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Thread: White Pony Resurrection - My road to 1000hp

  1. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by bavdrftr318 View Post


    Prob need something more precise than this huh ?


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    You really need a set of micrometers to do it right. But there are other options like ordering a few sets of bearings and playing with plastigague.

    Probably grab some literature on the subject. Donít rely on the internet and us 100%.


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    1989 535i - sold
    1999 Tiag/Dove M3 - sold
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    PTE6870 | 1.15 ar | Hp Cover, Custom Divided T4 bottom-mount, 3.5" SS exhaust, Dual Turbosmart Compgates, Turbosmart Raceport BOV, 3.5" Treadstone Intercooler, 3.5" Vibrant resonator and muffler, Arp 2k Headstuds | Arp 2k Main studs | 87mm Je pistons | Eagle rods | 9.2:1 static compression, Ces 87mm cutring, Custom solid rear subframe bushings, Akg 85d diff bushings, 4 clutch 3.15 diff, , Poly engine mounts, UUC trans mounts W/ enforcers, 22RPD OBD2 Stock ECU id1700 E85 tune, 22RPD Big power Transmission swap w/ GS6-53

  2. #27
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    Definitely going to need a set of mics if you're building an engine from scratch...

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  3. #28
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    According to the TIS, you use the bearings that match the color on the crankshaft itself. However it makes a difference if you are changing crank into a different block. Sounds confusing but I followed these instructions here with good results. Make sure to plasti-gauge if you don't have fancy tools.

    "Install bearing shells in crankcase with same colour code as dot of paint on the crankcase. Install bearing shells in bearing caps with same colour code as on the crankshaft. If paint mark has been washed off crankcase, install both bearing shells according to the crankshaft paint mark colour."

    https://bmwtis.info/replacing-main-b...ngine-bmw-m50/
    Last edited by SCapelo; 05-04-2018 at 11:00 PM.
    97 Turbo 3.2L M3 - Cutring / ARP - RSI Top Mount - Gt4088r - ID1300 - Tial WG - 22RPD Tuned - 93 Octane - 3.5" Stainless

  4. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by bavdrftr318 View Post


    Prob need something more precise than this huh ?


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    I'm sure that everybody has their own preference when it comes to tools (and their use), these are just some examples of how I'm comfortable measuring things.

    Note, this is by no means all inclusive, and there are variations that essentially do the same thing.























    These are just some of the generic measuring tools that I use, and these are of course, used in conjunction with BMW-specific tools & fixtures (cam & VANOS tools, for example) and various__1/4", 3/8" & 1/2" square drive__torque wrenches.

    But hey, take heart, as a vernier caliper is an excellent start!

  5. #30
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    Great info Randy!


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  6. #31
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    Assuming you trust the machine shop that's boring and honing the block to get the bore size right you really don't need micrometers and a bore gauge, but they are good tools to own anyway. If your just slapping new bearings in and screwing everything together plasitguage is a reasonable sanity check on clearance. Thrust clearance can be checked with feeler gauges. Rod bolt stretch can be done with a micrometer and some patience.


    86 325es, 2.8L NV m50, S366, Megasquirt 2, e85, solid rear axle, 4 link, spool, T56 Magnum trans, 28x10.5w slicks, zip ties
    Best = 9.43 @ 149.15 mph, 1.30 60 foot 28 psi boost

  7. #32
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    currently ordering all the little pieces for rebuilding engine. I broke the chain guides as they were crazy brittle. Does the lower timing chain/ tensioner/ guides change from m52 stuff to s52? Remember the block is an m52 and I'm running s52 crank and s52 cams now. Not sure if any of that matters. Any help?

    Any bad brands to stay away from like febi or do i need to get OEM stuff?

  8. #33
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    same


    86 325es, 2.8L NV m50, S366, Megasquirt 2, e85, solid rear axle, 4 link, spool, T56 Magnum trans, 28x10.5w slicks, zip ties
    Best = 9.43 @ 149.15 mph, 1.30 60 foot 28 psi boost

  9. #34
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    White Pony Resurrection - My road to 1000hp

    Quote Originally Posted by someguy2800 View Post
    same
    Thanks


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    Last edited by bavdrftr318; 05-07-2018 at 11:27 AM.

  10. #35
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    Parts starting to show up.

    Any idea what the hell this might be in reference to haha?

    54768584280__954916FA-4C5F-4EE1-BA13-7045B92410F1.JPG


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  11. #36
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    Your manifold shipped today
    My manifolds powering 8sec and over 1000rwp cars
    Home of the highest HP stock M30 in the world 550rwhp/622rwtq
    1/4 mile---> 9.81 @138 C4 Auto
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  12. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by good & tight View Post
    Your manifold shipped today
    Awwwwwwww yeahhhhhhhhh ))))


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  13. #38
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    White Pony Resurrection - My road to 1000hp

    Iím keeping the wg and BOV from my current build. Does anyone have an idea of what spring should go in the tial 50mm BOV?

    I remember there being some issues with it closing at idle just want to make sure that I have the spring correct.


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  14. #39
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    Well little update. I'm currently gapping the total seal rings I got from Anthony. Man what a boring process!!!!

