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Thread: first start turbo problems

  1. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by ba114 View Post
    Yes it is standard. If you dont do it, you havent actually written the tune to the ecu.
    You sure about this? He is running a Techinca tune, which if I remember correctly does not require any bridging and you connect to you laptop from the round connector under the hood. A few years ago I switched from Technica to RK Tune and with the RK Tune yes I did have to bridge and connect from inside the car. Also Techinca requires or at least did when I ran the tune to modify a few wires from the harness above the manifold I don't remember the details though.

    She's built like a steakhouse but handles like a bistro

  2. #27
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    e30 318i, 135i
    Quote Originally Posted by glockroulette View Post
    what do you use to post pictures?

    timing is dead on now, maf is wired per technicas instructions, i had it wrong when i first wired it up but its good now.

    so fuel pressure with the old fpr is still 50-52, shoots to 58 when vacuum line is removed. maybe low vacuum is keeping it at the 50-52 range? also technica says their 255 pump is okay with the stock fpr. im getting way too much fuel pressure though and introducing air after the maf will let the car have a good idle until it corrects its self back down to 400 and dies. literally wont stay running with out the gas pedal, and even then its terrible.

    should i go aeromotive or?
    255 won't overpower stock regulator usually. I have a 340 with no issues.

    At either rate, you need to bring the pressure down. Right now you have 20% more pressure than the tune expects.

    It may not be perfect maths, but you're engine is now getting 20% more fuel injected per opening cycle.

    Calculations of fuel tuned for 14.7:1 with 20% more fuel equals out to roughly 11.7:1. Factor in cold start enrichment and cranking enrichment and youre down in the low 10s.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by JimsR View Post
    You sure about this? He is running a Techinca tune, which if I remember correctly does not require any bridging and you connect to you laptop from the round connector under the hood. A few years ago I switched from Technica to RK Tune and with the RK Tune yes I did have to bridge and connect from inside the car. Also Techinca requires or at least did when I ran the tune to modify a few wires from the harness above the manifold I don't remember the details though.
    Unless technica have some special magic powers that can force the ecu into programming mode via the k-line (Pretty sure they dont) then yes, I'm sure

  3. #28
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    Dec 2013
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    1993 325is
    as requested some pictures of my setup. havent done much else, ordered the aeromotive fpr. just need to get fittings and i can see how the car responds to the correct fuel pressure.

    image4.jpgimage5.jpgimage7.jpgimage8 (1).jpgimage9.jpg

  4. #29
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    1993 325is

  5. #30
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    bump and update, installed the aeromotive fpr. adjusted to 40-43psi. cleared adaptations, actually held a idle by itself for a little bit. but went back to running rich as shit. couple of thoughts..

    as it sits now afr ratio is PEGGED like couldnt go any lower rich WHEN its idling. wont go above 10.0. but if i unplug the booster line it has a beautiful 1000 rpm idle/19inhg/ but with a 10-11.0 afr. so i know its getting a fuck ton of fuel. i just dont know why. smoke tested it again. ZERO leaks.

    idle air control valve, this thing is CLEAN, i can shake it and the i can feel and hear the plunger move freely. i can put a stethoscope on it and hear it buzzing KOEO. can these things fail with out throwing faults?

    dme.. could be bad but i doubt it.

    tune.. this is what im leaning towards. not blaming them maybe the tune hasnt stuck but i flashed it with and without bridging the wires. ill be calling technica tomorrow and seeing what they say. im 95% sure my hardware is sorted.
    Last edited by glockroulette; 04-24-2018 at 06:51 PM.

  6. #31
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    99 Turbo M3
    Quote Originally Posted by glockroulette View Post
    bump and update, installed the aeromotive fpr. adjusted to 40-43psi. cleared adaptations, actually held a idle by itself for a little bit. but went back to running rich as shit. couple of thoughts..

    as it sits now afr ratio is PEGGED like couldnt go any lower rich WHEN its idling. wont go above 10.0. but if i unplug the booster line it has a beautiful 1000 rpm idle/19inhg/ but with a 10-11.0 afr. so i know its getting a fuck ton of fuel. i just dont know why. smoke tested it again. ZERO leaks.

    idle air control valve, this thing is CLEAN, i can shake it and the i can feel and hear the plunger move freely. i can put a stethoscope on it and hear it buzzing KOEO. can these things fail with out throwing faults?

