Eventually will like to remove the non-used plate on the far right (not modify the original) and make/get another plate to have a female USB power there. Any suggestions for doing this? I saw one person who wasn't happy with his first try, but I'm not sure which is the version2 or whether there are any further suggestions.
I was going to do a couple charging ports, but next to the OBD port, and steal power from there... also, from experience, using a USB charger in the cigarette lighter, there's too little space in that area given shifter (5MT)... so having the cables in the passenger foot well was my first take...
... though have been eyeing that same unused panel for a couple-three LEDs to indicate if radiator or return hose temp sensors are triggered - one each for hi and lo temp in rad and one for return hose sensor.
here is your solution.
20151026_150046_2.jpg 20151112_133852.jpg
Niche Motoring
Maddog
When I added a USB power port, I scavenged a cigar lighter USB charger and spliced it into the cigar lighter wiring. After running a short male-male USB cable to the rear of the console, I used this:
http://www.miniinthebox.com/usb-3-0-...FV6HswodIU0Irg
since the blanks that aren't the rear window defroster switch in a '98 are narrow. I have to hold the blank into the switch plate because the connector holds the plug so well. If I were to have added a USB port to the front of the console, I would have used:
http://www.l-com.com/usb-usb-adapter-a-a-black
Last edited by rasmuw; 04-25-2018 at 01:31 AM.
Wayne
1998 M Roadster
1994 Honda ST1100--sold
2017 Yamaha FJR1300ES
Which wire in the car is used to power this switch and can you give some details on making the connection? I am not interested in actual connectivity to my audio system, I just want power.
Kelvin
Thanks all for the faceplate suggestions, but are there any electronics suggestions?
These all seem to max out at a rating of 3A and all seem to be the same design sold under different names. This is one has a unique female USB A:
https://www.amazon.com/HOMREE-Converter-Voltage-Regulator-Standard/dp/B01MA49MEA/ref=sr_1_9?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1524664728&sr =1-9&keywords=usb&th=1
I tapped into the wiring to the cigar lighter. Note that you need to adjust the power with a converter, else you might fry your phone. 5.0 volts for most devices, I think. I bought a cigar lighter converter, took the shell off, and hard-wired it into the circuit leading the the USB port.
Wayne
1998 M Roadster
1994 Honda ST1100--sold
2017 Yamaha FJR1300ES
Do I want #8 or #9 to make the hole in for my non-M?
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=51_2369
I have one of the inexpensive 3 amp ones, bought on eBay for much less than Amazon.
It works well, the power conversion box is robust and well sealed, and it is easy to mount.
It doesn't come with screws, and you'll need to cut a hole yourself. Multiple re-heated cuts with a hot Xacto blade works. You will need to be careful.
I have one of the inexpensive 3 amp ones, bought on eBay for much less than Amazon.
It works well, the power conversion box is robust and well sealed, and it is easy to mount.
It doesn't come with screws, and you'll need to cut a hole yourself. Multiple re-heated cuts with a hot Xacto blade works. You will need to be careful.Are you referring to something like this?I tapped into the wiring to the cigar lighter. Note that you need to adjust the power with a converter, else you might fry your phone. 5.0 volts for most devices, I think. I bought a cigar lighter converter, took the shell off, and hard-wired it into the circuit leading the the USB port.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Buck-Conver...pYzLfEouNEz1aQ
Kelvin
Similar, but hard-wired.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Car-Charger...g/111411434790
The telephone connector is conveniently nearby with 12V constant and switched power. It's a large black 8 position connector. I'm pretty sure that no one is still using it.
Don't hook up to the alternator signal output -- that was a low-power signal used to indicate that the phone could charge.
[QUOTE=djb2;30009606The telephone connector is conveniently nearby with 12V constant and switched power. It's a large black 8 position connector. I'm pretty sure that no one is still using it.
Don't hook up to the alternator signal output -- that was a low-power signal used to indicate that the phone could charge.[/QUOTE]
Come to think of it, that's what I hard-wired my converter into, rather than the cigar lighter circuit.
Wayne
1998 M Roadster
1994 Honda ST1100--sold
2017 Yamaha FJR1300ES
That reminds me, I want to intercept that power to the cigar lighter circuit and either add a relay or something to use ignition switch ON/RUN position to control it, or use an actual toggle/selector/something switch to control it.
