I just received my E21 tranny mounts (#23 71 1 109 173) and noticed that there is no dimple to accommodate the 'bump' on the crossmember. Is it advisable to drill a small recess in the rubber similar to the dimples in the mounts that I'll be taking off?
I have the E21 mounts with Akg cups. I ended up just cutting off the dimples on my trans brace so the mounts sit flush, you might also have to make the trans brace bushing mount holes just a bit bigger so the studs on the E21 mounts can go in, its very minimal trimming took me a couple mins with a dremel tool.
Thanks. I expected that I'd have to open up the holes for the studs. Did you cut the dimples on your trans brace so that the cups would sit flush? I'll be using the UUC cups that mount on the top side of the mount. That being the case, I still think I might need to make a small recess on the bottom of my mounts.
Correct, I cut / dremeled off the dimples on the trans brace so the mounts sit flush
Thanks for the clarification. I figured that the dimple(s) must be there for a reason. I also figured that it'd be easier / quicker to make a dimple in the rubber than it is to grind the nubs off of the crossmember.
One last amateurish question: Since you can't get a socket on the top side nuts, will the 16 ft lbs of torque applied to the bottom fasteners take care of the nuts on the top?
Dimples are there to preclude rotation of the TM. Torque on the lower fastener does not translate to the upper fastener. As I recall a ‘crows foot’ works or get a feel on bottom fastener and reapply that amount of force to the top fasteners.
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Thanks. I did just that. It appears that someone, during previous ownership, broke one of the four crossmember fasteners off in the chassis. I'm wondering if I can just drill it out slightly smaller than the required fastener and kind of force the new fastener to thread in.7
Edit: ^^^Bad idea. I'll give it the old easy out method.
Last edited by Bostongruen; 04-24-2018 at 03:13 AM.
Or use a nutsert type receiver either in the same hole or a new one if there is space for a new hole.
There is room for another hole but I'm going to try using an extractor first. Unfortunately, in order to do so I need to drop the exhaust since it's the right rear bolt that's directly on top of the exhaust.
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If you do drop the exhaust, I highly recommend you spray the nuts for the headers to midpipe with some pb blaster so you don't snap the studs off the manifolds
yea, they tend to fall apart when you remove the midpipe assembly - 18301716888
The manifold studs didn't break but one of the triangular tips of one of the flanges was broken but not enough to create a problem. The broken tranny bracket mount fastener came out with no problem. Since the car was on the lift, I did the motor mounts as well. The top side stud on driver's side mount was no longer attached to the mount and the fluid had long left the confines of the mount. The difference between before and after is like night and day.
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