What did you do with your E32 today?

[NE32]

I always wondered why we didn't have one of these threads. Almost every other model on here does so why not us! So let's find out what you did today!

It's officially out of winter mode. I threw on 20mm spacers in the front. The rear isn't sitting how I want it yet so I'm gonna wait on spacers. It does sit flush with the fender! 18x8 Mpar


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[bmwmandan2002]

Installed front M-Tech Sway bar, the rear is still in the garage awaiting new drop links to arrive

[eawright301]

On my 1990 735i auto: Ran a stomp test and found the 1215 code (MAF issue)- now looking into how to read the "deeper" fault codes in the car because at only 112k miles, this MAF should still be okay. I might start a new thread about this, but for now the car is happy to start and run, so I'm off for a shakedown drive. Then its time to pull the 325es out of its winter slumber!

[vwleadfoot]

trying to finish stripping one......drivetrain out....now time for the rear diff...

[CroughtonE32]

On my 1990 735i auto: Ran a stomp test and found the 1215 code (MAF issue)- now looking into how to read the "deeper" fault codes in the car because at only 112k miles, this MAF should still be okay. I might start a new thread about this, but for now the car is happy to start and run, so I'm off for a shakedown drive. Then its time to pull the 325es out of its winter slumber!

You might want to try giving it a good cleaning. When I had that fault code years ago, I did and got another five years out of it before replacing it at about 155000. Doesn't have to be this, but it works well.

[SergeBMW]

Doesn't the M30 use an AFM and not a MAF?

2 days ago I replaced the front shocks with Bilsteins B6 HD and used the Bavauto camber/castor plate kit. The ride is phenominal. Big difference from what it was before. So glad I finally got the chance to do this, but what a job it was.

[CroughtonE32]

Actually the M30 has an Air Flow Sensor. Some call it the Air Flow Meter. Can really screw up your idle as well as create a stalling problem if dirty or just bad. It did with me. I did everything I was told and cleaning it well, fixed it for quite a while. Eventually I replaced it with an extra used one my friend had laying around, and all was good. So I bought a new one from GetBwmParts.com. Long time ago. Has been good even since. The one on my 1990 M30 looks like this.

[NE32]

Doesn't the M30 use an AFM and not a MAF?

2 days ago I replaced the front shocks with Bilsteins B6 HD and used the Bavauto camber/castor plate kit. The ride is phenominal. Big difference from what it was before. So glad I finally got the chance to do this, but what a job it was.

I've been mulling over getting some camber plates. My front right has some camber going on but nothing too extreme. Ride is firmed up for you?

Installed front M-Tech Sway bar, the rear is still in the garage awaiting new drop links to arrive

It's great to see everyone giving their e32s some love!

[eawright301]

This will be my next step. It doesn't need to look dirty to need a cleaning, right? And yes, Serge & Croughton, you're right- Bentley says "DME 1,3 uses a vane-type airflow sensor." Not MAF as I initially typed.

You might want to try giving it a good cleaning. When I had that fault code years ago, I did and got another five years out of it before replacing it at about 155000. Doesn't have to be this, but it works well.

[Zieg]

This will be my next step. It doesn't need to look dirty to need a cleaning, right? And yes, Serge & Croughton, you're right- Bentley says "DME 1,3 uses a vane-type airflow sensor." Not MAF as I initially typed.

I ordered the parts to have the A/C redone and then I rolled down the windows opened the sun roof and drove the hell out of it on some nice twisty back roads! For those who are not aware Central Florida's "Mount Dora" area ( elevation 104 ft. above sea level) where I live has some really nice twisty back roads.

[CroughtonE32]

I ordered the parts to have the A/C redone and then I rolled down the windows opened the sun roof and drove the hell out of it on some nice twisty back roads! For those who are not aware Central Florida's "Mount Dora" area ( elevation 104 ft. above sea level) where I live has some really nice twisty back roads.

Hey Zieg, Are you just converting from R12, or are you replacing big parts. Compressor, Evaporator, Condenser? I've been through that twice so far since 1990.

[Zieg]

Hey Zieg, Are you just converting from R12, or are you replacing big parts. Compressor, Evaporator, Condenser? I've been through that twice so far since 1990.

