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Thread: Help! E90 Rear Window Operating Gremlin

  1. #1
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    Help! E90 Rear Window Operating Gremlin

    Hello All. First time poster here. I've owned a 2007 328i since new. About 5 years ago, I started experiencing a strange, intermittent problem with operating the rear driver's side window. It will go down normally, but refuse to come up. It will make a brief effort, the glass moving perhaps a quarter inch, but fail to go up, then retract fully to the down position. I will try opening and closing the door, operating it from both the driver switch, and from the rear window switch. Same result. Then, about the time I am ready to give up and take it to my mechanic, it will miraculously start working again. It checks out completely normal, no faults shown on the computer diagnostics, etc. I have not had them take the door apart, and am reluctant to start randomly replacing expensive parts in a "shotgun" approach. It happens infrequently, about once a year when it first started, but now 3 times in the last six months.

    Any help in solving this mysterious problem greatly appreciated!
    Last edited by sascha66; 04-21-2018 at 07:36 AM. Reason: typo

  2. #2
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    What are the sounds when you attempt to raise the window and it refuses to go up? This will tell us if it’s a mechanical or an electrical issue. That is, it’s likely a mechanical issue if you can hear the motor trying to raise the window, while if it’s all quiet the issue is likely electrical.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by MarcoZandrini View Post
    What are the sounds when you attempt to raise the window and it refuses to go up? This will tell us if it’s a mechanical or an electrical issue. That is, it’s likely a mechanical issue if you can hear the motor trying to raise the window, while if it’s all quiet the issue is likely electrical.
    It makes a very quick "thunk" sound, then is silent.

  4. #4
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    So, no noise after the “thunk.” When the window is operating normally does it’s sounds differ from those of the other rear window? Does it sound like it’s binding? Is it slower? How far up does the glass move before the “thunk”?

    The lift mechanism is pretty simple. Here’s the link to it:

    http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=51_5731

    I’m wondering if the lift assembly motor is stopping because it senses the window jamming even though, from your description, it’s not.

  5. #5
    dworthy's Avatar
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    +1

    Normally when those window regulators start to crunch or pop, they are on the way out. The cable has a plug built on the center of it, and that connects to the mech. If it slips out, then the window will stay in place and the motor will go the rest of the way.
    Darin
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  6. #6
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    Correct. No noise after the "thunk."

    When the window operates (99 precent of the time) it sounds perfectly normal, and operates with the same speed and smoothness as the rest of the windows. No sign of binding, or any abnormality. Then, when the gremlin goes to sleep, usually after a few hours of frustration, it resumes normal operation.

    The window moves perhaps 1/4 inch when it tries to operate. You basically have to look down into the slot to see it move. Barely comes up even to the top of the rubber rain fairings.

    My mechanic also suggested it could be sensing a blockage and activating the self-arresting safety feature. Is there a fix for that?

    In searching the archives on other parts of the forum, I saw a reference to some sort of "cable regulator" that I did not see referenced in the window schematic. Any thoughts on that?

    Thanks in advance!

  7. #7
    dworthy's Avatar
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    That is the most common failure on the window regulators, and the electric motors are very quiet. I will see about taking a picture and posting it up on one of the front regulators that has failed, and how it relates to the rears.
    Darin
    Current:
    16 220i Active Tourer Platinsilver MET (C08)/Dakota Black (PDSW), P7ACA, P7LDA, P7LHA, P9BDA, 6sp Manual - Wife's new toy!
    05 325it Electric Red(438)/Gray(N6TT) ZCW, ZSP 5sp Manual Back set cover, trunk mat, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield, and mud flaps! Mr. Wagon My new Winter car.
    05 M3 Imolarot II(405)/Gray(N5TT) ZCW, ZPP 6sp Manual C.F. Lip, CSL diffuser, SSK, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield and a trunk liner! Mr. Go_Fast Stored for the Winter
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    84 M535i gray market Burgandy Rot Met/Black Leather Lowered by Intrax on bilies, poly everywhere, B&B cat back system, K&N, and a hitch! Da Beast - Still running w/400k+!
    91 316i euro Tizianrot/Gray cloth - E-36 w/M-40 RIP, but great on gas! Best was 38 MPG
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  8. #8
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    #1 in the diagram is the regulator. 98% of the time, it's the culprit.

