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Thread: White Pony Resurrection - My road to 1000hp

  1. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by bavdrftr318 View Post


    Prob need something more precise than this huh ?


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    You really need a set of micrometers to do it right. But there are other options like ordering a few sets of bearings and playing with plastigague.

    Probably grab some literature on the subject. Donít rely on the internet and us 100%.


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    1989 535i - sold
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  2. #27
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    Definitely going to need a set of mics if you're building an engine from scratch...

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  3. #28
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    According to the TIS, you use the bearings that match the color on the crankshaft itself. However it makes a difference if you are changing crank into a different block. Sounds confusing but I followed these instructions here with good results. Make sure to plasti-gauge if you don't have fancy tools.

    "Install bearing shells in crankcase with same colour code as dot of paint on the crankcase. Install bearing shells in bearing caps with same colour code as on the crankshaft. If paint mark has been washed off crankcase, install both bearing shells according to the crankshaft paint mark colour."

    https://bmwtis.info/replacing-main-b...ngine-bmw-m50/
    Last edited by SCapelo; 05-04-2018 at 11:00 PM.
    97 Turbo 3.2L M3 - Cutring / ARP - RSI Top Mount - Gt4088r - ID1300 - Tial WG - 22RPD Tuned - 93 Octane - 3.5" Stainless

  4. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by bavdrftr318 View Post


    Prob need something more precise than this huh ?


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    I'm sure that everybody has their own preference when it comes to tools (and their use), these are just some examples of how I'm comfortable measuring things.

    Note, this is by no means all inclusive, and there are variations that essentially do the same thing.























    These are just some of the generic measuring tools that I use, and these are of course, used in conjunction with BMW-specific tools & fixtures (cam & VANOS tools, for example) and various__1/4", 3/8" & 1/2" square drive__torque wrenches.

    But hey, take heart, as a vernier caliper is an excellent start!

  5. #30
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    Great info Randy!


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  6. #31
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    Assuming you trust the machine shop that's boring and honing the block to get the bore size right you really don't need micrometers and a bore gauge, but they are good tools to own anyway. If your just slapping new bearings in and screwing everything together plasitguage is a reasonable sanity check on clearance. Thrust clearance can be checked with feeler gauges. Rod bolt stretch can be done with a micrometer and some patience.
    86 325es, 2.8L NV m50, S366, Megasquirt 2, e85, solid rear axle, 4 link, spool, T56 Magnum trans, 28x10.5w slicks, zip ties
    Best = 9.43 @ 149.15 mph, 1.30 60 foot 28 psi boost

  7. #32
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    currently ordering all the little pieces for rebuilding engine. I broke the chain guides as they were crazy brittle. Does the lower timing chain/ tensioner/ guides change from m52 stuff to s52? Remember the block is an m52 and I'm running s52 crank and s52 cams now. Not sure if any of that matters. Any help?

    Any bad brands to stay away from like febi or do i need to get OEM stuff?

  8. #33
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    same
    86 325es, 2.8L NV m50, S366, Megasquirt 2, e85, solid rear axle, 4 link, spool, T56 Magnum trans, 28x10.5w slicks, zip ties
    Best = 9.43 @ 149.15 mph, 1.30 60 foot 28 psi boost

  9. #34
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    White Pony Resurrection - My road to 1000hp

    Quote Originally Posted by someguy2800 View Post
    same
    Thanks


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    Last edited by bavdrftr318; 05-07-2018 at 11:27 AM.

  10. #35
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    Parts starting to show up.

    Any idea what the hell this might be in reference to haha?

    54768584280__954916FA-4C5F-4EE1-BA13-7045B92410F1.JPG


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  11. #36
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    Your manifold shipped today
    My manifolds powering 8sec and over 1000rwp cars
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  12. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by good & tight View Post
    Your manifold shipped today
    Awwwwwwww yeahhhhhhhhh ))))


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  13. #38
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    White Pony Resurrection - My road to 1000hp

    Iím keeping the wg and BOV from my current build. Does anyone have an idea of what spring should go in the tial 50mm BOV?

    I remember there being some issues with it closing at idle just want to make sure that I have the spring correct.


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