Results 1 to 10 of 10

Thread: 89 535i m30 Exhaust Manifold Gasket Replacement

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Bay Area
    Posts
    65
    My Cars
    1993 Calypso e31 850ci

    89 535i m30 Exhaust Manifold Gasket Replacement

    So, after reading through several threads and coming to the conclusion that replacing the gasket is a PITA with regards to the cylinder head studs and bolts holding the compression spring on the exhaust, I'm going to get a shop to do this. However, I'd like to get advice on:

    - Should I replace the cylinder head studs altogether?
    - If so, I know the studs are m8x50 and the part on RealOEM is below, however is there a kit I can buy that is better than OEM and would prevent future seizing?
    Stud bolt M8X50-ZNS X 07129901917 $0.61
    - General cost of the exhaust manifold gasket job? I'm quoted at $465, but that doesnt include additional costs if the studs break :/
    - While the shop is down there, what else should I consider replacing?

    Thanks.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    NW suburban Chicago
    Posts
    16,302
    My Cars
    hiss by my window
    $465! Yikes! And that's if it goes smoothly? Since when do the under car monkeys earn doctor's wages? Lemme guess. Midas?
    The studs that connect to the pipes often are corroded badly but even here in rusty Chicago they can often be removed without breaking using careful application of some heat. The nuts are copper and dissolve a bit over time making it tough to get a wrench on them. Plan on new copper nuts, a few bucks worth.
    The studs into the head often will back out along with the nut, just re-assemble the same way.
    In California I can't imagine any of this being an issue or taking more than an hour or so, at least for anybody having done much exhaust work.
    The gaskets to the head could perhaps be done without even removing the down pipes, just loosening some of the hangers so the manifold can be moved a bit.
    Find a different shop.
    Last edited by ross1; 04-19-2018 at 12:53 PM.

    If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Bay Area
    Posts
    65
    My Cars
    1993 Calypso e31 850ci
    Right, that price seems like he's quoting me for 5 hours of work. To the question of cylinder head studs, would something like work?

    https://www.ebay.ie/itm/BMW-E24-E28-...-/272917593855

    It appears to be ARP-like studs..

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    NW suburban Chicago
    Posts
    16,302
    My Cars
    hiss by my window
    Those are the fasteners to the head. Just buy the gaskets, ~$25 worth, the hardware will be fine. If the studs back out, so what, they will screw back in.
    So, who quoted this job?
    Last edited by ross1; 04-19-2018 at 12:58 PM.

    If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Bay Area
    Posts
    65
    My Cars
    1993 Calypso e31 850ci

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    NW suburban Chicago
    Posts
    16,302
    My Cars
    hiss by my window
    link doesn't work.
    Find someone else. There are guys on here in your area, one of them may have a suggestion for you.

    If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Bay Area
    Posts
    65
    My Cars
    1993 Calypso e31 850ci
    I think I'll head to a shop in Concord as suggested by some folks on here. Thanks Ross1.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Great White North
    Posts
    11,299
    My Cars
    various
    Did mine. All studs came out of the head with nuts attached with hand tools. One of the down pipe nuts came off easily, the other broke the stud. (I was impatient and didn't use heat, wax etc.) Took the manifold to a shop to have the broken stud removed. ($20), bought new copper nuts, manifold studs etc before reassembly.

    Wasn't really a bad job.

    Dissassembled another M30 and had an exhaust stud break due to a leaky HG which allowed coolant to leak onto the stud (corroded in place) Used a mig welder to attach a nut to it and backed it out.

    Just be glad you don't own a Triton 5.4 and have to do this job...

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    Perth, Western Australia
    Posts
    1,101
    My Cars
    09/90 E34 525i (M50)
    I made my own penetrating oil from ATF and acetone (because I have nowhere to buy the good stuff from the USA - like pb, kroil or aerokroil etc in australia) and I know that wd40, rp7 etc are worthless as last year I got stuck on my ford falcon exhaust job using just wd40 and rp7.

