01 E38 M62TU Upper Oil Pan

[Imissmyvet]

I completed my timing chain guides and cooling system overhaul. When I removed the lower timing cover, the upper oil pan gasket ripped, (imagine that). I used RTV to seal it back up and reassembled everything. It is leaking. I guess I am going to have to regasket the pan. Does anyone have a DIY for this project? It looks as though it is quite the job. But I dont do leaks. Especially not on my 92k E38. Please help.

[Mayorchuck]

Some have had success cutting the new gasket to replace the section that is exposed, putting gasket maker where the old meets the new. I don't know of a DIY but I think it's in the Bentley. It's one of the toughest DIY's there is for the E38. Only one that comes to mind the guy pulled the engine and transmission to do the job.

[Imissmyvet]

Chuck,

Unfortunately Bentley doesnt cover the upper. Just the lower. Any suggestions on the best gasket maker?

[Mayorchuck]

Check with the E39 guys. I thinks it's in that Bentley. Same engine. If not, I've never seen a DIY myself. Only work-arounds like I mentioned and those who just live with it.

[bmwdirtracer]

Victor Reinz Anthracite, or Toyobond, or Permatex Ultra Grey. If this happened to me, I think I'd try the cut and splice trick Chuck suggested, or I'd live with it. You do know that the M62 is an incredibly leaky motor, I hope. Have you checked where the upper and lower timing covers and the block, and the heads all meet?

If you're seriously planning to replace the upper oil pan gasket, you're going to have to, at the very least, raise the engine and drop the subframe. Even then, while I've done many oil pan gaskets, engine in car, this one's going to be very difficult.

Just checked Alldata: 8.2 hours.....for a pro, with every tool, and a lift, and an engine hanger, and pole jacks, and.... You'll need a professional engine hanger, which uses the top fender edges to support and lift the engine. You'll also need a lift for the car. You need to lower the subframe a bunch....you'll need pole jacks to hold the subframe.

Seriously, my friend, I'd have to say you don't want to try this at home. I won't tell you it CAN'T be done in your driveway with an engine hoist and rolling jacks, but if my best friend asked me to do it this way, I'd tell him to go take a flying fk at the moon.

[White94RX]

Yeah, there's no way in hell I'd try and tackle an upper oil pan gasket anywhere other than my shop, on my lift.

[JimLev]

When I did my chain guides the gasket broke into 3 pieces. At the time I used Hylomar, that was maybe 8 years ago. No leaks. Hylomar isn't easy to find, I had to order it on line.
Since then I've found Permatex Permashield #85420 which can be found at auto parts stores.
Both are very good, you need to follow directions and let the solvent evaporate before mating the parts back together.
#85420 is also fuel resistant.

[niklecce123]

I don't like to circle back to old threads, but I just want to confirm that Permax #85420 that JimLev suggested has worked very well over the last 5 months since I completed my timing job. There is zero weeping. I left the old gasket on (I was lucky it didn't rip or come off with the lower timing cover) and applied a thin layer of permatex. Worked great.