1997 Arctic Silver/Black M3
CES Stage IV (651rwhp/615rwtq @ 24 psi)
1999 Techno Violet/Dove M3
Auto/Convertible and staying stock!
^^^ That’s not likely though.
did you pull the VC yet??? Im hoping its not what I think it is...
98 Fern Green M3/2 - Precision 6870/AR Designs Twin Scroll/RK/E85
2017 Toyota Tundra Crewmaxx - Family Whip
2011 Pierce 75' Quint - Fire Apparatus West Islip FD
Pulled VC and seals look good. Ughhhhhhh.......
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Time has been hard to come by lately but I have a few more updates.
I replaced all 24 valve seals in hopes that would fix the issue but no dice there.
I also just for shits ran a compression test and leakdown and they came back with damn near perfect results.
I have yet to fully bypass the turbo to completely eliminate the turbo but it seems unlikely. I guess perhaps from the exhaust scavenging it COULD pull oil back into the motor if it was pissing oil out the exhaust side and pouring right down into my exhausts runners.
Since I have to pull that off anyway in the process of pulling the motor I might as well test that just to make sure.
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Last edited by bavdrftr318; 01-01-2019 at 09:32 AM.
I remember Anthony had a smoking car with total seal rings, hope its not the same issue.
Yeah his pistons apparently needed oil support rails or something and he forgot them completely. Hence the 6 wet plugs and the 6 wet intake ports.
I am almost 100% certain I assembled all 3 pieces of the oil control ring correctly which is why I’m so hesitant to pull the motor (besides that it’s a bitch and I don’t want to do it again lol).
Even less likely I total messed it up across every single piston....
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How many miles are on the engine now? I just rebuilt an S54 and it burned oil for 500 miles. I was worried it would never go away.. but it did.
95 turbo 330ti. 01 maxpsi m3 e85. 01 m5. 01 m coupe. 03 AIM 996t e85. 06 x3 w/Meyers plow and winter daily. Prussian Motors is hiring!! prussianmotors.com/jobs
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50 miles or so. Before you say “that’s crazy no way the rings are seated yet” I did a compression and leakdown and the engine is super tight. Like 3% on leakdown across all 6 holes.
I beat the hell outta the motor right out of the gate and probably 40 of these 50 miles are running it really hard.
This isn’t just a little bit of smoking. I burned 1/2qt of oil in 20 miles of driving. When I take off at a light I crop dust the entire intersection.
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Last edited by bavdrftr318; 01-02-2019 at 07:57 PM.
Pic of your turbo drain
Right above oil plug. The 90 bend corner on the an fitting goes almost flush with the very bottom of the pan.
Not ideal at all but the line is 30 inches long at -10 hose. Some say no way it’s backing up and other say the opposite.
The real question is if I have oil spewing out my exhaust side of the turbo can it make its way through the exhaust manifold and back into the engine?
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No oil in the charge pipes? The piston rings arn't upside down are they? If the rings are upside down it will pass compression and leakdown but it will smoke like a tire fire.
The machine shop replaced the valve seals and then I came behind them after I saw smoking and had to replace all of them again just to make sure they didn’t put the wrong seals in.
That leaves the drain backing up from the oil drain. Hopefully that is the issue, just find it a little unlikely it’s getting pulled all the way back into the motor from the exhaust manifold.
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Last edited by bavdrftr318; 01-03-2019 at 10:11 AM.
Man, I'm as stumped as you, but am very interested to see what ends up solving it.
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Found out it’s definitely from the drain backing up. I know I don’t have the best drain location but you would think with like 24” of line that is not under oil level ... gravity would do its job.
Literally within a second of starting the car the line is completely flooded and going nowhere. I’m worried even if I moved the drain up as high as possible on the pan it wouldn’t help.
I know timing cover is king but my wastegate dump tube is kinda in the way....
Maybe scavenge pump is my only option....
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I've got a couple new fittings to see if I can reduce the angle length coming out of the pan. Before on the bottom mount setup i had a 1/2"npt to 10an adapter to the pan that was a 45 degree.
Currently I have a 1/2npt to 10an straight adapter, then this big 90 connector. This ended up creating about a 2 inch section of a downward slope before it hits the 90 bend and starts to go back up.
We will see. I have a few oil restrictors too to play with up top. I know a restrictor on a JB setup is controversial, but this thing flows like a damn firehose so I don't think I have anything to worry about.
Can you tell I'm willing to do anything besides drop the pan and retap? lol
Are you certain there is nothing obstructing the fitting or hose going into the pan?
This is mine just for reference. It’s well below the oil level and actually enters the pan at an upward angle
The reason a journal bearing turbo normally doesn’t need a restrictor is because the bearing clearance basically controls the amount of oil that can flow through the turbo since it has to pass between the bearing and shaft. I would try like a .060” restrictor and see what happens.
how is this possible? you have multiple people on FB telling you, including me. To pull the pan. Move the drain. Fix the issue and move on. don't band aid with a scavenge system. The difference between your turbo and mine is nill. Drop the subframe. pull the pan. Move it to the highest point. There will be no issues its been proven by many BW journal bearing builds. you'll be fine. this is your only issue. I wish I would have said something when I saw your pan the first time.
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