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Thread: HELP 2001 740i died, cranks, tries to catch then dies

  1. #1
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    Angry HELP 2001 740i died, cranks, tries to catch then dies

    I was chasing a low coolant issue (for 18 months now) and thought that I finally got it fixed. I took it for a nice drive and all seemed well until I got in my community and the car just died . I thought I might be out of gas but I wasn't out and added more but no luck. I checked codes and I have the entire bank 1 misfiring (P1341, P1343, P1345, P1347, P1349), so I looked it up and from what I read, the Camshaft Position Sensor (CPS) might have gone bad. I swapped the bank 1 and bank 2 sensors but no change, but I order one anyways. Replaced it and still the same issue. If I disconnect the CPS, it will fire up, run extremely rough and misfires (not derivable and the popping is unsettling) .

    I have downloaded INPA, installed it, have the K+DCAN cable and the 20 pin to OBD2 connector adapter, but not exactly sure what to look for or what I should check next.

    What should I be checking next?
    2001 740i M Sport, built 2/2001.
    Repairs Completed: Valey Pan, Intake gaskets, Oil Separator Valve, Valve cover gaskets, Upper timing chain cover gaskets, Vanos solenoid gaskets, Oil pan gasket, Overflow tank (4X), Overflow tank cap (3X), Overflow tank bleeder screw (6X), Most coolant hoses (1 or 2 left to the heater core), Flushed heater core, inspected auxiliary pump and heater valves, timing chain tensioner, Radiator, water pump, thermostat, sway bar links, 4 Wheel alignment
    Needed repairs: Upper & Lower control arms, power steering leaks, another oil leak, replace seal for Large water pump pipe inlet
    Mods: Soft Angel Eyes LEDs, blacked out grill, Painted valve cover gaskets, MK4 Nav, 2015 maps, M logo door lights, DICE Bluetooth and (non-DICE) DSP adapter.

  2. #2
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    bump...no one?

    I didn't recall replacing the plugs, so I pulled them and they looked fouled, so replaced them, but still no luck.
    I did find the vacuum line off the back of the intake a few days ago, but putting it back didn't help.
    I also had to recharge the battery, so reset the ECU and checked to make there were no codes after replacing the plugs, but still misfire and getting the same codes.
    I checked the ground on bank 1 and all was good.
    Also checked the slack on the timing chain via the oil fill cap and no slack....

    I'm thinking it is going to be something simple, but not sure what to check next. ANY help would be greatly appreciated

    Thanks,
    Al

  3. #3
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    The popping usually means an electrical problem - and that is usually the camshaft sensor - see if this sounds like yours:

    http://www.meeknet.co.uk/e31/E31_84o...ops_Starts.htm

    But, you say you have replaced the camshaft sensor already so that is a bit of a mystery (you did replace it with an OEM one didn't you)?

    As the problem is only affecting one bank then a camshaft sensor would seem the most likely possibility - the other candidate would be the catalytic converter - more info here:

    http://www.meeknet.co.uk/e31/E31_840...l_Throttle.htm

    ...but that doesn't usually cause popping - that is more electrical.

    So, the next one on the list is the CRANKshaft sensor, but that would affect both banks.

    As for using INPA - this should help:

    http://www.meeknet.co.uk/E38/Diagnostics.htm
    Timm..2007 E64 650i Individual Sport..1999 E31 840ci Individual Sport..ex owner of 2000 E38 740..1999 E38 740i V8 M62..1998 E38 735i V8..1993 E32 730i V8..1988 E28 518i


    My BMW Repair YouTube Channel
    My Current 840ci Sport Individual
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  4. #4
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    Post

    Thanks Timm for the response!

    Quote Originally Posted by Timm View Post
    The popping usually means an electrical problem - and that is usually the camshaft sensor - see if this sounds like yours:

    http://www.meeknet.co.uk/e31/E31_84o...ops_Starts.htm
    I agree with you that it is an electric issue and I'm thinking it is something that got disconnected or popped out. The car died after I drove over a small speed bump and wouldn't start at all.

    Quote Originally Posted by Timm View Post
    But, you say you have replaced the camshaft sensor already so that is a bit of a mystery (you did replace it with an OEM one didn't you)?