    Engine is got bored and honed to 84.5, decked, hot tanked. Also ended up having them line hone as the arp mains distorted the bore by 4 thousandths. So now we are back to spec so I should be able to just drop in the glyco stock bore main bearings in and be good with my new s52 crank I picked up. ns

    Rods and pistons are balanced.

    Should hopefully have the bottom end fully together by the end of the weekend. I'll post some pictures later.

    Oh and also I'm still waiting for fuel system parts from rallyroad. They apparently are getting in some new stuff and I might actually be able to buy most everything from them in a kit format which would be convenient. The plan is 8an/8an stainless lines, their fuel rail, dual warlboro 450 on their CNC hangar.

  15. #40
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    So little update again. The s52 crank I bought turns out to be bent. How a forged crank gets bent is beyond me but I measured with a dial gauge in the middle and it was 2.5 thou off. I then measured my old m52 crank and it was under one thousanth.

    Anyone know what the acceptable tolerance are on these? I'm assuming none really haha.

    Time to scrap this one and buy another s52 crank I suppose... SMH....

  16. #41
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    Buy an M54 crank, itís the same but cheaper.

  17. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by chikinhed View Post
    Buy an M54 crank, it’s the same but cheaper.
    So far I've obtained 3 of them. All were out of spec with the best one of the 3 being 1.5thou off when I tested for runout.

    Apparently I have the worst luck ever. One more this week is coming straight out of an m54 that has never been cracked open. If it is off I give up lol

  18. #43
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    Its normal for them to be out a thou or 2. They will bend that much pushing on them with your thumb. If the main bearings weren't trashed when it came out then it was fine.
    Last edited by someguy2800; 06-19-2018 at 01:32 AM.


    86 325es, 2.8L NV m50, S366, Megasquirt 2, e85, solid rear axle, 4 link, spool, T56 Magnum trans, 28x10.5w slicks, zip ties
    Best = 9.43 @ 149.15 mph, 1.30 60 foot 28 psi boost

  19. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by someguy2800 View Post
    Its normal for them to be out a thou or 2. They will bend that much pushing on them with your thumb. If the main bearings weren't trashed when it came out then it was fine.
    With such big power it concerns me. I also know cranks can be straight as my m52 crank that came out of it is dead straight.

    You really think 2 thousands isnít an issue :/ ?


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  20. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by bavdrftr318 View Post
    With such big power it concerns me. I also know cranks can be straight as my m52 crank that came out of it is dead straight.

    You really think 2 thousands isn’t an issue :/ ?


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    in use the block and crank bend and conform to each other as they will both flex and warp under power. The crank rides the oil film which keeps it a few tenths of a thou off the bearing surface. It wouldn’t be different if it was making 100 or 1000 hp. Like I said if the main bearings were good in the motor it was taken out of them it’s good to go. If it gives you piece of mind take it to a machine shop and have them straighten it, it’s a simple procedure with the right equipment.


    86 325es, 2.8L NV m50, S366, Megasquirt 2, e85, solid rear axle, 4 link, spool, T56 Magnum trans, 28x10.5w slicks, zip ties
    Best = 9.43 @ 149.15 mph, 1.30 60 foot 28 psi boost

  21. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by someguy2800 View Post
    in use the block and crank bend and conform to each other as they will both flex and warp under power. The crank rides the oil film which keeps it a few tenths of a thou off the bearing surface. It wouldnít be different if it was making 100 or 1000 hp. Like I said if the main bearings were good in the motor it was taken out of them itís good to go. If it gives you piece of mind take it to a machine shop and have them straighten it, itís a simple procedure with the right equipment.
    The problem is to straighten it correctly it will need to be heated. Even then straightening will reduce the strength by a little. Cryo hardening would help mitigate but $$$. Either way we are talking more money than what I could just get a crank for haha.

    Good point though in the crank flexing never really thought about that. Problem is I didnít see the bearings or which these cranks came out of so I have no way really to know if all was well or not....


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  22. #47
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    Can't wait to see how your new setup does. I rode in your car when it was at Technica in ATL years ago when it was still blurple and the GT35R setup was just installed. Badass to see this kind of progress. Small world lol

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    Last edited by m3leistung; 06-19-2018 at 04:29 PM.
    99 M3

  23. #48
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    When I was in school I straightened quite a few of them and we never used heat. There is a special V-block fixture with a hydraulic cylinder just for doing this.


    86 325es, 2.8L NV m50, S366, Megasquirt 2, e85, solid rear axle, 4 link, spool, T56 Magnum trans, 28x10.5w slicks, zip ties
    Best = 9.43 @ 149.15 mph, 1.30 60 foot 28 psi boost

  24. #49
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    Ya donít think that compromised the crank without heating and rehardening?


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  25. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by m3leistung View Post
    Can't wait to see how your new setup does. I rode in your car when it was at Technica in ATL years ago when it was still blurple and the GT35R setup was just installed. Badass to see this kind of progress. Small world lol

    Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
    Wow thatís really cool! Crazy to think that was when it was making 378whp. Used to feel like a rocket ship.

    Itís hilariously how quick you get numb to the power and want more :p


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