    Chris Powell
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  9. #9
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    I'm gonna say its the motor. He said most times, it works fine. We all know a broken regulator will not work ever. Sounds like the motor is activating anti-trap.
    ASE and BMW Master Certified Technician

  10. #10
    dworthy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by White94RX View Post
    I'm gonna say its the motor. He said most times, it works fine. We all know a broken regulator will not work ever. Sounds like the motor is activating anti-trap.
    I was thinking along the same line if the regulator is good. A idea would be to pull the motor and see how smooth the glass moves up by hand. If it is rough, then regulator, nice and smooth, replace the motor.
    Darin
    Current:
    16 220i Active Tourer Platinsilver MET (C08)/Dakota Black (PDSW), P7ACA, P7LDA, P7LHA, P9BDA, 6sp Manual - Wife's new toy!
    05 325it Electric Red(438)/Gray(N6TT) ZCW, ZSP 5sp Manual Back set cover, trunk mat, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield, and mud flaps! Mr. Wagon My new Winter car.
    05 M3 Imolarot II(405)/Gray(N5TT) ZCW, ZPP 6sp Manual C.F. Lip, CSL diffuser, SSK, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield and a trunk liner! Mr. Go_Fast Stored for the Winter
    Past:
    95 318is Montreal Blue Met (297)/Beige(K1SN) RIP, killed by an Idiot.
    84 M535i gray market Burgandy Rot Met/Black Leather Lowered by Intrax on bilies, poly everywhere, B&B cat back system, K&N, and a hitch! Da Beast - Still running w/400k+!
    91 316i euro Tizianrot/Gray cloth - E-36 w/M-40 RIP, but great on gas! Best was 38 MPG
    82 528i euro Saphire Blue Met/Blue Leather RIP
    79 525 euro Green/Green RIP
    79 318 Silver/Black - The first one that got it all started
    M-Flight Member

  11. #11
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    You could attempt what is normally a preventive measure related to maintenance, and it might help, if it's related to some blockage due to a resistance coming from the rubber window frame (triggering the regulator):

    1) take the window all the way down
    2) thoroughly clean the inside of the window frame with a DRY used toothbrush to get rid of all the dust accumulated over time (it tends to become compact and sticky with water/time)
    3) spray some silicon lubricant such as this one, inside the window frame:
    https://www.wd40specialist.com/produ...one-lubricant/
    4) take the window back-up
    5) repeat 1) and 3). it'll help the silicon get to the invisible parts of the frame and lubricate it slightly.

    If you feel like going a step further, remove the door panel and put some (not too much, for e.g. use a cotton bud) transmission fluid on the cable while operating the window up and down, to help it get to the motor.

    Edit: when you're done, wipe off any silicon accidentally sprayed on the car's paint, as it might have a corrosive effect.
    Last edited by Breeze1; 04-25-2018 at 11:09 AM.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by White94RX View Post
    I'm gonna say its the motor. He said most times, it works fine. We all know a broken regulator will not work ever. Sounds like the motor is activating anti-trap.
    I was thinking that the little metal crimped chunk (splice?) in the middle of the cable was occasionally hitting an obstruction, as it has on my own M5 and several other cars I've worked on, thereby causing the anti-trap function of the motor to function. You know those little tabs, which keep the cable tucked tight to the main body / upright of the regulator? I know not all regulators have these...E39's do, E46's don't, I can't recall if I've ever seen them on an E90 or not.

    Still, I have seen the motor fail more often on E90s than any other BMW....

    Chris Powell
    Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
    Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
    BMWCCA 274412
    German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471

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