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Thread: Codes don't stop. It's been a few mos. now. - New computer time!

  1. #1
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    Codes don't stop. It's been a few mos. now. - New computer time!

    I've owned the my car for a few mos. now. I've made several posts about this car for help and also project ideas. But I've been unable to make any actual progress on the build with the consistent and pesky OBII codes/CEL always coming back. Every time I fix something... another part appears to break.

    Currently the car mis-fires like a mother**** I mean morning start, you can literally see the chop in the exhaust fumes. The car rocks back and forth as if it was an old chopped V8... but it is certainly not.

    Since I've already put enough money into this car to have a solid down payment on a fuken' Mustang GT or Zl1 camaro... I'm going to do the most logical thing; Drop $600 on a new computer!

    I do believe the part I will need is this : https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...hTerm=computer

    Just wondering what the immobilizer sequence is? It is mentioned in "fitment details" on Advanced Auto Parts. Can this be done without a tuning shop?

    I've brain stormed ideas over and over and over again. I've come down to just a few that make sense. Have a good look:

    1) Bad computer
    2) K&N cold air intake is throwing off air/fuel ratios
    3) Vacuum leak where my smoke tester can not reach.
    4) The car is possessed/cursed. - Clearly this has to be true?

    P.S. - On the bright side. The car has never left me stranded! It always starts, and it always runs. A -> B ? No problem, just enjoy the stuttering and low fuel economy. Currently 15 MPG
    Last edited by JimLev; 04-21-2018 at 02:44 PM. Reason: NO PROFANITY, HAVEN'T YOU READ THE RULES????

  2. #2
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    What leads you to believe it's the computer? What codes are being thrown? Provide the description of each code. If you suspect #2, what are the fuel trim numbers?

    BTW, we don't allow profanity on this forum.


    Ed in San Jose '97 540i 6 speed aspensilber over aubergine leather. Build date 3/97. Golden Gate Chapter BMW CCA Nr 62319.

  3. #3
    JimLev's Avatar
    JimLev is offline Artifically Aspirated Moderator
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    As edjack mentioned no profanity or you'll be tossed into the slammer for a week or so depending upon my mood.
    What codes? The DME hardly ever goes bad.
    If you did buy a new one it would need to be programmed to match your car S/N and EWS.

  4. #4
    geargrinder's Avatar
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    Threepeat. These German DME's (Bosch or Siemens depending on the engine) are hardened mega durable rock solid units. Nearly every single shop or individual who says he has a bad computer is wrong. Bad shops often make this recommendation and waste huge amounts of owners time and do-re.

    The rare exception is usually something really oddball/unusual, like the way the electric thermostat in the V8's can puke coolant back up the wire housing to the DME and then coolant rots out the pins at the connector. I don't think that's a thing for an I6, but, you can check and see if you have any signs of rot and contamination at the connector.

    What IS a thing for some M52/M54's, seems to be bad engine wiring harnesses. I know of at least 2 or 3 guys around here that've had that problem, and it tends to be enragingly intermittent and unpredictable and annoying. Tried desperately to find the actual wiring problem in the harness or in a connector, but couldn't, eventually a whole harness swap fixed everything like magic. Must be something chafes inside the sheathing and creates an intermittent that changes with temp and humidity is all I can guess.

    If you DID need a new computer (aka you find the DME connector is all corroded and contaminated), PM me. The ideal thing to do is a low-level clone of your old one while it still works. Then the immob ("EWS" in BMW terms) gets copied over and the 'new' (used usually) DME looks digitally exactly like the factory one. Virtually no regular indy shops know how to do that. Some tuners may. The ECU specialty shops do, but they often charge an arm and a scrotum for it.
    2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
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  5. #5
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    I've gotten every Vacuum leak and fuel trim code in the book as well as every part in the engine bay, including but not limited to: (slight hyperbole)

    When I first got the car I replaced the MAF sensor
    and had to purchase a new fuel filter b/c prev. owner bypass fuel regulator to get around clogged filter.
    So I replaced regulator why i was @ it as well
    Was throwing regulator codes^^