    As the problem is only affecting one bank then a camshaft sensor would seem the most likely possibility - the other candidate would be the catalytic converter - more info here:

    http://www.meeknet.co.uk/e31/E31_840...l_Throttle.htm

    ...but that doesn't usually cause popping - that is more electrical.
    I did replace the CPS with an OEM one and the current one is what was on bank 2 and the new one is on bank 2, still same issue. With the CPS connected it keeps cranking and tries to catch by dies right away. If I disconnect it, it runs for 10-15 secs with lots of popping from bank 1 and then dies.

    As far as cats, I usually drive spiritted when I'm testing things and it had no lack of power at all prior to dying.

    Quote Originally Posted by Timm View Post
    So, the next one on the list is the CRANKshaft sensor, but that would affect both banks.

    As for using INPA - this should help:

    http://www.meeknet.co.uk/E38/Diagnostics.htm
    I'll lift it and test the crankshaft sensor as well as read through the INPA page and try to get some data. It's definitely frustrating as everytime I fix something, something else breaks and I can't just enjoy driving it

    If you or anyone think of something else, please let me know and I'll try it as while I'm checking out the Crankshaft sensor and INPA data.
    2001 740i M Sport, built 2/2001.
    Repairs Completed: Valey Pan, Intake gaskets, Oil Separator Valve, Valve cover gaskets, Upper timing chain cover gaskets, Vanos solenoid gaskets, Oil pan gasket, Overflow tank (4X), Overflow tank cap (3X), Overflow tank bleeder screw (6X), Most coolant hoses (1 or 2 left to the heater core), Flushed heater core, inspected auxiliary pump and heater valves, timing chain tensioner, Radiator, water pump, thermostat, sway bar links, 4 Wheel alignment
    Needed repairs: Upper & Lower control arms, power steering leaks, another oil leak, replace seal for Large water pump pipe inlet
    Mods: Soft Angel Eyes LEDs, blacked out grill, Painted valve cover gaskets, MK4 Nav, 2015 maps, M logo door lights, DICE Bluetooth and (non-DICE) DSP adapter.

  5. #5
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    I was finally able to check a couple of things today but no change. Checked crank position sensor and it read 637 ohms which is in the right range. Banged on the cat and no rattle. Disconnected each coil one at a time and it would r catch at all and cranking stops quickly.

    Checked the block of 30amp fuses under the hood inside the DME box and all were good. I also checked the fuel pressure before startup and it was over 60psi.
    i haven’t had a chance to run INPA before heading out but what should I check next?
    2001 740i M Sport, built 2/2001.
    Repairs Completed: Valey Pan, Intake gaskets, Oil Separator Valve, Valve cover gaskets, Upper timing chain cover gaskets, Vanos solenoid gaskets, Oil pan gasket, Overflow tank (4X), Overflow tank cap (3X), Overflow tank bleeder screw (6X), Most coolant hoses (1 or 2 left to the heater core), Flushed heater core, inspected auxiliary pump and heater valves, timing chain tensioner, Radiator, water pump, thermostat, sway bar links, 4 Wheel alignment
    Needed repairs: Upper & Lower control arms, power steering leaks, another oil leak, replace seal for Large water pump pipe inlet
    Mods: Soft Angel Eyes LEDs, blacked out grill, Painted valve cover gaskets, MK4 Nav, 2015 maps, M logo door lights, DICE Bluetooth and (non-DICE) DSP adapter.

  6. #6
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    I've been lurking on your thread, mainly because I don't know these cars well enough yet to offer any insight. But man, I feel your pain!!! I've got my fingers crossed for ya!

    If this was one of my Porsche's, I'd be of half a mind to think the bump knocked something loose in the DME, but I don't think these are quite old enough yet for that....
    2001 740iL "Silver Beauty"
    1986 Porsche 951 "Silver Bullet"
    1987 Porsche 944 NA Auto (rebuilding for my son's first car)
    https://home.doonze.net/filepage.php <- BMW/Porsche doc's and files, work in progress

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by al535e34 View Post
    I was finally able to check a couple of things today but no change. Checked crank position sensor and it read 637 ohms which is in the right range. Banged on the cat and no rattle. Disconnected each coil one at a time and it would r catch at all and cranking stops quickly.