    Anyway, long story short: I got an exhaust shop to do my e34 as it's a pain with the steering box in the way and without a lift/hoist and doing it outdoors in the rain. Because I had been applying my atf&acetone mix every few days for a week or two before I took it to the shop they had no problems replacing my gaskets and I think they only charged $175 (which is cheap for australia). They even kept mentioning how easy it seemed and were happy about it.
    So I suggest you get a good penetrating oil treatment on it and the job might be easier/quicker/cheaper.

    E: You don't need to pay BMW specialist prices for this type of job, find a good exhaust shop - not a chain-shop that does sloppy and cheap work, but a good specialist one that does lots of difficult and tight jobs on custom/race/street cars with some pride. I was lucky as I knew a shop that did that type of work (did my mazda rx4 15 years ago), and they had a facebook page of current custom jobs and happy customers.

    Buy the collector pipe gaskets as well, get them to undo that connection before attacking the head exhaust gaskets. Give them more room to play with the headers while removing and replacing those gaskets without putting any stress on the rest of the exhaust. Also maybe consider the oxy sensor replacement while it's on a lift and someone there has a oxy-acet torch if needed (I regret not doing mine at the same time as it cost me more and was a pain to do later).
    Last edited by fo3; 04-21-2018 at 01:29 AM.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Bay Area
    Posts
    65
    My Cars
    1993 Calypso e31 850ci
    Quote Originally Posted by fo3 View Post
    I made my own penetrating oil from ATF and acetone (because I have nowhere to buy the good stuff from the USA - like pb, kroil or aerokroil etc in australia) and I know that wd40, rp7 etc are worthless as last year I got stuck on my ford falcon exhaust job using just wd40 and rp7.

    Anyway, long story short: I got an exhaust shop to do my e34 as it's a pain with the steering box in the way and without a lift/hoist and doing it outdoors in the rain. Because I had been applying my atf&acetone mix every few days for a week or two before I took it to the shop they had no problems replacing my gaskets and I think they only charged $175 (which is cheap for australia). They even kept mentioning how easy it seemed and were happy about it.
    So I suggest you get a good penetrating oil treatment on it and the job might be easier/quicker/cheaper.

    E: You don't need to pay BMW specialist prices for this type of job, find a good exhaust shop - not a chain-shop that does sloppy and cheap work, but a good specialist one that does lots of difficult and tight jobs on custom/race/street cars with some pride. I was lucky as I knew a shop that did that type of work (did my mazda rx4 15 years ago), and they had a facebook page of current custom jobs and happy customers.

    Buy the collector pipe gaskets as well, get them to undo that connection before attacking the head exhaust gaskets. Give them more room to play with the headers while removing and replacing those gaskets without putting any stress on the rest of the exhaust. Also maybe consider the oxy sensor replacement while it's on a lift and someone there has a oxy-acet torch if needed (I regret not doing mine at the same time as it cost me more and was a pain to do later).
    Oh, yes. This is good stuff. I'll hit it with some penetrating oil before taking it to their shop. I'm also replacing a corroded muffler/exhaust with a universal one, so I'll source an o2 sensor to replace as well per your suggestion in order to do a mini exhaust refresh.

    Also your advice about finding specialist to work on these older BMW's is solid. Almost always, BMW or european in the shop's name = 20-30% markup.

Similar Threads

  1. M6 / M635 Exhaust Manifold Gasket Replacement
    By pastaroni34 in forum 1976 - 1989 (E24)
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 11-10-2013, 06:38 PM
  2. E36 1994 325i Exhaust Manifold Gaskets Replacement
    By imayes in forum General BMW Mechanical Help sponsored by RM European Auto Parts
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 08-20-2010, 10:22 AM
  3. E34 M30 Exhaust Manifold Gaskets/Tstat housing gasket
    By E34tn in forum E34 Classifieds (closing soon)
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 03-03-2010, 03:09 PM
  4. I need your input for exhaust manifold gasket replacement
    By balovly in forum 1991 - 1999 (E36)
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 05-03-2009, 08:53 PM
  5. M30 exhaust manifold stud replacement question
    By zubbie in forum 1988 - 1996 (E34)
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 10-23-2007, 10:48 PM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •