Fuel system cleaner

[300kplus]

I have a very high mile daily driver that I just put a new fuel filter in about 6 months ago. I see on various posts where BG 44K Fuel System Cleaner is hey somewhat popular fuel system cleaner. Will this damage or hinder in any way, the new fuel filter I just had installed?
Thanks in advance

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[JimLev]

BG44K is meant to be injected directly into the fuel rail, not dumped into the tank.
Use Chevron Techron.

[Coupenut]

BG44K is meant to be injected directly into the fuel rail, not dumped into the tank.
Use Chevron Techron.

BG does make fuel system cleaners that are intended to be injected into the fuel system using BG's proprietary machines, but 44K isn't one of them. 44K is intended to be introduced via the fuel tank. But to the OP's original comment it's a fabulous product.

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[jp5Touring]

use a top tier gas,

https://www.toptiergas.com/licensedbrands/

[geargrinder]

^^^ Yepfersure what jp said.

Techron or BG are fine products as far as they go but the science says that if you use good gas, and use the high-grades of it, that stuff is loaded with the magic cleaner pixie dust anyway and running tankfuls of good gas repeatedly / all the time is far better than trying to dump some extra additive here and there into cheap gas. Basically the expensive gas has the cleaner stuff pre-loaded.

I had some luck loosening up drippy injectors by "overdosing" my old MB with Techron for a few tankfuls (on top of using high-grade additive-loaded gas) but that was a kinda special story because my granny probably ran that car its entire life on the cheapest gas possible and it would sit all summer with the gas varnishing up. Techron or BG wouldn't do anything useful for our 'good' cars which always get $$$ gas all the time anyway.

And your new fuel filter ain't gonna clog up - put the FF low on your list of life worries. Hey if you got 200k on the car, great, go for it, was probably good logic to replacing it. But the FF on these cars is a giant mega canister that's nearly impossible to clog (as I always say you could stuff a dead rat in one and it would still flow), the guys who replace them every few years like its the 1970's and we have rusty gas tanks and engine-block-mounted fuel pumps are throwing their money away. The fuel pump has a significant screen on it so its nearly impossible for particles to get as far as the filter unless something really bad/wrong has happened.

Frequent FF replacement was back when the gas tank was metal and rusted and had little to no filter/screen before the lines got to the engine bay, which was where the pump lived. Oh and maybe the gas station gear was crappier too. Today, the gas station pump has a super micron filter on it at all times so the gas goes in pure as an angels pee, then your plastic tank doesn't rust, and if anything does fall in the tank, the pickup is up off the bottom anyway with a little depression to create a 'decant'/particle collection effect just in case... and then the pump has a fairly tight screen/filter mounted in it before it pumps it down the line... Almost impossible for anything clogging to get to your filter.

[300kplus]

^^^ Yepfersure what jp said.

Techron or BG are fine products as far as they go but the science says that if you use good gas, and use the high-grades of it, that stuff is loaded with the magic cleaner pixie dust anyway and running tankfuls of good gas repeatedly / all the time is far better than trying to dump some extra additive here and there into cheap gas. Basically the expensive gas has the cleaner stuff pre-loaded.

I had some luck loosening up drippy injectors by "overdosing" my old MB with Techron for a few tankfuls (on top of using high-grade additive-loaded gas) but that was a kinda special story because my granny probably ran that car its entire life on the cheapest gas possible and it would sit all summer with the gas varnishing up. Techron or BG wouldn't do anything useful for our 'good' cars which always get $$$ gas all the time anyway.

And your new fuel filter ain't gonna clog up - put the FF low on your list of life worries. Hey if you got 200k on the car, great, go for it, was probably good logic to replacing it. But the FF on these cars is a giant mega canister that's nearly impossible to clog (as I always say you could stuff a dead rat in one and it would still flow), the guys who replace them every few years like its the 1970's and we have rusty gas tanks and engine-block-mounted fuel pumps are throwing their money away. The fuel pump has a significant screen on it so its nearly impossible for particles to get as far as the filter unless something really bad/wrong has happened.