    Checked the block of 30amp fuses under the hood inside the DME box and all were good. I also checked the fuel pressure before startup and it was over 60psi.
    i haven’t had a chance to run INPA before heading out but what should I check next?
    The thing is that you did everything what I would have done with this issue. INPA won't help you much, give better error codes but misfire is misfire.
    I would still quess it's the cat but not sure how to test those. My misfiring was caused by cats (it was also bank 1 I think), replaced them with Magnaflow and it got resolved.
    Sorry man, I hope you will figure!

  8. #8
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    I tried disconnecting and reconnecting all the DME connectors as well as tested the fuel pump relay and swapped it with the one to its right, but no change.

    I will try to see if I can disconnect the exhaust before the cat or remove the oxygen sensor and see if that makes any difference. I haven't had a helper to try to check if there's any exhaust coming off the back, but in the garage there is an exhaust cloud but not sure if from both or one.

    Any other thoughts? What are the things that the DME checks for or tries to adjust for bank 1?
    Last edited by al535e34; 04-28-2018 at 01:08 AM.
    2001 740i M Sport, built 2/2001.
    Repairs Completed: Valey Pan, Intake gaskets, Oil Separator Valve, Valve cover gaskets, Upper timing chain cover gaskets, Vanos solenoid gaskets, Oil pan gasket, Overflow tank (4X), Overflow tank cap (3X), Overflow tank bleeder screw (6X), Most coolant hoses (1 or 2 left to the heater core), Flushed heater core, inspected auxiliary pump and heater valves, timing chain tensioner, Radiator, water pump, thermostat, sway bar links, 4 Wheel alignment
    Needed repairs: Upper & Lower control arms, power steering leaks, another oil leak, replace seal for Large water pump pipe inlet
    Mods: Soft Angel Eyes LEDs, blacked out grill, Painted valve cover gaskets, MK4 Nav, 2015 maps, M logo door lights, DICE Bluetooth and (non-DICE) DSP adapter.

  9. #9
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    2001 750il Chrome line
    A couple of simple things to check. Unplug the MAF and see what happens. Also take a look under the passenger seat carpet. Because you said it was suden if your sunroof ever leaked I can almost guarantee that all the power connections are rusty. If the engine is loaded up with fuel it may take some cranking to clear it out. Low voltage will kill you car.

    https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...2#post29928932

    - - - Updated - - -

    Just saw this on another thread for cam sensor codes,

    You may need an engine wiring harness. Open the black plastic boxes which house the injector connectors and look at the splices with the red/blue wires. If they are badly corroded, that may be your issue. Shady power supply to those sensors and other components. They're showing their age these days.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by al535e34 View Post
    I tried disconnecting and reconnecting all the DME connectors as well as tested the fuel pump relay and swapped it with the one to its right, but no change.

    I will try to see if I can disconnect the exhaust before the cat or remove the oxygen sensor and see if that makes any difference. I haven't had a helper to try to check if there's any exhaust coming off the back, but in the garage there is an exhaust cloud but not sure if from both or one.

    Any other thoughts? What are the things that the DME checks for or tries to adjust for bank 1?
    One more thing, I have solved countless problems on my car simply removing the connectors and applying DeOxit, now I basically do it every time when I'm unplugging something. I think your problem is either cat/O2 sensor or wiring. Don't think MAF can have an effect on only one bank. I would try deoxit on all DME plugs.

  11. #11
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    Over 60 psi is your problem - that's over 4 Bar when the fuel-rail pressure should be 3 Bar - 3.5 Bar. Either the return line to the fuel tank is blocked or the pressure regulator has failed. On a 2001 model the FPR is part of the filter assembly....
    Timm..2007 E64 650i Individual Sport..1999 E31 840ci Individual Sport..ex owner of 2000 E38 740..1999 E38 740i V8 M62..1998 E38 735i V8..1993 E32 730i V8..1988 E28 518i


    My BMW Repair YouTube Channel
    My Current 840ci Sport Individual
    My Current 650ci Sport Individual
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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Timm View Post
    Over 60 psi is your problem - that's over 4 Bar when the fuel-rail pressure should be 3 Bar - 3.5 Bar. Either the return line to the fuel tank is blocked or the pressure regulator has failed. On a 2001 model the FPR is part of the filter assembly....
    ...and that would make sense cause it's at the bottom of the car and he hit some bump. Good catch!

