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Thread: 1995 E36 Won't start - Fuel gauge MIA

  1. #1
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    1995 E36 Won't start - Fuel gauge MIA

    I drove and parked my 1995 325i yesterday afternoon. Today I get in it and it cranks but won't start ... and I notice the fuel gauge isn't working.

    Is there a fuse or relay I need to be looking at?

    Thanks in advance

  2. #2
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    For the fuel gauge google the E36 cluster self test, IIRC hold down the trip reset and turn key to position 1 and keep holding.

    All the working gauges will cycle full deflection and back.

    This is independent of the car so a fail here means internal cluster fault.
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  3. #3
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    I'm scrambling to locate my 2007 copy of BMW TIS but I believe it sez' my 1995 E36 (last 7 of VIN FM23075) was mfg in May of 1995.

    The cluster self test did nothing - no sweep.

    Would a cluster failure stop the engine from starting?

  4. #4
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    Cranks but doesn't start can be the fuel pump or the cam sensor.
    Attn. NEWBIES: Use the search feature, 98% has already been discussed.
    Click the search button, select "search single content type", select the "e36 sub forum" specifically, try the "search titles" then try the "search entire posts".

  5. #5
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    Fuse 31. Kills the gas gauge and temp gauge I think and causes no start. Mine went last year literally during my state inspection. That was embarrassing.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by BasilRathbone View Post
    I'm scrambling to locate my 2007 copy of BMW TIS but I believe it sez' my 1995 E36 (last 7 of VIN FM23075) was mfg in May of 1995.

    The cluster self test did nothing - no sweep.

    Would a cluster failure stop the engine from starting?
    If you get ignition lights and the digital miles thingy lighting up then either all your gauges are broke or you didn't do it right. You can see info scrolling on the digi display before they go full cycle.
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  7. #7
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    Fuse 31 is NOT blown. In fact, absolutely none of the fuses are blown. I checked each and every one of them.

    I've seen several videos of failed instrument clusters yet the engine starts and runs even though the instrument cluster is dead.

    I think I'm gonna' check the EWS ... BTW will a "tripped" EWS lock the instrument cluster?
    Last edited by BasilRathbone; 04-17-2018 at 11:55 PM.

  8. #8
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    ^ No the cluster does not care about EWS

    Read my last post again and give more detail about what lights and is displayed on the cluster.
    Pictures may help
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  9. #9
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    Check power to the pump at the connection to the pump. Also check ground from that connector to the body.
    1997 328is - Megasquirt PNP, Holset HX35, Deka 80lb injectors, SPA T3, Precision PW39 WG, Synapse Synchronic BOV, DKM Organic Twin Disc Clutch, Innovate LC-2 W/B, Mishimoto Intercooler, Mishimoto Catch Can, Mishimoto Rad, Devils Own Meth, Porsche 911 calipers with E46 M3 rotors, Corsa Exhaust

  10. #10
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    crank sensor is a common failure and cause for crank/no start.

    Check the difficult-to-reach plug and measure for resistance. (should be ~600ohms IIRC)
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  11. #11
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    STOMP test for flash codes if not already done. Start at the beginning.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by BasilRathbone View Post
    I've seen several videos of failed instrument clusters yet the engine starts and runs even though the instrument cluster is dead.
    I've driven mine without a cluster fitted at all.
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  12. #12
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    Okay, let's go to the basics.

    Put gas in the car. Do you know without a doubt that there is gas in the car? Could somebody have sucked it out? Could you have parked the car empty, and now it won't start? (My wife put the car away once without enough gas to get it out again.)

    Until you know there are several gallons of gas in the tank, you have no clue that the gas gauge is broken on not, and if the car doesn't start then it is out of gas. You can put in 2 gallons of gas, but this might not be enough to make the needle budge. You can put in 5 gallons, and the needle will move off of its parking spot. The car still might not start, but you will know that it isn't out of gas.

