I am looking to do a "refresh" to help out with the track time.
It is NOT my DD, however, I do drive the coupe about 3-4 times a week to work ( about 6 miles ) and occasionally hit the canyons for a nice spirited drive. I hope do be doing 6-8 Track days here in socal for the remainder of the year (SOW, Buttonwillow, Big willow, etc etc)
I currently have TCK Line SA with Camber plates. and that's it! ( aside from keeping it running, maintenance wise )
I've gone to track twice now, and it feels good! ( I've had just over 15 track days with other cars ) Just needs more of improvements. The brakes and BRAKE FADE were the main things that BUGGED ME. Which is why I am considering the cooling ducts and the PFC 08's pads.
Even with 47k miles, I feel like the suspension needs some more STIFF, so bushings will be replaced!
Here are a few things I'd like to swap out, what do you think?
Brakes:
-Air cooling Ducts- $100-200 ( If they Fit )
http://www.gruvenparts.com/bmw-e36-b...acking-plates/
-Brake pads- PFC 08- $350.00 and possibly new rotors ( 120 ) with SS lines
http://www.bimmerworld.com/PFC-Front...pound-394.html
Bushings:
-Engine mounts Street/RACE- $215.00
http://store.uucmotorwerks.com/engin...pair-p410.aspx
-Transmission mounts- $80
http://store.uucmotorwerks.com/mz3-c752.aspx
-Subframe bushing- $100
http://www.iemotorsport.com/bmw/item...bfrmmount.html
-Rear Trailing Arm bushings RTAB- $62
http://www.iemotorsport.com/bmw/item/e30rearbush.html
-Front control arm bushings- $150
http://www.bimmerworld.com/Suspensio...CABEgKNgPD_BwE
I eventually would like gut it and cage it up as I get more experience with this car. Any suggestions or tips?
Keep the OEM engine and trans mounts...Unless you like the full on racecar "noise". Keep the OEM RTAB as well unless you want to hear them squeaking all the time.
Powerflex "Centered" FCAB - you do not want off center on the M.
A big Front swap bar will help A LOT!!
I use centrix blank rotors - $30 shipped on Amazon. make sure to get Track pads for the rear as well as the front.
Got it! I've seen many suggesting to keep the OEM on older threads, too. So is that vibration noise and squeaks that are that loud? My car is pretty stiff as it is and constantly hearing noises, so I wonder if its that much.
I'm wondering about performance differences, too.. as in you can feel the difference in stiffness or no, and if so, is it worth the noise and stuff.
lol funny enough that I found that out right after posting this! Stock geometry is what I want to keep, unless I go a different route.
That's something I have been looking in to. What are you running?
I was actually tempted to disconnect the rear sway bar for a bit and see how I liked it. People say that it's supposed to help if we felt that its "too" tail happy. I actually LOVE the way it handles with it on...Except when all 4 corners went off road! lol
Tried finding some that cheap, but they weren't that cheap for the z3m's. Have a link?
I appreciate the feedback! Thanks a ton.
Centric blank
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IY9IJW
REMEMBET THIS IS JUST ONE SIDE - DIFFERENT PART NUMBER FOR OTHER SIDE
I have Racing Dynamics and eibach front bars - not sure if either are still available - Anything E36 M3 should fit fine on the front as well.
Our roadster liked no rear bar, but the Coupe seems to like a rear bar.
Like any combined system, a cars handling is the sum of all the parts, the tires/alignment/springs/shocks all work together, so depending on a lot of factors you need to try it!
The good think is it's easy to disconnect the bar to try it.
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