Hi Jeff;

The car has previously been converted to R134 at some time. I am having replaced the sword, blower motor, compressor, expansion valve hoses and dryer. I am not replacing the condenser or the evaporator. Based on the fact that before the compressor went out the A/C was so cold you could hang meat in the car plus the additional costs I decided they were not necessary to replace.

Zieg

[CroughtonE32]

I just replaced my blower motor. It was just hanging up. I could hear it clicking on but I had to give the dash board a good punch to make the motor start spinning. Bought a BEHR and replaced it. I also bought a new SWORD from Programa, but since mine is still functioning, I decided to just keep it for a later date. Mine is original and sure to act up down the line. I was also able to get it on sale for $115.00, so I got it at a good time. Just keeping it in my E32 "Parts Store" in the corner of my trunk. Being in Florida like you I've had to replace the expansion valve so many times over the past 28 years. I might suggest, since to get to it, you'll have to loosen up the A/C lines under the hood, drop the glove box and panel and when you slide the evaporator out to get to the expansion valve, if it has a copper coil you might want to replace it with an aluminum one. They work much better with 134a than the copper ones. BMW shipped the E32 with both, so you never know what you've got. You've already done the labor so, just a thought. Unless you can get to the expansion valve from the drivers side.....which I've never seen done. That's the place we always get our A/C units to leak. I still have my original condenser. Been lucky with that. What's your plan for a new compressor? My car came with the Seiko compressor and I've changed it twice. Both times I was able to get the exact one, but they are really going up in price. The first time I replaced it I paid about 650. The last time it had gone up to a little over 800 and now I see it for 1075. I'm sure there are others that you can make fit. Let me know what you end up using. People in the rest of the country don't realize that here in Florida we never drive the car without the A/C on. At least in South Florida. That's why we're always replacing them.

[CamE32]

Today I installed a new ICV hose in an attempt to solve a rough idle on cold starts, but to no avail. The old one was hard as a rock though, so it couldn't have hurt! That little hose is only around $7 and I bet a lot of M30's could be idling smoother with a new one... just my 2 cents.

Also today, I installed a new expansion tank cap! I drove it some and then let it cool, and the level hasn't gone down at all!! Beforehand it would always go down to an inch below the fill line and then stay there indefinitely. Definitely just a faulty cap.

Last but not least, I bought some new OEM BMW torx bolts to reattach the drivers seat plastic molding... it's the little things, right guys?

[SergeBMW]

Today I installed a new ICV hose in an attempt to solve a rough idle on cold starts, but to no avail. The old one was hard as a rock though, so it couldn't have hurt! That little hose is only around $7 and I bet a lot of M30's could be idling smoother with a new one... just my 2 cents.

Also today, I installed a new expansion tank cap! I drove it some and then let it cool, and the level hasn't gone down at all!! Beforehand it would always go down to an inch below the fill line and then stay there indefinitely. Definitely just a faulty cap.

Last but not least, I bought some new OEM BMW torx bolts to reattach the drivers seat plastic molding... it's the little things, right guys?

Always in the small details, I do the same. I even bought the plastic bolts for the pedal cover.

I fixed my fog lights and side marker lights. Rotted out connector behind the bumper. I guess now I know why they replaced it with just a straight harness after 1990.

I also replaced my aux fan low speed resistor with one from Amazon, $5. Now that I fixed that the AC is warmer than normal. I noticed the outside temp was reading - 35 but creeping up slowly, hopefully that's the cause until it goes back up to ambient temp 87


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[CamE32]

Always in the small details, I do the same. I even bought the plastic bolts for the pedal cover.

I fixed my fog lights and side marker lights. Rotted out connector behind the bumper. I guess now I know why they replaced it with just a straight harness after 1990.

