Hello gentlemen and ladies too,
It's been awhile since I have posted on this site but I have run into a situation that just does not want to give.
I have a 2000 528i E39 and I am replacing the lower controls arms due to premature wear when a new tire was placed on the front driver side and the front passenger side was over two years old. Yes we are talking shimmy especially when braking.
I have the replacement arms and the proper ball joint separator tools but the ball joint just will not let go. I have cranked on the tool until I have very little thread showing so I know there is a lot of pressure being put on the ball joint.
I have done this job on three different 3 series BMW's and have had some difficulty but never had one that just would not bulge at all.
I even used the pickle fork and hammered the side of the arm but as of yet it's just plain stuck.
Any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
Welcome to the Forum!
Well sort of, as it been a long time since you posted.
Yes I have seen this happen a couple of times and the only way I was able to remove it was thru heat and brute force. If you don't have a torch and a 10 lbs sledge hammer, this would be a job to pass onto a shop.
Darin
Current:
16 220i Active Tourer Platinsilver MET (C08)/Dakota Black (PDSW), P7ACA, P7LDA, P7LHA, P9BDA, 6sp Manual - Wife's new toy!
05 325it Electric Red(438)/Gray(N6TT) ZCW, ZSP 5sp Manual Back set cover, trunk mat, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield, and mud flaps! Mr. Wagon My new Winter car.
05 M3 Imolarot II(405)/Gray(N5TT) ZCW, ZPP 6sp Manual C.F. Lip, CSL diffuser, SSK, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield and a trunk liner! Mr. Go_Fast Stored for the Winter
Past:
95 318is Montreal Blue Met (297)/Beige(K1SN) RIP, killed by an Idiot.
84 M535i gray market Burgandy Rot Met/Black Leather Lowered by Intrax on bilies, poly everywhere, B&B cat back system, K&N, and a hitch! Da Beast - Still running w/400k+!
91 316i euro Tizianrot/Gray cloth - E-36 w/M-40 RIP, but great on gas! Best was 38 MPG
82 528i euro Saphire Blue Met/Blue Leather RIP
79 525 euro Green/Green RIP
79 318 Silver/Black - The first one that got it all started
M-Flight Member
Try this. Get a ball joint remover. I have one from harbour freight. Not the best but lifetime warranty had one break on removing bmw ball joint in question. I put this tool on sometimes hammering it into place, get it really tight, then take 3lb hammer and pound top post on ball joint--yes this means hammering the beam ofvthe tool because it will be on the post. Do not have your face or anything near because when that joint releases it's like a shot gun kick.
Last edited by Sleepyhead97; 04-20-2018 at 06:04 AM.
Thanks for the input folks.
I am putting this project off for at least a couple of weeks until I can build up the nerve to beat and burn.
Thanks
No need for heat in my experience. If you have the ball joint tool make sure it is pushing squarely on the stud, they tend to want to walk off. Once you have cranked it down hard give the knuckle a good hard bash(don't be a pussy!) with a 3#(min) hammer. It'll let go.
Sometimes the steel insert in the aluminum knuckle comes with it, that presents another problem. Heat then becomes your friend.
Good luck
If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue
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