  13. #13
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    I didn't get a chance to pull the exhaust or oxygen sensor off, but double checked my fuel pressure. It's hovering around 45 psi (not 60), also to clarify, I went over a small speed bump before the car cuttoff and didn't bump the bottom of the car.

    I have tried pulling off the MAF connector before and no luck.

    Here's a video of my trying to fire it up

    Here's a summary of all what I have done so far:

    • Replaced Camshaft position sensor with a new OEM, and also swapped with Bank 2 - No change
    • Checked Crankshaft position sensor and it reads 637 ohms - within range
    • Disconnected MAF - no change
    • Found the vacuum hose on the back of the intake disconnected and I reconnected it - No change
    • Replaced all spark plugs - no change
    • Disconnected one coil at a time and car never catches
    • Tested and swapped out the fuel pump relay with the one next to it - No change
    • Disconnected and reconnected the DME connectors - No change
    • Sprayed carb cleaner at the the sides of the throttle body to check for leaks - No change
    • Checked fuel pressure and it's holding around 40-45 psi at start up and when cranking
    • Checked slack on the timing chain and no slack


    Things remaining to try:
    • Remove oxygen sensor and fire it up to check if cats are clogged
    • Check passenger side floor for corrosion (although I'm confident I don't have any leaks, but will check)


    Work that was done previously over the last couple of years (less than 10K miles)
    • Valley pan was replaced
    • Intake gaskets replaced
    • CCV replaced
    • Throttle body gasket replaced
    • Water pump and O rings replaced
    • Low temp thermostat installed
    • Radiator replaced
    • All cooling system hoses replaced
    • New temp sensor replaced
    • Timing chain tensioner (11/2015)


    I'm sure I'm missing a couple of more things related to suspension, but not related to the engine, so not listing it.
    2001 740i M Sport, built 2/2001.
    Repairs Completed: Valey Pan, Intake gaskets, Oil Separator Valve, Valve cover gaskets, Upper timing chain cover gaskets, Vanos solenoid gaskets, Oil pan gasket, Overflow tank (4X), Overflow tank cap (3X), Overflow tank bleeder screw (6X), Most coolant hoses (1 or 2 left to the heater core), Flushed heater core, inspected auxiliary pump and heater valves, timing chain tensioner, Radiator, water pump, thermostat, sway bar links, 4 Wheel alignment
    Needed repairs: Upper & Lower control arms, power steering leaks, another oil leak, replace seal for Large water pump pipe inlet
    Mods: Soft Angel Eyes LEDs, blacked out grill, Painted valve cover gaskets, MK4 Nav, 2015 maps, M logo door lights, DICE Bluetooth and (non-DICE) DSP adapter.

  14. #14
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    Next thing to check is the cylinder compression - not worth doing much until that is done......
    Timm..2007 E64 650i Individual Sport..1999 E31 840ci Individual Sport..ex owner of 2000 E38 740..1999 E38 740i V8 M62..1998 E38 735i V8..1993 E32 730i V8..1988 E28 518i


    My BMW Repair YouTube Channel
    My Current 840ci Sport Individual
    My Current 650ci Sport Individual
    My E31 Repair and Information Website
    My E38 Repair and Information Website
    My E63/E64 Repair and Information Website

    Chase - Heroes to a generation

  15. #15
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    Sorry man you have to go thru this, this is really a mystery. Hope you will figure it out eventually!

