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Thread: 850 valve spring tool

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Southern Ontario
    Posts
    244
    My Cars
    93 850Ci

    850 valve spring tool

    Can anyone recommend a valve spring tool, available in North America...for doing the springs on an 850...

    and advice would be appreciated,

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    San Francisco, CA
    Posts
    1,532
    My Cars
    1972 3.0 CSi-1988 M6
    Just got my Esgen 13168 valve spring tool from: http://www.samstagsales.com/esgen.htm Bought this item through their eBay site though. German made and looks identical to the Midlock tool which is in short supply and seems not available anywhere at the moment.

    Also got this valve stem seal pliers from Aga Tools: http://www.agatools.com/tool/n62-val...al-tool/pliers Tool received is slightly different than pictured, may their latest design and probably better. Under $200 including shipping for both tools.
    Bert
    91 850i-A
    72 3.5 CSi (L-jet, Getrag 265 5 speed)
    88 ///M6

    The back to back to back "BIG COUPE" trio

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Southern Ontario
    Posts
    244
    My Cars
    93 850Ci
    I was looking at this: http://www.ctatools.com/index.php?ro...product_id=468

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by M6csi View Post

    Also got this valve stem seal pliers from Aga Tools: http://www.agatools.com/tool/n62-val...al-tool/pliers Tool received is slightly different than pictured, may their latest design and probably better. Under $200 including shipping for both tools.
    Those pliers are sweet!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Location
    toronto, ontario
    Posts
    35
    My Cars
    1991 BMW 850i
    I did mine on car with a kd tools 3087. I had 3 others and this is the only one that worked. Bought in Canada and was cheap.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Southern Ontario
    Posts
    244
    My Cars
    93 850Ci
    Quote Originally Posted by pollack138 View Post
    I did mine on car with a kd tools 3087. I had 3 others and this is the only one that worked. Bought in Canada and was cheap.

    Where did you find it? I can't find one anywhere, anyone that carried it is out of stock...

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Southern Ontario
    Posts
    244
    My Cars
    93 850Ci
    Quote Originally Posted by Sundancer View Post
    Where did you find it? I can't find one anywhere, anyone that carried it is out of stock...
    found one, in the UK, here in 10 days...thanks for the advice...

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Location
    toronto, ontario
    Posts
    35
    My Cars
    1991 BMW 850i
    Just replied to your PM, great that you found one.
    Last edited by pollack138; 04-19-2018 at 07:04 PM.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Location
    toronto, ontario
    Posts
    35
    My Cars
    1991 BMW 850i
    As discussed in our PM here are some tips for doing valve seals based on a 1991 M70 -I posted this publicly so others could have a chance to chime in with their own opinions, additions or corrections if needed.


    Before you start - This is a good time to run some Seafoam cleaner through the engine if it is still running. You are going to be changing the oil anyway after this job and the Seafoam will help remove sludge deposits before dealing with all the internal parts. This could also help your ticking lifter noise issue and save a ton of money if you don't have to replace 24 lifters. Downside is you have to run it for a hundred or so kilometers before and after treatment to see results.

    1. There are four electrical connectors you will need to remove just above the water pump for the crank and ignition sensors. Many people get these mixed up and it causes a lot of confusion. Mark/photograph the position of each sensor connector AND EACH WIRING HARNESS CONNECTOR (2 BLACK, 2 TAN) so there is no doubt about where they go.

    2. Take the intake manifold that bolts to the left (north america driver's) side cylinder head off first and install last. This gives you easier access to the passenger side fuel line attachment brackets. For the intake nuts use an approximately 2 ft in extension for your 1/4" ratchet. I have used wobble extensions or a 1/4" universal with electrical tape wrapped around it to prevent the joint from bending too much. A mid length 10mm socket works best but can be hard to find. I bought mine from Snap On. Glue a small round neodymium magnet (available at Princess Auto) to the inside of the 10mm socket - helps keep the keeps the nuts in the socket while installing the manifolds. Wrapping each nut with a tiny bit of paper towel and jamming them into the socket also works.

    3. Make sure all cylinder head oil return holes are covered up with rags or plugged. The valve keepers are a bit of a pain to reinstall and if you drop one it will very likely find its way to one of these holes and end up deep in the oil pan. Will ruin your day.

    4. You don't have to always replace expensive intake gaskets. My personal opinion is as long as there aren't any cracks in the contact surfaces you can use Canadian Tire's Grey silicone gasket maker. It is a bit of a judgement call and if you aren't sure replace the gaskets. This is also a weak point on the M70 and can cause big headaches diagnosing drivability and idle issues.

    5. Coat all fuel injector upper and lower seals with oil or silicone grease. Makes the fuel rails much easier to install and far less likely to leak.

    6. Banjo bolts for the oil distribution pipe must be dealt with, they tend to loosen up and can cause major top end damage. I personally just make sure the bolts and the threads in the holes they go into are free from oil (brake cleaner works well) and use red loctite. Check the forums for alternate methods, some people feel strongly about using retainers.
    Last edited by pollack138; 04-22-2018 at 07:38 AM.

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