    - - - Updated - - -

    There is no relation between the car not starting and the gas gauge not working, except if the tank is empty. If the tank was full and the gas gauge did not work, the car would still start.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by JDStrickland View Post
    Okay, let's go to the basics.
    .............................Until you know there are several gallons of gas in the tank, you have no clue that the gas gauge is broken on not,
    You do if you do the cluster test.
    You also do if you have the OBC, you unlock it and try test 7
    Also the out of fuel warning light will usually work if the fault is the gauge. No light = range over 50 miles and / or >8 litres

    If it won't sweep full scale on the cluster test in sync with the other gauges it won't no matter how full the tank is. The end.



    Examples............................

    Cluster working

    http://www.atcy66.dsl.pipex.com/bmw/...terWorking.wmv

    Same cluster not working

    http://www.atcy66.dsl.pipex.com/bmw/...sterBroken.wmv
    Last edited by E36328Coupe; 04-20-2018 at 05:11 PM.
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  14. #14
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    E36328Coupe -

    The "Stomp Test" didn't produce codes as described. The check engine light flashes short, pause, then long ... and then simply repeats. I have no idea what flashing short then long means from the documentation provided.

    I made a video of the test but don't know how to upload it here. I posted it at:

    http://icms.duckdns.org/videos/20180...Stomp_Test.mkv

    Hopefully, you can access it through that link.
    Last edited by BasilRathbone; 04-20-2018 at 07:02 PM.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by BasilRathbone View Post
    E36328Coupe -

    The "Stomp Test" didn't produce codes as described. The check engine light flashes short, pause, then long ... and then simply repeats. I have no idea what flashing short then long means from the documentation provided.

    I made a video of the test but don't know how to upload it here. I posted it at:

    http://icms.duckdns.org/videos/20180...Stomp_Test.mkv

    Hopefully, you can access it through that link.
    What documentation?
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  16. #16
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    Sorry, E36328Coupe ... here:

    http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/669551



    Subject: BMW E30 Motronic Fault Codes - stomp test
    Author:
    shogun(moderator) : member since March, 2004 : 19062 posts
    Posted on: 2009-06-08 19:09:31




    Procedurefor acquiring error codes from Bosch Motronic DME - aka "StompTest"

    BMW e30 s, which are 1988 and newer, have BoschMotronic versions M1.1, M1.3 and M.7 and can display fault diagnosticcodes. Procedure for obtaining codes is:

    ■For safetyreasons, put the transmission in neutral, and turn the ignition keyto "On" position but do not start the car

    ■Inquick succession fully depress and release accelerator pedal 5 (five)times

    ■After couple of seconds Check Engine light willblink once, and start to flash code(s)

    ■All codes arecomposed of 4 digits (see table below). For example, code 1211 isrepresented as Blink, pause, Blink Blink, pause, Blink, pause,Blink

    ■When code(s) start to repeat, all of them havebeen displayed
    Fault Code description

    Motronic FaultCode 1211 Malfunction DME Control Unit Error Description

    1211- DME, Motronic computer, related fault - which may indicate problemwith car computer itself. Delete any stored codes and performfollowing test: Start the car and let it run for 30 seconds; Turn offcar and let it sit for another 30 seconds; Perform diagnostic testagain; If the same flash code re-appears DME should be replaced

    1215- Indicates problem relating to Air / Mass Flow Meter - AFM or MAFdepending on your e30 model. Causes could be cable wire damage, shortcircuit in the unit, or air / vacuum leak (check air intake hose -big L-shaped one

    1216 - Designates error withpotentiometer in Throttle Position sensor. Some later model cars havepotentiometer, as opposed to switch (TPS) found on majority of e30 s.This code will be active if inappropriate sensor values are read bycontrol unit, and although presence of this fault code may indicatebad potentiometer, wire harness connection at the sensor is commonissue (corroded, loose connection, or broken).

    1221 -Fault related to Oxygen ( O2 ) sensor is present if the sensor isunplugged, bad / not-operational, or sensor values are out of range.Test the O2 sensor for proper operation, as well as check harnessconnections by the sensor and by the battery tray in the enginecompartment.