  16. #16
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    I appreciate everyone's support on the forum and hope one day I can repay it. I will try to get the compression numbers this evening and will post it.
    2001 740i M Sport, built 2/2001.
    Repairs Completed: Valey Pan, Intake gaskets, Oil Separator Valve, Valve cover gaskets, Upper timing chain cover gaskets, Vanos solenoid gaskets, Oil pan gasket, Overflow tank (4X), Overflow tank cap (3X), Overflow tank bleeder screw (6X), Most coolant hoses (1 or 2 left to the heater core), Flushed heater core, inspected auxiliary pump and heater valves, timing chain tensioner, Radiator, water pump, thermostat, sway bar links, 4 Wheel alignment
    Needed repairs: Upper & Lower control arms, power steering leaks, another oil leak, replace seal for Large water pump pipe inlet
    Mods: Soft Angel Eyes LEDs, blacked out grill, Painted valve cover gaskets, MK4 Nav, 2015 maps, M logo door lights, DICE Bluetooth and (non-DICE) DSP adapter.

  17. #17
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    Not good ....tested cylinder 1-4 and got the following:
    1 : 0 PSI (tried this 5-6 times as I couldn't believe it)
    2 : 150+/- 1 PSI
    3 : 150+/- 1 PSI
    4 : 150+/- 1 PSI

    Is it possible that Cylinder 1 is fuel washed? There was no knocking or anything that I can hear as far as valve hitting cylinder or anything like that.

    Would putting an ounce or 2 of oil in there and cranking it be the next step?

    This is not what I expected and was hoping it is an electric issue.

    Is the engine pretty much toast?
    2001 740i M Sport, built 2/2001.
    Repairs Completed: Valey Pan, Intake gaskets, Oil Separator Valve, Valve cover gaskets, Upper timing chain cover gaskets, Vanos solenoid gaskets, Oil pan gasket, Overflow tank (4X), Overflow tank cap (3X), Overflow tank bleeder screw (6X), Most coolant hoses (1 or 2 left to the heater core), Flushed heater core, inspected auxiliary pump and heater valves, timing chain tensioner, Radiator, water pump, thermostat, sway bar links, 4 Wheel alignment
    Needed repairs: Upper & Lower control arms, power steering leaks, another oil leak, replace seal for Large water pump pipe inlet
    Mods: Soft Angel Eyes LEDs, blacked out grill, Painted valve cover gaskets, MK4 Nav, 2015 maps, M logo door lights, DICE Bluetooth and (non-DICE) DSP adapter.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by al535e34 View Post
    Is the engine pretty much toast?
    No, but it's not an easy fix either. If I had to guess, you broke a valve. Or one is stuck open. But most likely a fix is going to involve removal of that head. And a valve job. Expense wise, if you did the work yourself, not too bad. If you have it done.... $$$. I'd guess 1500-2000?

    Before yanking the head, I would try to bore scope it, just to make SURE. But any time I've had 0 psi, it's been a burnt (broke) valve. Normally exhaust. You could remove the intake to see the intake valves, or the exhaust to see the exhaust valves if bore scoping isn't an option (at this price point, bore scoping should ALWAYS be an option however).

    The types of lifters engines like ours use don't really "break" like old style lifters with arms, and while they can stick, it would be strange to see one cause a valve to stay open. Worth checking into if the valves check out, but i wouldn't hold my breath on it being lifter related.

    I've gone through this exact same thing, twice, on a Toyota Minivan that liked to burn exhaust valves. (Figured out, too late, it was a clogged cat causing it)
    2001 740iL "Silver Beauty"
    1986 Porsche 951 "Silver Bullet"
    1987 Porsche 944 NA Auto (rebuilding for my son's first car)
    https://home.doonze.net/filepage.php <- BMW/Porsche doc's and files, work in progress

  19. #19
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    Thanks for the reply 951Dreams. I have a USB inspection camera and I tried quickly this morning to look at it. I did a quick inspection and it does look like the exhaust valve is open, but the image is not very clear. I will try to spend some time later today to get a better picture of it.