    Throttle body position sensor (I've since purchased and replaced throttle body) Code not shown anymore
    P0125 - Check owner manual - Currently shown
    Fuel trim bank 2 - one of these is currently shown
    Fuel trim bank 1
    Cylnder 1 misfire - Currently in OBD
    Knock sensor 1 - currently in OBD
    Thermostat housing malfunction - replaced code not showing
    Camshaft position sensor - replaced but still showing code
    02 Sensor 1 bank 1 - replaced- Code not shown anymore
    02 Sensor 2 bank 1 - repalced - Code not shown anymore
    02 sensor 1 bank 2 - purchased part, not replaced - Currently showing - Actually think the heat from attempting to remove the 2nd sensor , set this one off.
    02 sensor 2 bank 2 - purchased part, not replaced - Currently showing
    There is something I read related to these 02 sensor's about fuel cutoff on down-coast

    I was initially going to purchase a Chip or Laptop on ebay to disabled the rear 02 sensors. But there was a problem with my order and I never got back around to it. I figured I'd just try and fix it. But post cat sensors are completely seized and partially stripped.

    I am sure there was more, but I am forgetting some. I'll check my phone and edit post.

    Rear 02's sensor's both seized and muff bolts are stripped. It appears someone was already trying to get @ these. So I myself cannot do the work to get these out. Idk what to even do.

    My reasoning to believe DME or perhaps yes, the harness, is due to the fact the car came with amplifier wires in the trunk.... the ground appears to be charred, and when I went to jump my friend @ a concert, the ground came off the battery when I tried to remove jumper cables. Half my rear lights appear to have blown since then as well.

    I assume he was running an insane amp, and grounded out the car or something. I am not an electrician, nor do I have any desire to be one. This is where my DIY comes to an end, as I really don't know where to start looking, or what to do.

    Furthermore, I've attempted a parasitic draw test on the car to find shorts. But there is so many dang* relay/fuse boxes it is so hard to find. PLUS the interior charging/aux ports do not turn off when the car is off; thus there is ALWAYS parasitic draw.
    Last edited by Marashz; 04-23-2018 at 01:39 PM.

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    geargrinder's Avatar
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    Hoo boy. That’s a lotta stuff.

    • INPA etc software setup would be very helpful if you learn how use it. Not so you just can read codes but reading live data is huge. But...l
    • No that software setup won’t let you code out O2’s, not even close. You need to read, edit the actual tune (ie be able to edit hex and know exactly where the right bits and bytes are) and be able to rechcksum it, and then flash it afterwards. That’s WAY deep down the rabbit hole from just some inpa setup. That usually requires two to three different pieces of software, depending on the ECU platform. And you need to be really good at that crap.
    • With a car that is has significant issues as this one sounds, coding things out to make errors go away is massively retarded anyway. That’s the exact equivalent of going into your house and putting bigger fuses in because they keep blowing, instead of fixing the short that is about to burn the house down.
    • I don’t mean to be negative. It may be if you find the two or three key things that are wrong, a whole bunch of stuff will start working and problems will start going away. But hiding it with code-out is a really effin bad idea.


    More replies in a second...
    2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
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    2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
    2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)

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  8. #8
    geargrinder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marashz View Post
    including but not limited to: (slight hyperbole)
    Dude it sounds like you’re making actually incremental progress on stuff, I think you just need to keep knocking things off one at a time.

    Quote Originally Posted by Marashz View Post
    But post cat sensors are completely seized and partially stripped.Rear 02's sensor's both seized and muff bolts are stripped. It appears someone was already trying to get @ these. So I myself cannot do the work to get these out. Idk what to even do.
    You mean 02 sensors are stripped? Or you mean the actual muffler section bolts are stripped? Either way, it’s not impossible for a DIY repair. I have cut muffler bolts off with cars on jack stands using and and all: sawzalls, angle grinders, hacksaws, and nut splitters. For the O2’s, if they are all forked upon the outside, then who knows how bad they are on the inside... they aren’t salaveage probably so use heavy tools. A pipe / monkey wrench is a possibility. Throw a torch on them first if they are really seized in there. I’d try nominally on car but if it gave me trouble I’d pull the exhaust and screw w it on the ground with extreme predjudice.

