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Thread: Problems to look for when buying a used E34

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
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    1991 BMW 525i

    Problems to look for when buying a used E34

    Hi all. Been a looooonnnngggg time since I last posted on this board but the BMW bug is biting me again. I've got a coworker with a '91 525i that wants to unload it for $500. We got it running over the weekend after sitting for a year. Amazingly it started after cranking a few time and idles smoothly. It still moves (auto trans). I haven't had a BMW since 2009 so my memory's somewhat fuzzy on unique issues to look for. I was planning on changing all fluids and filters, and doing a front to rear cleanup and inspection on all the major systems. It does leak a bit of trans fluid from the pan gasket I think so that'll get changed.

    What else should I be looking for that might be a pain to fix?

    It does have 303000 miles but did not smoke at all when running or revving.
    Last edited by trackerrrr; 04-17-2018 at 12:28 AM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
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    01 M5, 93 M5, 94 525iT
    This may be the only response you get or you'll get 100. If it's been sitting for that long in Nevada there's a pretty big list of things to replace assuming there is no evidence they'd been completed prior to it sitting, plus that's a lot of miles.

    Anything external on the engine that transports fluid. Cooling system/hoses, fuel system pump/filter/rubber hoses and oil lines/plastic valves. Rubber suspension bits, belts, fan motor (to avoid fire), cabin air filter (if it's full of leaves/debris you can bet the fan motor area is too), trunk wiring hatch (source of many electrical issues) and giubo. Other rubber gaskets and seals should also be looked at closely and shocks/struts for seepage. I prefer to replace obvious original parts if they have to be removed to repair something else. At that mileage the original AC compressor, water pump, starter and alternator are all candidates for replacement if they've survived this long.

    Cheap old cars usually aren't cheap for long. Welcome back and good luck!
    Tommy L.

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  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
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    NW suburban Chicago
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    hiss by my window
    Quote Originally Posted by Kingpin025 View Post
    This may be the only response you get or you'll get 100. If it's been sitting for that long in Nevada there's a pretty big list of things to replace assuming there is no evidence they'd been completed prior to it sitting, plus that's a lot of miles.

    Anything external on the engine that transports fluid. Cooling system/hoses, fuel system pump/filter/rubber hoses and oil lines/plastic valves. Rubber suspension bits, belts, fan motor (to avoid fire), cabin air filter (if it's full of leaves/debris you can bet the fan motor area is too), trunk wiring hatch (source of many electrical issues) and giubo. Other rubber gaskets and seals should also be looked at closely and shocks/struts for seepage. I prefer to replace obvious original parts if they have to be removed to repair something else. At that mileage the original AC compressor, water pump, starter and alternator are all candidates for replacement if they've survived this long.

    Cheap old cars usually aren't cheap for long. Welcome back and good luck!
    Wisdom for the ages there^
    Rust is the #1 killer so being in Nevada that's probably not an issue. Auto trans failure is prob #2, see to it that elderly trans is serviced.
    Everything that goes wrong with these cars is DIY -able if you are dedicated, all the second hand parts and info you'll need lies here with the members.
    Can't get hurt for $500.
    Welcome and good luck!

    If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

  4. #4
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by ross1 View Post
    Wisdom for the ages there^
    Rust is the #1 killer so being in Nevada that's probably not an issue. Auto trans failure is prob #2, see to it that elderly trans is serviced.
    Everything that goes wrong with these cars is DIY -able if you are dedicated, all the second hand parts and info you'll need lies here with the members.
    Can't get hurt for $500.
    Welcome and good luck!
    I've still got my Bentley manual and a lot of tools. I do most of my own work and I've got salvage yards full of E34s here so I think I'll be fine. I'm driving a $400 Dakota I got almost two years ago and a $125 Mercury Capri in the garage I'm working on. Cheap cars work for me.

    Thanks for the replies, I do appreciate them.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by Kingpin025 View Post
    This may be the only response you get or you'll get 100. If it's been sitting for that long in Nevada there's a pretty big list of things to replace assuming there is no evidence they'd been completed prior to it sitting, plus that's a lot of miles.

    Anything external on the engine that transports fluid. Cooling system/hoses, fuel system pump/filter/rubber hoses and oil lines/plastic valves. Rubber suspension bits, belts, fan motor (to avoid fire), cabin air filter (if it's full of leaves/debris you can bet the fan motor area is too), trunk wiring hatch (source of many electrical issues) and giubo. Other rubber gaskets and seals should also be looked at closely and shocks/struts for seepage. I prefer to replace obvious original parts if they have to be removed to repair something else. At that mileage the original AC compressor, water pump, starter and alternator are all candidates for replacement if they've survived this long.

    Cheap old cars usually aren't cheap for long. Welcome back and good luck!
    I found that out the hard way with a Ford pickup I had a few years back. Lost a lot of money on that one but it was super easy to work on and get parts for.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
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    Carrboro, NC
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    '91 525i (5sp)
    Everything said is spot on; ~30 y.o. plastic and rubber will be pretty much on its last legs (other stuff worth mentioning is plastic cooling system parts). If you have your Bentley, you're used to work on your cars, and you know BMWs, then you know you can't go wrong, not to mention, at that price!

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Albuquerque, NM
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    way too many
    Check Shogun's link to "Philly Bob's" inspection tips, preserved from an old Roadfly thread:

    http://twrite.org/shogunnew/topmenu.html

    Go to "Checklists" "Pre-purchase"

    E34 issues will be very similar to those which e32's have.
    Last edited by TheStigg; 04-18-2018 at 09:34 AM.
    ​"The US Olympics bobsled team has renamed their sled 'Biden' because nothing has taken America downhill faster"

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  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
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    2017 M3 6sp
    Honestly guys, I think at this age all this pointless. Car will have issues regardless. You get it because you want it, not because it's a financially smart decision. And if you want perfect E34 - how much you paid ($500, $1000, $5000) probably doesn't make much difference. One exception - if you pay more for CA car with no rust.

    1. You have to work on car yourself or have unlimited budget
    2. Most parts that affect "driving" affordable and available
    3. If you want perfect interior - that's going to be tough, but seems like some people don't mind holes in leather and peeling cards.

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