    Should I be rotating the engine while looking at the valves to see if it is/isn't moving or closing at some point? I'm not sure where in the stroke it is at at this point so not sure if the valve should be open or closed.
    Last edited by al535e34; 05-01-2018 at 10:45 AM.
    2001 740i M Sport, built 2/2001.
    Repairs Completed: Valey Pan, Intake gaskets, Oil Separator Valve, Valve cover gaskets, Upper timing chain cover gaskets, Vanos solenoid gaskets, Oil pan gasket, Overflow tank (4X), Overflow tank cap (3X), Overflow tank bleeder screw (6X), Most coolant hoses (1 or 2 left to the heater core), Flushed heater core, inspected auxiliary pump and heater valves, timing chain tensioner, Radiator, water pump, thermostat, sway bar links, 4 Wheel alignment
    Needed repairs: Upper & Lower control arms, power steering leaks, another oil leak, replace seal for Large water pump pipe inlet
    Mods: Soft Angel Eyes LEDs, blacked out grill, Painted valve cover gaskets, MK4 Nav, 2015 maps, M logo door lights, DICE Bluetooth and (non-DICE) DSP adapter.

  20. #20
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    What are the odds that I turn the ignition on a to rotate the engine and land at the same position with all valves open? I tried looking at the valves and I can see all valves open before and after I tried to turn the motor over via the starter.

    What size is the large nut on the harmonic balancer? I tried 24mm & 1 inch (26 mm) and were too small. 30mm is too big. Is it a 28? (which I don't have).

    I want to turn the engine by hand to make sure I get it in the right place where all valves should be closed on cylinder 1.
    2001 740i M Sport, built 2/2001.
    Repairs Completed: Valey Pan, Intake gaskets, Oil Separator Valve, Valve cover gaskets, Upper timing chain cover gaskets, Vanos solenoid gaskets, Oil pan gasket, Overflow tank (4X), Overflow tank cap (3X), Overflow tank bleeder screw (6X), Most coolant hoses (1 or 2 left to the heater core), Flushed heater core, inspected auxiliary pump and heater valves, timing chain tensioner, Radiator, water pump, thermostat, sway bar links, 4 Wheel alignment
    Needed repairs: Upper & Lower control arms, power steering leaks, another oil leak, replace seal for Large water pump pipe inlet
    Mods: Soft Angel Eyes LEDs, blacked out grill, Painted valve cover gaskets, MK4 Nav, 2015 maps, M logo door lights, DICE Bluetooth and (non-DICE) DSP adapter.

  21. #21
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    While I suppose you could have had the good (bad) luck of ending up exactly where you started, that would be somewhat weird. If the valves truly didn't move that would mean your cams aren't moving. I however don't see that you could have gotten this far if BOTH your chains were broke! For my money what your looking for is something along the lines of this:

    download (1).jpg

    If you can't get a good enough view to verify one way or another, my next suggestion is pull the valve cover so you can verify you didn't loose a spring on one of the valves for that cylinder. You could tell because a lifter wouldn't stay pressed up against the cam lob. If all the springs look good, next is pulling the intake to check the valves, then the exhaust manifold.

    You really don't want to start pulling the head till you can verify what the problem is. Just in case it's something weird and not a valve. And yes, you really want to be able to turn the engine over by hand.

    Let me add this however. I'd really double and triple check that 0 psi reading. To be honest it really should start and run even if you lost a valve. It would run like crap, but it should run. I also don't see how you would be getting misfire codes for the entire bank if only one cylinder was the problem. That 0 psi reading really surprised me. I'm giving you my opinions based on that info, but that info doesn't make much sense.

    If you can really, REALLY verify there is in fact 0 psi, my next step would be pulling that VC, so you can see what your looking at. Watch the cams and lifters move. The fact you got 150 on 3 of them, and only 0 on one indicates to me that your cams are moving. It shouldn't be possible to have 3 cylinders on the same bank with all 4 valves closed and only 1 with an open valve. My point is, all the info we have doesn't add up. We need more info. There are multiple possibilities here, but none that fit all your findings so far.
    2001 740iL "Silver Beauty"
    1986 Porsche 951 "Silver Bullet"
    1987 Porsche 944 NA Auto (rebuilding for my son's first car)
    https://home.doonze.net/filepage.php <- BMW/Porsche doc's and files, work in progress

  22. #22
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    I appreciate the guidance and this whole thing is driving me nuts and so bizarre. The car was running perfect before this happened, no hesitation, plenty of power and just came back from a spirited drive and was just driving slow in the community, so makes no sense how it died. It made me think I ran out of gas but nothing else came of it.