    dme.. could be bad but i doubt it.

    tune.. this is what im leaning towards. not blaming them maybe the tune hasnt stuck but i flashed it with and without bridging the wires. ill be calling technica tomorrow and seeing what they say. im 95% sure my hardware is sorted.

    make sure your idle control valve hoses are not sucking shut, I have max PSI hoses and mine were until I built a coil for them inside

  7. #32
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    TT Stg II M3
    I just recently installed an OBD2 Technica tune and I didn't have to bridge any pins in the 20 pin connector. Everything uploaded just fine. A lot of Walbro 255s override the stock fpr at idle by about 10-15%, so take that into account. My fuel pressure at idle is 50psi with a Walbro 255 and a new oem fpr. I had Bret send me a revision for the high base fuel pressure though and everything is fine.

    You mentioned that you wired your MAF incorrectly, which wires did you mix up? It's possible you may have damage your MAF and/or the wiring by doing that.

  8. #33
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    good point i have max psi hoses too ill check that too. and when i say wired incorrectly i believe i didnt have grounds hooked up. its possible i damaged it but id probably see a code for it. when unplugged the car starts and dies.

    ive been lurking a while and havent heard of the bridging either not before this thread. but my fuel pressure is at 43psi and im below 10 afr at this point so i might have to ask and see if i can get a revision. but first im gonna check those max psi hoses. hopefully its some dumb shit like that.

  9. #34
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    Nov 2013
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    trbo e36 328;98 m3
    Setup looks decent. But get rid of that synapse BOV. It will leak at idle and mine started leaking at the flange overtime. If I recall correctly it uses allen bolts to attach to flange instead of a v-band. Go to a Tial 50mm with brown spring.

    96 328is turbo
    98 Hellrot M3/4/5

  10. #35
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    idle air hoses are not sucking shut. now its phone tag time

  11. #36
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    Oct 2016
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    Philadelphia, PA
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    E36 2JZ
    You have the new FPR in right? Why not lower the base 6 more psi or so (whatever vacuum line difference is) to 37 and test the idle then. If its good you can retune from there since it'll rise as boost rises naturally.

  12. #37
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    so messed with some stuff today. technica sent a revision with less fuel at idle. still no change (of course). this thing is tears in your eyes rich. im pretty stumped right now.

    compression, timing, vanos. pretty sure i can write these off.. because it idles great with when you throw more air at it. with the revision with the booster line removed its now jumping between 11-14. technica advised that instead of too much fuel it might be getting too little air and suggested checking charge pipes for any sneaky rags. i removed the intercooler pipes and checked with a borescope luckily didnt find anything. they also wanted to see the maf wiring so ill show them that tomorrow.

    embarrassingly enough i had a thought that maybe i got the fuel lines at the rail switched, seeing as that would wreck havoc with the pressure at the regulator especiacly since im trying to adjust with the aeromotive unit. swapped the lines no change, actually ran. im running out of ideas though. heres the maf wiring i have, the bottom of the pic is technica maf, top is oem harnessimage1.JPG

  13. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by IR M5 View Post
    I just recently installed an OBD2 Technica tune and I didn't have to bridge any pins in the 20 pin connector. Everything uploaded just fine.
    Been thinking about this and maybe you dont need the wires bridged, although it doesn't hurt. Maybe technica have figured out the same method of flashing as winkfp, which might not need programming voltage - can't remember as I always leave the wires bridged, even on my bench flasher.

  14. #39
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    i asked technica and they said as long as you use the supplied obd2 to 20 pin cable you do not have to bridge.

    so i tore the manifold off today to double check wiring harnesses and other shenigans. i noticed that i had puddles of fuel in my intake ports in the head. maybe injectors leaking? so i jumped the pump with 14 volts and let it run for little bit watching the tips and i didnt have any visible leakage from them. while i was at it i checked spray pattern while cranking. didnt see anything crazy from that though. before i cleaned and dried the injector tips they were wet with fuel.

    image1.jpg

  15. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by glockroulette View Post
    i asked technica and they said as long as you use the supplied obd2 to 20 pin cable you do not have to bridge.
    Ahhh! which means they probably modify it to bridge the wires internally