Inspired by your post, I may attempt to fix my fog lights this weekend! They've been inoperable since I got it, but the indicator comes on the dash and no fuses get blown if I leave them 'on'. I'll have to start digging! Maybe it's a similar problem to yours because mine is an earlier e32

[SergeBMW]

Inspired by your post, I may attempt to fix my fog lights this weekend! They've been inoperable since I got it, but the indicator comes on the dash and no fuses get blown if I leave them 'on'. I'll have to start digging! Maybe it's a similar problem to yours because mine is an earlier e32

It's a typical problem with the E32. What year is yours? The pre 90s or so had that connector that would fill with water and rot away. The cables themselves become disconnected from the metal falling apart. Mine would also indicate that they were on in the dash and no blown fuses since it wasn't a short.
It's pretty easy to do, pulling the bumper was easy. Look at the Fog Lights Fixed thread, I posted on there too, Erich has good info on that as well. Just remove the whole bumper and cover as one.

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[Zieg]

It's a typical problem with the E32. What year is yours? The pre 90s or so had that connector that would fill with water and rot away. The cables themselves become disconnected from the metal falling apart. Mine would also indicate that they were on in the dash and no blown fuses since it wasn't a short.
It's pretty easy to do, pulling the bumper was easy. Look at the Fog Lights Fixed thread, I posted on there too, Erich has good info on that as well. Just remove the whole bumper and cover as one.

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Jeff.
I was planning on ordering a complete 4 season kit from Rock auto contains the compressor, drier and expansion valve about $450 with the core charge. I purchased a sword from Cory in RI last year that I never installed and I am purchasing a Behr blower.

I will not be doing the work myself. . . I have a mechanic I trust who will be doing the install. I expect to have new hose made to fit after everything is fitted.

[CroughtonE32]

Jeff.
I was planning on ordering a complete 4 season kit from Rock auto contains the compressor, drier and expansion valve about $450 with the core charge. I purchased a sword from Cory in RI last year that I never installed and I am purchasing a Behr blower.

I will not be doing the work myself. . . I have a mechanic I trust who will be doing the install. I expect to have new hose made to fit after everything is fitted.

Hope all goes well with the work. Can't think of anything more important down here than A/C other than maybe the brakes. One suggestion you might want to remind your mechanic of. I missed this thing twice. There is a wire called the Evaporator temperature sensor. It's part number 64518364458. It plugs into the evaporator right where the expansion valve is. If it's left hanging or not plugged in everything will work fine, but the compressor will not cycle on and off as it should. It will just stay on all the time like they did on old Fords. If it's connected correctly the compressor will last twice as long. Lots of people forget about this wire because without it everything works just perfect. Good luck.

[Zieg]

Hope all goes well with the work. Can't think of anything more important down here than A/C other than maybe the brakes. One suggestion you might want to remind your mechanic of. I missed this thing twice. There is a wire called the Evaporator temperature sensor. It's part number 64518364458. It plugs into the evaporator right where the expansion valve is. If it's left hanging or not plugged in everything will work fine, but the compressor will not cycle on and off as it should. It will just stay on all the time like they did on old Fords. If it's connected correctly the compressor will last twice as long. Lots of people forget about this wire because without it everything works just perfect. Good luck.

Thank's for the tip I will be sure to let him know.

[NE32]

All this talk of AC is making me want to finish my own! Been riding around for 2 years without it working...

[Zieg]

All this talk of AC is making me want to finish my own! Been riding around for 2 years without it working...

Unfortunately there are very few days of the year where you do not use your A/C in Florida. And once I get this one repaired I have to do the same thing to Gretel my 84 633CSi! It just never stops.

My expression is that you have to have a particular and peculiar type of personality to own these cars. After the 633CSi my next purchase and project may be a 1973 Triumph Stag. Is there any cure for this disease of old car mania other than death?

[G46]

https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...h-dis-assembly

did this, see post #19

[NE32]

Unfortunately there are very few days of the year where you do not use your A/C in Florida. And once I get this one repaired I have to do the same thing to Gretel my 84 633CSi! It just never stops.

My expression is that you have to have a particular and peculiar type of personality to own these cars. After the 633CSi my next purchase and project may be a 1973 Triumph Stag. Is there any cure for this disease of old car mania other than death?

Older cars just have charm about them! Even at my relatively young age I'm just hooked. I want a big two coupe as the next car I add to the fleet. Either getting an E31 or a MB 560SEC

[NE32]

Changed the rear sway bar links. The old ones weren't in that bad of shape other than being dirty. Getting the new ones on the sway bar was much more of a struggle than I like to admit! Pitman arms are next on the list!

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