    Quote Originally Posted by Marashz View Post
    My reasoning to believe DME or perhaps yes, the harness, is due to the fact the car came with amplifier wires in the trunk.... the ground appears to be charred, and when I went to jump my friend @ a concert, the ground came off the battery when I tried to remove jumper cables. Half my rear lights appear to have blown since then as well.
    Car sounds like an electrical nightmare. But that doesn’t mean you can’t fix it. Are half of your rear lights really blown? Or maybe they just have a bad connection, including maybe they lost their ground.

    The charred cable sounds bad I totally agree with you.

    In regards to this loose battery ground cable, that seems to be not uncommon on these cars. I just posted about it yesterday. I suspect on cars where the cable is been on and off again and again and some d1ckb@g idiots have over tightened it that the soft lead terminal gets distorted and can’t be clamped down as tight. I don’t have that problem on my cars (because they arent effed up POS ) but we seem to see it very frequently.

    Quote Originally Posted by Marashz View Post
    I've attempted a parasitic draw test on the car to find shorts. But there is so many dang* relay/fuse boxes it is so hard to find. PLUS the interior charging/aux ports do not turn off when the car is off; thus there is ALWAYS parasitic draw.
    Do you understand how sleep mode works on these cars? You have to leave them alone for 13 minutes or so, and then the car will go to sleep. Before that the car will still be half awake.If you open a door or do anything else significant it wakes it up. So for testing like that you want to open the door(s), set up your test rig, and then wait a while until it really goes to sleep. Otherwise you open the door to go check something and it wakes the car back up again and you can’t tell what the drain is because a bunch of the modules have woken up again.

    Agree they’re complicated as hell, but are you using the factory WDS (wiring diagrams)? BMWplanet.net has all the factory wiring diagrams and is awesome (EXCEPT You need to load some obsolete old version of a browser on your computer and if you ever let it update it will stop working so that part is a giant effing pain in your AAA hole). If you can’t figure out how to access the wirIng diagrams, it makes your life immensely better in a complicated troubleshooting situation like this.
    2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
    2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
    2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
    2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)

    Former:

    1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
    1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)


  9. #9
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    Did you reset adaptations (with INPA or similar software) when you reinstalled the throttle body?. Did you also preload the round connector for the throttle body (also know as MDK) before inserting and rotating right to click?

    I understand you said you are not getting MDK codes. But some of your issues still sound MDK-related.
    Last edited by effduration; 04-24-2018 at 12:18 PM.

  10. #10
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    Cylinder 1 misfire. When was the last time you did sparkplugs or a coilpack? And checked your valve cover gasket for leaking oil into the sparkplug Wells?

    Mine was so old it leaked and was causing all sorts of misfires and shorted out two coils.

  11. #11
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    I might have found the end of the road (Oh please god). Below I will post some pictures of the Engine bay portion of the wiring harness... Since the engine bay is where it appears the previous owner MESSED with the most. There are wires hanging all over the place, especially near the headlights. But I am pleased to say, that the car might be fixed. I might actually be able to focus on the bad rear control arm now, or maybe getting an LSD, and putting in my Super Charger. But we'll see... trying not to get my hopes up. But I am presumably already doomed for disappointment.

    I got all hyped up on caffeine this fine evening and decided I'd do something productive, since I had off work today. I went outside to take some pictures of the wiring harness and I figured I would entertain "itsbrokeagain" and my gear-head co-worker. So I checked the coils, unplugging Cylinder 1 first. No change in engine idle. Continued to pull one at a time, the rest all changing idle. Go figure.... Cylinder 1 coil was dead. So I thought why the f*** not. Went to my good ol' Advanced Auto parts near me, purchased the part, and BAM! THE CAR RUNS LIKE A BOSS, WHAT CAN I SAY MAN? Idles lower, very responsive throttle, and absolutely no chop in the exhaust. I cleared the codes and I will go on 120 mile drive tomorrow to see if they come back. According to what was currently showing on my module, the only other thing could be bad is the rear 02 sensors. But I do believe the misfire was setting them off.

