1985 635CSi manual 5 speed.
I'm trying to use my Motiv pressure bleeder to bleed the clutch. I can only find 1 master cylinder for the brake. Is there only one, because after pressurizing, nothing is coming out of the slave cylinder?
What am I either missing or doing wrong?
Thanks
Mike Drives:
BMW's
E24 - 635CSiA - (1) 1985 (US)
E24 - 635CSi - (1) 1985 (EC)
E31 - 850iA - (1) 1991 (Black)
E31 - 850iA - (1) 1991 (Calypso Red)
E32 - 740iA - (1) 1994
E32 - 750iA - (1) 1990 (Not an "L") (EC German National)
E32 - 735iL - (2) 1990
E32 - 750iL - (1) 1990
E38 - 740iLA - (2) (1) 1997 & (1) 1998
E38 - 750iLA - (1) 1998
E38 - 740iA - (1) 2000 "Short Sport"
E39 - 528iA - (2) - 2000 & (1) 1997
Also:
2015 Ram 3500 Dually, Cumins 6.7, Std.Cab. Long box 4x4 (To haul all this junk when necessary)
2014 Dodge Dart Rallye (Daily Driver)
2007 Mercedes Benz CL600 (Brabus SV12S)
Mercedes Benz SL's - (1) (2002) & (1) 1999 500 - (1) 1999 600
1967 Buick Riviera (2)
The master cylinder for the clutch is in the foot well, hidden by the pedal brackit. It uses the brake reservoir for it's supply.
Although I have had mixed luck pressurizing from above, folks have had better luck pressurizing from below, i.e. applying pressurized fluid at the slave cylinder and watching for bubbles and color change in the main reservoir. A reverse bleed so to speak. This works because of the configuration of clutch components.
Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk
The key is to add enough fluid so that the reservoir is full. Then unbolt the slave from the trans. Manually push the rod in and out 10 or so times until it gets very very stiff.
This bleeds air from the unit. Once the air is out, it;s a matter of getting fluid into the clutch master. Usually you can do this by pumping the pedal after the above step. It is self bleeding and will pump up if you start to get any pedal.
Well, after I freaked out yesterday, I dove back in and got it going.
I opened the bleeder screw and pushed down on the pedal, then closed the bleeder screw and raised the pedal back up so as not to reintroduce more air into the system. I then re-opened the bleeder, fluid began coming out and it was self bleeding from that point on. Did not have to push the pedal at all.
Thanks to everyone.
Mike Drives:
BMW's
E24 - 635CSiA - (1) 1985 (US)
E24 - 635CSi - (1) 1985 (EC)
E31 - 850iA - (1) 1991 (Black)
E31 - 850iA - (1) 1991 (Calypso Red)
E32 - 740iA - (1) 1994
E32 - 750iA - (1) 1990 (Not an "L") (EC German National)
E32 - 735iL - (2) 1990
E32 - 750iL - (1) 1990
E38 - 740iLA - (2) (1) 1997 & (1) 1998
E38 - 750iLA - (1) 1998
E38 - 740iA - (1) 2000 "Short Sport"
E39 - 528iA - (2) - 2000 & (1) 1997
Also:
2015 Ram 3500 Dually, Cumins 6.7, Std.Cab. Long box 4x4 (To haul all this junk when necessary)
2014 Dodge Dart Rallye (Daily Driver)
2007 Mercedes Benz CL600 (Brabus SV12S)
Mercedes Benz SL's - (1) (2002) & (1) 1999 500 - (1) 1999 600
1967 Buick Riviera (2)
Glad to hear you fixed it. I found that reverse bleeding works best for those clutch slaves. Modify an oil squirt can with some brake bleeding hose. I borrowed that trick from my motorcycle mechanic. It tends to be messy, but usually primes the system.
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