  16. #41
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    got this bitch to run tonight, it was the blow off valve, when the engine was on the valve was open SHOOTING air out. took it off and capped the flange and got the engine to actually warm up. its still running rich, highest it got was 10.5. it was beginning to smooth out but died.

    the synapse bov has two vacuum ports on the rear and those are both tee'd going to a vacuum manifold with is hooked up to a port right under the booster line. doing some research i found a antistall kit for the bov.

    i need to boost leak test again after tearing everything apart. can i safely boost leak test at the turbo inlet where the airfilter goes without blowing turbo seals?

    also what o2 sensor part numbers would be right for a 06/96 m3

    11781437943

    or

    11781427884


    im pretty sure its the 884 according to real oem.
    Last edited by glockroulette; 04-27-2018 at 09:28 PM.

  17. #42
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    E36 S52 M3/4/5 Cos. Blk.
    Wow, I'm glad you figured it out, guess it was something relatively simple after all. what muffler is that you are using?
    Last edited by Brown9348; 04-28-2018 at 02:21 AM.
    '97 BMW M3/4/5, Cosmos Black.

    '05 Volvo S40 T5 AWD.

  18. #43
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    see i dont know if i did figure it out. because apparently synapse designed the bov to be open at idle. research suggest its sucking or blowing air at idle and closed as soon as boost is starting to build. doesnt make sense because its shooting air out like a hairdryer and the maf is upstream of that, thats a lot of air that isnt going in the engine

    if any one running this bov can provide some clarity as to if this is normal operation or not id LOVE you.

    muffler is a 30 dollar amazon gem. 3 inch inlet, dual 3 inch outs.

  19. #44
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    little update.

    so as of right now i can get it idling great until warm up, and then it will start missing. the hotter it gets the more it misses. afrs from cold start are in the 8's and it will get up to 10. and once it warms up its back down to 8.x. before it warms up it runs great other than the afr.

    things ive done/ checked.

    -aeromotive fpr @ 38-40psi. installed like this post references http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...-Install-99-M3
    -boost leak and smoke leak tested again. passed.
    -checked timing(passed) and checked torque on arps after first heatcycle.
    -cleaned and checked spark plug gap and swapped coils. (bkr7e @.22)
    -VERIFIED all electrical connections.
    -i did swap o2 sensor, i had part number ending in 943 and swapped it with 884 as referenced in post 41. still dont know which is the RIGHT one for b1s1
    -adjusted bov to stay closed at idle.

    after i ran it today, i pulled plugs, looked into the chambers and saw

    cylinder 1-dry
    2-"smoking" im assuming because this one has decent combustion
    3-piston fuel soaked
    4-"smoking"
    5-piston fuel soaked
    6-piston fuel soaked

    im gonna do a compression test in the morning.

    image1.JPGimage2.JPG

  20. #45
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    Are you still getting low vacuum?

  21. #46
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    boost gauge is set in kpa ill run it again tonight and convert it. compression test is 160 all across all 6 cold. im gonna try and switch the o2 and see what happens, then i guess ill start digging into the harness.




    *update, still stuck in the 8's until warm up and then it just hits 10 for a minute and goes back to 8 afr and starts missing and fouling out the plugs. vacuum is around 7-8 inhg, fuel pressure is 34psi and around 40 with the reference unplugged. harness looks okay, no other codes other than whats posted. again no vacuum or boost leaks. below is some images of live data.

    image42.JPGima4ge3.JPG
    Last edited by glockroulette; 05-03-2018 at 09:26 PM. Reason: latest info

  22. #47
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    thread bump because im not desperate at all.

  23. #48
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    Dont remeber reading if you are running a obd2 iat sensor on your obd1 intake manifold.

  24. #49
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    That's not a very accurate way to check O2 sensor operating voltages. They fluctuate too quickly and this is why an oscilloscope is used when checking O2 voltages. Not sure if you mentioned it already, but what O2 plug are you using? I'm using bank 2 with my Technica tune...

    Btw your vacuum at idle is super low. Something isn't right.

  25. #50
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    Running the bimmerworld threaded obd2 sensor. and im pretty sure its bank one(closest to the firewall), i already tried switching it to the other plug, i get a code when i switch it.

    vacuums probably super low because the engine is on the verge of hydrolocking with fuel. it increases when i create a vacuum leak, ie. more air to counter the fuel.

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