    Maybe there is a God. Thank you so much @ itsbrokeagain. I was over thinking everything and I should have just went back to the basics. Though everything else I replaced was surely broken... or was it? I really am not looking forward to the CEL again. I am so not looking to change the wiring harness.

    Car still needs a tune up, and I absolutely need to do oil change tomorrow. I really hope I never have to post on here again... no offense. Thanks to everyone whom messaged me and posted in all my threads. Best community ever!

    BTW - I've driven fast cars, and for a daily this thing feels quick when it's running good. Any opinions? Am I just too used to my 4-Cylinder Toyota Yaris for a daily? Surely it needs a LSD though... I want to feel my sphincter when I dump her at 4200RPM, and yes the clutch is upgraded(the only thing the prev. owner did right). Total ricer mobile as of this moment; POS even has a K&N. +Mseries vinyl down the rear doors and a M5 bumper... makes me cringe.

    Photos: - Not sure that this was factory... I sure hope BMW's wire management is cleaner than this.

    https://s9.postimg.cc/nwsxrawi7/IMG_0022.jpg
    https://s9.postimg.cc/q1dasdipb/IMG_0021.jpg
    https://s9.postimg.cc/ombq3o4rj/IMG_0023.jpg
    https://s9.postimg.cc/mhrd2laun/IMG_0024.jpg

    Sorry for spelling, grammar, etc. - Had a few, and am a little excited... can't handle myself right now. Actually feel like a girl scout that just sold cookies.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by effduration View Post
    Did you reset adaptations (with INPA or similar software) when you reinstalled the throttle body?. Did you also preload the round connector for the throttle body (also know as MDK) before inserting and rotating right to click?

    I understand you said you are not getting MDK codes. But some of your issues still sound MDK-related.
    Yes, all was done properly. Used a local shop for computerized portion.(INPA)
    Last edited by JimLev; 04-27-2018 at 06:25 PM. Reason: Watch it, still to close to profanity. Vacation mode is just a click away.

  12. #12
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    @GearGrinder

    Absolutely had no idea about sleep mode; Thanks for the intel. But It still doesn't make any sense. My phone charges when car is left for hours. I've charged my R/C car batteries over night in there while I was camping. Also my amp remote wire is hooked up to the auxiliary ports in car. AMP never turns off unless I flip the switch I also installed.

    As for knocking stuff out, I do believe your right. The car honestly might have just been neglected. It was a salvage title. Given I purchased this car on absolute impulse, I never had time to find out why. In-fact, I took the mans word for being a clean title. I had no idea until he already had cash in hand and I was at DMV. I am going to car-fax tomorrow.

    Half of the rear lights are in-fact out. I did not check the connection. I assume they blew when the ground (closest to them) got disconnected whilst the car was running(never stalled & during night-time when turned on). I am going to purchase one new light bulb tomorrow and place it in each position. Checking the connection at the same time. Reverse lights have been out since purchase. But I believe they're disconnected for some odd reason. The world cannot explain the previous owner's mindset; He did weird stuff man, weird stuff.

    Yes the rear 02 sensors are completely wrenched. SAME goes for the exhaust bolts. I will have to disconnect it from the head and cut off a portion of the exhaust. I'll go to junkyard and purchase just the section between head and exhaust bolts and weld it back to head portion. Unless you have better idea?

    Going to use neighbors lift tomorrow. As of tonight I have my motivation back. I just needed to remember it was worth my time. I mean hell, I've jumped money into this car, such that I could buy 3 of them. I just wasn't getting any results and honestly... I started to feel extremely deterred. IDK why I did it to begin with. I suppose I just like to fix stuff and I am extremely stubborn determined individual.

    I hope that $75 ignition coil was 'it'. At least for a little while. Haven't actually been able to enjoy the car yet. I purchased it 4-5 months ago.
    Last edited by Marashz; 04-26-2018 at 11:52 PM.

  13. #13
    geargrinder's Avatar
    geargrinder is offline Having No Trouble Here BMW CCA Member
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    LOL. Great that that coil sorted things for you - nice quick win!