    I checked cylinder 1 pressure about 8 times as I couldn't believe it myself, but will do it one more time tonight. I'm hoping it's a valve spring but that still means pulling the head off...or can it be replaced in place? I was trying to think of the possibilities, but will have to pull the valve cover before I get ahead of myself.

    I'll report later tonight on findings form the compression test on cylinder 1.

    Thanks again for all the help!
    2001 740i M Sport, built 2/2001.
    Repairs Completed: Valey Pan, Intake gaskets, Oil Separator Valve, Valve cover gaskets, Upper timing chain cover gaskets, Vanos solenoid gaskets, Oil pan gasket, Overflow tank (4X), Overflow tank cap (3X), Overflow tank bleeder screw (6X), Most coolant hoses (1 or 2 left to the heater core), Flushed heater core, inspected auxiliary pump and heater valves, timing chain tensioner, Radiator, water pump, thermostat, sway bar links, 4 Wheel alignment
    Needed repairs: Upper & Lower control arms, power steering leaks, another oil leak, replace seal for Large water pump pipe inlet
    Mods: Soft Angel Eyes LEDs, blacked out grill, Painted valve cover gaskets, MK4 Nav, 2015 maps, M logo door lights, DICE Bluetooth and (non-DICE) DSP adapter.

  23. #23
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Bella Vista, Ar
    Posts
    274
    My Cars
    2001 BMW 740iL
    I've had my intake off, and the VC off, but that's as deep as I've gone on these. I've seen cars you could do the spring and valve seal with the head on, no idea if this is one. You can use compressed air to keep the valves shut and do work sometimes.

    But to be honest, if you've gotten the cams off, pulling the head would be nothing really. 95% of the work is getting the cams off. And to do anything with the valve the cam would have to come off.

    Keep us posted.
    2001 740iL "Silver Beauty"
    1986 Porsche 951 "Silver Bullet"
    1987 Porsche 944 NA Auto (rebuilding for my son's first car)
    https://home.doonze.net/filepage.php <- BMW/Porsche doc's and files, work in progress

  24. #24
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    VA
    Posts
    26
    My Cars
    2001 E38 740iM
    Not good news ... the upper back head bolt sheared off and jammed the exhaust cam.

    What are the odds of just fixing the timing, tightening the cam gear and it will fire?

    What's the effect of that head bolt being broken? is it possible to be able to take it out....assuming there's more of it left above the block to pull

    If it will run...I'll consider pulling the heads off and fixing it.


    image1.jpg
    2001 740i M Sport, built 2/2001.
    Repairs Completed: Valey Pan, Intake gaskets, Oil Separator Valve, Valve cover gaskets, Upper timing chain cover gaskets, Vanos solenoid gaskets, Oil pan gasket, Overflow tank (4X), Overflow tank cap (3X), Overflow tank bleeder screw (6X), Most coolant hoses (1 or 2 left to the heater core), Flushed heater core, inspected auxiliary pump and heater valves, timing chain tensioner, Radiator, water pump, thermostat, sway bar links, 4 Wheel alignment
    Needed repairs: Upper & Lower control arms, power steering leaks, another oil leak, replace seal for Large water pump pipe inlet
    Mods: Soft Angel Eyes LEDs, blacked out grill, Painted valve cover gaskets, MK4 Nav, 2015 maps, M logo door lights, DICE Bluetooth and (non-DICE) DSP adapter.

  25. #25
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Bella Vista, Ar
    Posts
    274
    My Cars
    2001 BMW 740iL
    That's a new one for me. Even with your video I'm not sure exactly what's going on there. Did it cause the cam to stop spinning? If so, did it not break your chain??? The journals should keep the cam itself in place. So I'm not exactly sure what happened here. But my guess is that if you fixed the problem it WOULD start and run. But I'd want to know more about that head bolt. And why it sheared off. NEVER seen that before.
    2001 740iL "Silver Beauty"
    1986 Porsche 951 "Silver Bullet"
    1987 Porsche 944 NA Auto (rebuilding for my son's first car)
    https://home.doonze.net/filepage.php <- BMW/Porsche doc's and files, work in progress

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