Frequent FF replacement was back when the gas tank was metal and rusted and had little to no filter/screen before the lines got to the engine bay, which was where the pump lived. Oh and maybe the gas station gear was crappier too. Today, the gas station pump has a super micron filter on it at all times so the gas goes in pure as an angels pee, then your plastic tank doesn't rust, and if anything does fall in the tank, the pickup is up off the bottom anyway with a little depression to create a 'decant'/particle collection effect just in case... and then the pump has a fairly tight screen/filter mounted in it before it pumps it down the line... Almost impossible for anything clogging to get to your filter.

Thanks for this guys. Always use top-tier gas. My only thoughts for reaching out about this particular product or similar products, was that sometimes I let her run really low on gas, I bought the car with very high miles on it already, and have a company vehicle. Hence [my driver] sits a lot...
Thanks again

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[JimLev]

So did they change the formulation so you can now put it in your tank?
When I bought a case of it a few years ago you needed to imject it under pressure into the fuel rail to get it to clean the injectors.
https://www.bgprod.com/catalog/gasol...ion-apparatus/

[jwetz]

So did they change the formulation so you can now put it in your tank?
When I bought a case of it a few years ago you needed to imject it under pressure into the fuel rail to get it to clean the injectors.
https://www.bgprod.com/catalog/gasol...ion-apparatus/

That's funny! I've been in auto parts since '96. I'm on my 3rd & 4th bimmers now...
I've always just bought the can of 44k & poured it into the gas tank.
I've done this twice a year on all our cars with no problems. In fact, every bmw I've had, even a 248,000 mile E36...has always "fast passed" our emissions here in the Denver area. They put the car on the rollers, hook up the testing equipment & the computer literally shuts down the test in about a minute because it's burning so clean.

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[djb2]

Thanks for this guys. Always use top-tier gas. My only thoughts for reaching out about this particular product or similar products, was that sometimes I let her run really low on gas, I bought the car with very high miles on it already, and have a company vehicle. Hence [my driver] sits a lot...

Running low on gas won't have any ill effect, although running it completely dry may cause wear.
The pump is constantly picking up fuel from the very bottom of the tank and moving it through the system. Any debris in the system will be sucked to the inlet screen during operation, and released (or stick there) when the pump is off. That happens independent of level. It's not as if the pump only sucks from the bottom when the level is low.

Cooling is done by the flowing fuel, not the immersion in fuel, so "running on (almost) empty" has little effect. If the pump is run dry the load and heat generated is lower, so it's not going to instantly overheat. The change in operating condition (higher RPM, shock load, bubbles) will have a worse effect.

[300kplus]

Running low on gas won't have any ill effect, although running it completely dry may cause wear.
The pump is constantly picking up fuel from the very bottom of the tank and moving it through the system. Any debris in the system will be sucked to the inlet screen during operation, and released (or stick there) when the pump is off. That happens independent of level. It's not as if the pump only sucks from the bottom when the level is low.

Cooling is done by the flowing fuel, not the immersion in fuel, so "running on (almost) empty" has little effect. If the pump is run dry the load and heat generated is lower, so it's not going to instantly overheat. The change in operating condition (higher RPM, shock load, bubbles) will have a worse effect.

Good to know. Thanks!

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[Coupenut]

That's funny! I've been in auto parts since '96. I'm on my 3rd & 4th bimmers now...
I've always just bought the can of 44k & poured it into the gas tank.
I've done this twice a year on all our cars with no problems. In fact, every bmw I've had, even a 248,000 mile E36...has always "fast passed" our emissions here in the Denver area. They put the car on the rollers, hook up the testing equipment & the computer literally shuts down the test in about a minute because it's burning so clean.

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If you actually click on the picture of the 44K on the supplied link you'll be taken to another page with a description of the 44K product that includes the instructions that it's poured into the gas tank. That particular web page is somewhat misleading.
The other two products shown on the initial page do require the use of BG's proprietary machine.

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[JimLev]

Didn't know there were so many BG44K products.
PN201, 206, 208, 210, and 260.

208 is the one you pour into the tank.

[Coupenut]

Didn't know there were so many BG44K products.
PN201, 206, 208, 210, and 260.

208 is the one you pour into the tank.

BG has a large product line. 44K (208) is just one, 206, 210, 260, etc. are seperate products.
Their lubricants are very good also.

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