    Quote Originally Posted by Marashz View Post
    BTW - I've driven fast cars, and for a daily this thing feels quick when it's running good. Any opinions? Am I just too used to my 4-Cylinder Toyota Yaris for a daily? Surely it needs a LSD though... I want to feel my sphincter when I dump her at 4200RPM, and yes the clutch is upgraded(the only thing the prev. owner did right).
    Sorry to tell you but, that car is pretty slow. First time I drove a 528 I was sad cuz I wanted to like it so much (of course I was coming out of a 20V I5 turbo Audi so... M52 felt like indeed a Yaris...) . ;^)


    Quote Originally Posted by Marashz View Post
    Photos: - Not sure that this was factory... I sure hope BMW's wire management is cleaner than this.
    GAH. Yes and No.

    OK - the cloth and vinyl electrical tape, yes, is BMW factory. I know - sometimes it looks like some guy wrapped it up after 5 beers on a weekend. When I first got my M3 I was all "WTF is THIS!?!?"
    And to some degree - even the factory wires in the Ebox sometimes are a bit of a rats nest, surprisingly. Some of them are apparently 'supposed' to be a bit loose in there.

    ON THE OTHER HAND... WTF with all those splices in the Ebox! Uggly! Clearly the guy tried to fix something that was all screwed up. Thats hardware store wiring splice crap man, not exactly high-spec. Nasty. Those splices blow. I mean I'll use them once in a while for something around the house or some low-tech project, or for audio, but, definitely not for anything critical unless its absolutely no alternative.

    And do you see how with the big main wire bundles going into the Ebox, the end-boot seals on each bundle have been pulled outwards away from the box? Those are supposed to be pushed up on the wires and slip down onto the slots of the box to (duh) keep water from being able to sweep in there... and to keep the sharp end of the box from cutting into them... For instance for the bundle that runs down the fender, the first block on the bundle slots/locks into the edge of the ebox. Then moving forward, that next 2nd rubber block is supposed to slot/lock into the slot in the metal ridge there underneath the cabin airbox, to keep water out of THERE too.

    And of course that broken wire... who knows what is up there...

    Oh and in the full Ebox pic - that vinyl plastic wire sheating - the split-ribbed one with 2 red and white wires in it - pretty sure thats some PO-added who-knows-what.

    Quote Originally Posted by Marashz View Post
    Absolutely had no idea about sleep mode; Thanks for the intel. But It still doesn't make any sense. My phone charges when car is left for hours. I've charged my R/C car batteries over night in there while I was camping. Also my amp remote wire is hooked up to the auxiliary ports in car. AMP never turns off unless I flip the switch I also installed.
    1. German standard has always for lighter/accessory plugs to be hot all the time, unswitched. They aren't on the sleep circuit. Different deal.
    2. That amp is sh177y install. There's a nice white wire in the back where the factory amp goes that is the amp turn-on line from the headunit. It works perfectly to turn amps on/off, and IS on the sleep circuit so it won't drain forever. Easy fix, won't have to use your switch anymore.

    Quote Originally Posted by Marashz View Post
    I am going to car-fax tomorrow.
    That might be depressing. Sometimes you don't want to know, you know? Like when some guy is "Oh you're dating LUCY!?!? Oh... man... She used to be with Doug and then Steve and some other guy... you know about her, right?..." Yeah shutup I don't want to know...

    Quote Originally Posted by Marashz View Post
    I am going to purchase one new light bulb tomorrow and place it in each position. Checking the connection at the same time. Reverse lights have been out since purchase. But I believe they're disconnected for some odd reason. The world cannot explain the previous owner's mindset; He did weird stuff man, weird stuff.
    Instead of droppin dough on lightbulbs first, just use a voltmeter back there. Clip one side to ground and test each terminal with the various lights on.

    From that ugly Ebox mess, lord only knows what is going on back there.