    1222 - Lambda control fault code is producedwhen Motronic system in Bosch control unit receives signal indicatingthat air/fuel mixture is either excessively rich or excessively leanfor period of time loner then 10 seconds. Majority of the causes thataffect drivability of the car can be responsible for DME flashingthis error:

    airleak
    •defective Air Flow Meter ( AFM)
    •bad enginetemperature sensor
    •incorrect fuel pressure
    •problemwith injector(s)
    •defective evaporation system
    •emptygas tank
    •issue with spark plugs
    •problem withvalves
    •etc.

    1223 - This fault code indicatesproblem relating to Coolant Temperature Sensor (CTS). Test the CTSsensor for proper functionality and check sensor wiring andconnections

    1224 - Fault with Air Temperature Sensor ,which can indicate bad sensor, break or short in wires

    1231- Battery Voltage / DME Main Relay error code can mean that batteryvoltage is out of range (either too high or too low), or that batterywas disconnected. Test charging system and /or battery to findproblem cause.

    1232 - Error associated with "idle"portion of Throttle Position Switch. Test TPS for properoperation.

    1233 - Error associated with "WOT"(Wide Open Throttle) portion of Throttle Position Switch. Test TPSfor proper operation

    1251 - Fuel Injectors (group #1)fault can indicate problem with either individual injector or firstgroup of injectors. Solution is to check fuel injector connectors,wiring from DME to injectors, and to test injector(s) for properspray pattern. Additionally, fault code 1283 could be set inconjunction with this one.

    1252 - Same as 1251

    1261- Fuel Pump Relay Control code indicates break or short circuitassociated with fuel pump relay. Test for proper signal on number 3pin on DME. It can also mean that output stage of DME is faulty(Motronic version 1.3 only)

    1262 - Possible causes forIdle Speed Control fault are:
    •damaged wiring to the idlespeed actuator
    •wire from DME is defective
    •outputstage of DME is damaged
    Also if engine stalls while it is above600 RPM, code 1262 will be set

    1263 - Purge Valve faultcan indicate that Evaporative Control Valve is faulty, that wire fromDME to the valve is damaged, or problem with output stage of DME(Motronic version 1.3 only)

    1264 - EGO Heater error codeis stored if there is fault with Oxygen Sensor Heather or it's relay, Air Pump relay, supply wiring, or wire from DME

    1444 -No errors

  17. #17
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    There is a PDF online with the above in and more detail on the "counting flashes" You aren't getting a 1444 so I would google that an check your process
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  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by BasilRathbone View Post
    E36328Coupe -

    The "Stomp Test" didn't produce codes as described. The check engine light flashes short, pause, then long ... and then simply repeats. I have no idea what flashing short then long means from the documentation provided.

    I made a video of the test but don't know how to upload it here. I posted it at:

    http://icms.duckdns.org/videos/20180...Stomp_Test.mkv

    Hopefully, you can access it through that link.


    This is the way it displays the codes. You count the flashes and jot down code sequences of four digits, 1221 for exmple.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by BasilRathbone View Post
    E36328Coupe -

    The "Stomp Test" didn't produce codes as described. The check engine light flashes short, pause, then long ... and then simply repeats. I have no idea what flashing short then long means from the documentation provided.

    I made a video of the test but don't know how to upload it here. I posted it at:

    http://icms.duckdns.org/videos/20180...Stomp_Test.mkv

    Hopefully, you can access it through that link.

    Here's a link with full and proper description
    http://www.e38.org/e32/bmw%20code%20defaut.pdf
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  20. #20
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    Fair doos it does appear to do as you say, short blink / long blink

    How many times did you try it? After that you need an ADS interface with mistreku.zip
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  21. #21
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    E36328Coupe -

    I tried it several times with same results ... maybe if I hold my tongue differently though.

    Thanks for the PDF link! I'll be pouring over it when I get a minute.

    I'll throw my Peake tool on it when I get a minute. I've been up to my arse with my E46 and have been picking at the E36 as time permits ... I'll also check out this "mistreku.zip" thing, whatever that is.

    It's gotta' be something common that's failed, something stupid ...
    Last edited by BasilRathbone; 04-22-2018 at 02:38 AM.

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