I somehow managed to end up putting BOTH my keys in the washing machine at separate times. The first key was my spare that has the red light on it and a single large button, and it survived, I let it sit for a few days and it worked without issue. The second key is the one I actually use which has the rubber replaced and it appears water got inside. I was a bit overly confident so I took the main key apart (same style 3 button but without the red led and has two tiny button cells) and let it sit for a bit, then re assembled and its not working. So TL;DR I'm looking for some ideas on repair / replacement of just the remote.
EDIT: it was the initialization process I didn't do! Posting my realization here:
OHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH the Initialize, I forgot all about this. I was able to fix the key using the procedure here:
pWVQ77q.jpg
Last edited by Xproplayer; 04-19-2018 at 01:23 AM. Reason: fixed!
Put it in rice for a few days??? If it works for cell phones......
2001 740iL "Silver Beauty"
1986 Porsche 951 "Silver Bullet"
1987 Porsche 944 NA Auto (rebuilding for my son's first car)
https://home.doonze.net/filepage.php <- BMW/Porsche doc's and files, work in progress
WHAT do you mean by "it's not working" (can you break that down into further details)? The remote keys controls 3 different features...which of the 3 features do NOT work now that you've washed it and taken the key apart? It matters because the answers/suggestions are NOT the same depending on what may or may not be working.
- EWS -immobilizer system (shuts down fuel/spark/ignition...car won't start)
- FZV - central locking system (locks/unlocks the vehicle)
- DWA - anti-theft alarm siren system (arms/disarms the alarm system)
Last edited by Qsilver7; 04-18-2018 at 02:38 PM.
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2015 650ix GC (Moonstone/Cohiba Brown) <<~>> 2014 X5 50i (Space Gray/Mocha)
Unless you lost the chip, you probably just need to initialize it again. Make sure it's dry. I would take it apart again and put it in rice. No reason it should not work again.
Sure the batts are still good?
|| 1995 740i || M60B40 || DUDMD || ̶o̶r̶i̶e̶n̶t̶ ̶b̶l̶u̶e̶ Mercedes Brilliant Blue Metallic || Style 168 Wheels 1" Spacers ||
OHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH the Initialize, I forgot all about this. I was able to fix the key using the procedure here:
pWVQ77q.jpg
I am so silly. On a related note does anyone know why this is necessary? Is it like a rolling code system?
Thank you everyone!
BTW...thanks for the additional info...it made it clear as to what wasn't working on your remote key.
The earlier 3 button remotes that do NOT have the red status LED don't have an EEPROM to store key data...so info is lost when the battery is replaced. The old style remotes with the red status LED...DO have an EEPROM that stores key data...so the info isn't lost when the battery is replaced (see info below).
The FZV & DWA features of the remote key communicate with the GM. It establishes key identification for each remote programmed to it...and a rolling code (see 1st paragraph in info below). Make sure you program ALL your remote keys during the same session...if a remote key is NOT programmed during the same session...then that remote key will no longer lock/unlock and arm/disarm the car when the buttons are pressed. It WILL still work manually if you insert it into the door lock cylinder or trunk cylinder (prior to 2000 model year).
Become a BMW CCA member! Click HERE to join and feel free to use my BMW CCA member #191509 as a referral.
2015 650ix GC (Moonstone/Cohiba Brown) <<~>> 2014 X5 50i (Space Gray/Mocha)
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