    Quote Originally Posted by Marashz View Post
    Yes the rear 02 sensors are completely wrenched. SAME goes for the exhaust bolts. I will have to disconnect it from the head and cut off a portion of the exhaust. I'll go to junkyard and purchase just the section between head and exhaust bolts and weld it back to head portion. Unless you have better idea?
    You really need to cut off sections of the exhaust? I mean that might be fine/easy but might be overkill. Take pix of the exhaust parts when you get it on the lift tomorrow.
    Last edited by geargrinder; 04-27-2018 at 09:06 AM.
    2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
    2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
    2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
    2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)

    Former:

    1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
    1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)


  14. #14
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    I'll post some pictures with exhaust soon. About to do oil change.

    I was afraid to wire into the stock car amplifier. Because I had just assumed the 'PO' didn't wire in the new head unit correctly. Because if I am not mistaken, you have to do something special to keep the stock amp. Car doesn't feel amplified what-so-ever... then again it's 2000 era. I'll give it a try, cus'... why not? Sounds like a really easy install, and there are video's all over YouTube for it.

    Overthinking everything again, good call on the voltmeter.

    I always confuse recalling 02 sensor codes. BUT only ONE code came back. 02 sensor bank 2 sensor 2 (Post cat, the fairly reachable one ).

    I'm gonna go ahead and tuck those wires as best I can; without disconnecting or breaking any D:

    Impulse purchased this as a quick fix: https://www.ebay.com/itm/262600518671 - Having both rear 02 sensors disabled until I re-cupe my finances. Might be a problem for a real inspection.. I doubt emissions would pass. But I know a guy, who knows a guy, with stickers. If I have to, I'll place my Yaris sticker on her. Window tint won't pass anyways anymore, NYS laws n' shizz.

    P.S. - I'm gonna go ahead an not "Check the Car-Fax". You've got a really good point. I actually really don't wanna know what kind of diseases my car has; AKA flood or other. Would explain any electrical issues tho.
    Last edited by Marashz; 04-27-2018 at 02:57 PM.

  15. #15
    geargrinder's Avatar
    geargrinder is offline Having No Trouble Here BMW CCA Member
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    Just pull the small white wire at the factory stock amp. The stock amp blows.

    If youre on a tight budget, I'll tell you right now, that was a waste of $160.

    Shoulda spent it on weed and whisky, you'd get more satisfaction out of it.

    A really smart coupla guys posted this recently I seem to recall:

    Quote Originally Posted by JimLev View Post
    The DME hardly ever goes bad.
    Quote Originally Posted by geargrinder View Post
    Threepeat. These German DME's (Bosch or Siemens depending on the engine) are hardened mega durable rock solid units. Nearly every single shop or individual who says he has a bad computer is wrong.
    Last edited by geargrinder; 04-27-2018 at 03:10 PM.
    2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
    2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
    2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
    2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)

    Former:

    1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
    1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)


  16. #16
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    Well, I never got a chance to get to the exhaust the other day. It seems that after my oil change I decided to go get a new Camshaft Position Sensor on the warranty from Autozone. Since that code is the only other code that also came back. SO, I dealt with a wrong sensor, breaking my CCV hose clip and running around to several stores trying to find the right sensor. But I finally got er' and............... when I went for test drive, I noticed it was Idling high, like couldn't even coast it felt like throttle was stuck. So on my way back, of course it's a piece of sht bimmer, with trash engineering... so the EML light came on, and I had to get tow'd. What a fking night dude. Bought the whiskey amyways, great hangover right now. Never will ever again buy a BMW, EVER. I'm gonna part this car out, and laugh @ every idiot that purchases a part. BMW's are 2 yr lease cars.. after that trash. All stories I've heard, are true. Older M3 chasis are good for a swap,after you remove every factory part that will break on you.

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    EML code - Throttle pedal position sensor. (e39 does not have this - cable from pedal to throttle body, with throttle position sensor in throttle body)

    I will take a look at my CCV hose. I taped it, since it was still sealed regardless of clip. But maybe It cracked when I moved it out of way. I'll order one now, but it'll take a few days. Regardless of how much I hate this car, I need it until I can get my Yaris back from Family member. Loaned it out after an accident.

