc325i
    I'm back looking for some help, hard to believe but i haven't sorted out this no-start issue yet. Until a couple days ago I just haven't had the time. I swapped out the throttle body connector with a junkyard unit, re-calibrated the the throttle and reset the adaptations but i'm still getting those codes. I'm not sure where to turn next.
    Doc - replying here for obv reasons (more smarter peoples).

    To be clear you're saying you're still getting FAILSAFE and getting:

    117 DK- potentiometer
    118 Throttle-valve potentiometer 1
    119 Throttle- valve potentiometer 2

    230 Pedal-travel
    232 Pedal-travel potentiometer 2
    Is that correct?

    How far back did you cut back that throttle body harness? Those wires were all cracked well beyond where the connector was. If those are cracked down inside the sheathing someplace it might still be causing your problem.

    Also did you ever look at the DME electrical connectors? Are those all clean - not contaminated or corroded?
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