Guess my Sunday has more electrical study planned.
I would only go with that option if you want to put it up front, with the A/C switches and etc. If you are OK with it being in the rear - where, as you can see in Randy's picture, there is a smaller sized OEM switch blank - there is an OE BMW option that fits that middle switch position
Part number 84109237653
There is also a new part being made for the wide switches too... but I don't think it is out yet
Going into my TENTH YEAR of providing high quality reproduction BMW fabrics!
PRICE CUT on ALL FABRICS
Offering the best prices on the best quality reproduction fabrics!
And then what, plug the back of the switch into this:
https://www.amazon.com/Switch-Cable-..._&dpSrc=detail
and then plug that into....???
Or cut the cable up and splice it into the car somehow?
Nathan in Denver
1999 M Roadster, VFE V3 S/C, Randy Forbes Reinforced, Hardtop, H&R/Bilstein, Apex PS-7, Supersprint
1999 Z3 2.8 Coupe, Headers, 3.46, Manual Swap, H&R/Koni, M Geometry/Brakes, M54B30 Manifold, Style 42
I found the OE face plate 51168407211
99 M Coupe
99 996 Cabrio
86 Saleen Griggs Road Race Car
Where is the rear defroster button/switch on that coupe???
Your answer lies right below the pics of the switch.
While these are indeed an option, you'll spend more money and time getting it connected properly with the correct wires and cables. The one from Niche Motoring is really nice because of the simplicity of how it connects...plus you get TWO usb ports!!!! You can also shave down/modify the Niche one to fit the smaller blank.
"You don't win silver....you lose gold."
I was able to effect this with a little creative wiring in the underhood fuse box. Went from the power side of an unused fuse powered by ignition, and jumped that to the load side of the cigar lighter fuse. I used a pair of fuse taps and the result fits underneath the fuse cover and works great!
Just power the lighter circuit from the phone connector. It has both switched and unswitched power. And it's not as if you are likely to install a uselessly obsolete phone cradle.
I was able to complete this with only pulling out my cupholder and not pulling the console whatsoever for the front. Because of that, I was able to pull the power cords for the lighter and splice and solder into them and then return them to their original connections. I used the pricey Niche part up front. It was a bit of a bear to put in and as typical it's JUST difficult enough to hurt your hands on the plastic. I plugged USB cables into the back and also the front, then used the front ones to fish it through the hole. I also connected the earphone jack to a cable hidden underneath which I can later hook up somewhere else--it would be difficult to attach it later when the passthrough is already in place. Then you still have to extend your hand to support it from the back and hope to heck you can get the faceplate on. I would suggest taking the faceplate off and putting it on beforehand several times so you know it will slide on easily--otherwise you're fighting with your weirdly angled hand behind the console. Had the Niche screws been 5mm longer it would have been MUCH easier, as you have to press hard from the back in an uncomfortable way to get the screws to push in far enough for them to get traction.
Then I used https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 in the pic. This is the only converter I found above the 3A listed for virtually every other one on Amazon. I've already connected it for 2 weeks on my car unstarted and it didn't seem to affect it whatsoever, so drain is likely minimal (they didn't respond when asked about drain). I also carefully took a screwdriver and smashed the annoying green LED on it and made sure it still works--it does. It fits perfectly under the stock cupholder and the cupholder wedges it in so it doesn't move. My LG G3 sucks a lot of electricity and tells me when it's a poor electrical source--it's fine with this and charges well using quality USB 3.0 cables (it showed low charging with cheap cables). I haven't tried using more than one of the 4 possible chargers (I only connected three with cables). It never even changed temperature after charging in my brief experience.
I had originally made my own double connector but trying to fit it made my USB female about 10mm recessed underneath. I gave up too quickly and could have made it work in retrospect, but the Niche seemed a good idea. The Niche doesn't exactly lock in place (they cinch top and bottom, but they don't seem to "click" into one spot) and I think the USB cables are slightly touching the inside right hand side of the console, making the pass-thru angle ever-so-slightly towards the left.
In the rear I made a plate out of brass and used https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 If you want only one USB pass-through, this is a very good choice. I loosened the 3 screws at the back to lift the console a little and removed the emergency brake boot to make installation easier.
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