    It's possible that this sensor is bad too. There are bad reviews about them. Duralast from autozone. - Not OEM

  18. #18
    geargrinder's Avatar
    geargrinder is offline Having No Trouble Here BMW CCA Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marashz View Post
    it's a piece of sht bimmer, with trash engineering...
    Let me fix that for you...

    Quote Originally Posted by Marashz View Post
    I bought a total and complete piece of junk that was utterly effed up by the previous owner, and, run off and buy the cheapo junk parts from CheapoZone, and now I'm totally bizarrely blaming engineers in Germany for those actions on my part...
    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by Marashz View Post
    EML code - Throttle pedal position sensor. (e39 does not have this - cable from pedal to throttle body, with throttle position sensor in throttle body)
    What are you using for codes? IF its a generic crappo code reader from RetardZone or whatever, then it will give you misleading info because the codes are 'generic' and required to be more or less implemented for any car. Yes you do have what we call a "TPS" type sensor, its in the throttle body as you say. Don't get wound up about the word 'pedal'.

    Sounds like maybe the throttle IS stuck to me.
    2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
    2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
    2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
    2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)

    Former:

    1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
    1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)


  19. #19
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    I took a look at the throttle cable. I even unhooked the cable to see if that would make difference but, the engine is still idling high. Leads me to believe it needs another re-learn. It makes sense, no? If you do a relearn while the car isn't running 100% and has several broken parts; then you fix said parts (especially something as important as intake related - cam sensor) it would idle higher... because it's running better.

    Scanner is not generic crap, it is just not INPA. YES it does give generic codes for BMW's; as most American scanners do. I got it from snap-on truck @ work. Not sure where you get your parts from, but Advance and Autozone have OEM parts. I thought a life-time warranty Duralast would suffice.. m/b. Regardless that is a mistake on my end; not either store's.

    I am sorry for any amount of disrespect. Your work, and many of the individuals here are amazing. I am half of the Mechanic you are. I am trying to learn... Self-taught 20 years old. I am just very frustrated. Thank you for your help sir.

    ... I am sorry. Regardless of the talk about BMW and my experience so far; the engineers are still engineers.. something I am not. I have no business to talk sh!t.

    I fixed the wiring harnesses going into DME; so they'd be 'safe' from water. Too my surprise, I found some more interesting things. It appears the car either reached extreme temperatures, such that it melted the plastic around wires coming from cabin.. or it was on fire. I also found more disconnected wires. It appears I might have to get a wiring harness and plug everything back in. Unsure what these run for in price? There is also a picture of a fuse. It is not blown; just appears to have either also been affected by heat, or maybe just odd looking. From above, it actually appears blown.

    https://s9.postimg.cc/60q09zbnz/IMG_0031.jpg
    https://s9.postimg.cc/spf79k8hb/IMG_0033.jpg
    https://s9.postimg.cc/radmkuf3z/IMG_0034.jpg
    https://s9.postimg.cc/3w5n8xcm7/IMG_0035.jpg
    https://s9.postimg.cc/evqukjar3/IMG_0037.jpg
    https://s9.postimg.cc/9kbxztwe7/IMG_0038.jpg - Green and black wire; coming from second to last connector to the left. Not attached to Seimen's DME.
    Last edited by Marashz; 04-30-2018 at 08:39 PM.

  20. #20
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    I do have determination. I don't have a lot of money. But I do have a job, and love for cars. I dream of one day having something nice. Anything above 300WHP and a fun exhaust, would make me a happy camper. It's an expensive hobby. But ever since my first ride in a 1000+whp drag beast; I've never wanted anything more. I was 10 years old then, and I still have the 10 year old smile when I think about it. It's something else when you see the sky in the front wind-shield.

    I've thought again and again and again about getting a stock car. Like a 2016 Mustang GT. My credit is fantastic for my age.... But It doesn't feel right. All those horses, but no personality. I could make this car have 300-350 WHP with some work and upgrades. It'd be expensive; but for some reason I'd rather do that. Maybe because it's got me in it? My hands have touched everything and I know what's done to the car, and it has a little personality. 450 BHP is **** when you owe 25G's and you're afraid to bump the fender. Plus every other stock GT is on your level. Not every other 00' 528I is gonna be @ my level. It's weird, maybe you guys get it?

    But regardless; should I stop? Should I stop putting money into this car. I've been trying to figure it out myself. But I think I need someone to answer that question for me. It's like gambling; when should I stop? I mean.. cars are always going down in value. But when do you call it quits? When is it too much, and when is enough, enough? I might never win with this car, or I might be right there, and I just need a little more patience. But I won't know If I give up.

    Also what do I do when I fix it? Do I sell it and run like a mad man who just stole a bunch of cash? Do I part it out? Or do I drive the shit out of it, until I decide I've gotten my money back? Or will it break again? So frustrating.

    Looking for guidance from you guys. I don't have any from anyone else who likes cars. Just my bank adviser smacking me on the hand (Fiance).
    Last edited by JimLev; 04-30-2018 at 10:24 PM. Reason: Don't you remember what I told you??????

  21. #21
    geargrinder's Avatar
    geargrinder is offline Having No Trouble Here BMW CCA Member
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    Yeah man. I hear you. Appreciate your speaking from the heart.

    There IS something to be said for "unique build" factor vs "just another boring mustang etc". That's totally cool. Respect.

    But still. Even in the "I'd rather make my build off beat" category, you still should consider "bang for buck" in terms of both cost and effort.

    Honestly an E39 - as much as I love them - just kinda blows for big-power bang-for-buck. Even giving it "road less traveled" "unique-itude" bonus points.

    The only possible exception there would maybe be a TURBO M/S52 build in an E39, of which there are like 2 or 3 that have ever been heard of. You basically would leverage the decent bang for buck experience and knowledge of the turbo E36 crowd, and stick it in the E39. However, that s a BIG "car is off the road for a longtime and still good $$$" project. And the E39 is always a higher cost/maintenance chassis. Short on choices, everything costs more.

    If you want a mod/build car: You probably are best off fixin that (no disrespect) total complete POS junker (ok so yes disrespect) up to a point of being OK then sell it and run away and regroup. Consider better cost-benefit platforms like E36 or some Audis or even (eeegadz) some of the Japanese cars. Make your first mod build car a better platform choice than the E39.

    On the other hand what you want is just a nice semi sporty / semi luxurious daily driver, then fixing up the 528 might be fine. But it is a kinda crappy mod platform if what you want is to really build something.

    Oh. And honestly mostly (some exceptions) any parts that the TardoZone or AdvanceCrappoParts has that fit an E39 are the real shi77y parts. Not close to OE quality for most part. (Disclaimer I do have autocraft batteries in 2 cars at the momes, but batteries are a bit of a different story) Start buying yer stuff from FCPeuro. Probably 2 days regular USPS to Rottenchester from them, cheap prices, muthafrakkin lifetime warranty.
    2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
    2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
    2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
    2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)

    Former:

    1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
    1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)


  22. #22
    JimLev's Avatar
    JimLev is offline Artifically Aspirated Moderator
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    You could fix up the 528, sell it and get a 540, that isn't quite a 300hp ride but it's a lot quicker than a 528.

    PS, I sent you a PM. Please read it.

  23. #23
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    Thanks for the responses, something to ponder. I'll try and keep the language clean Jimmy boi.

    Yea the idea was something 'sporty'/quick with luxary features. Just to keep up with the Hondas and maybe get side-ways at an event. That's about it. I am not SUPER crazy about having 600+ WHP. It is just a bit much unless you're thinking about going to track all the time and draging her. Although a drag car would be fun, it seems more expensive than anything I could ever afford.

    I think I'll do what you're saying. Maybe get the e39 to a point where it is safe and reliable. Then GTFO

    I was thinking an old Dodge Dart or maybe Mustang Fox body. I also looked at Nissan 240's and Mazda Miata's. Haven't decided...

    Considering also an LS swap or big daddy v8. So I prefer a chasis that will accept a donner.

  24. #24
    geargrinder's Avatar
    geargrinder is offline Having No Trouble Here BMW CCA Member
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    Or a Blitzen.
    2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
    2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
    2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
    2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)

    Former:

    1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
    1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)


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