207k stock e36 328is

[anonymous4l]

Hey Y'all,

My clutch just took a dump on me after 207k on it. I need a little advice on what to work on and what to replace. An suggestions for clutch? Like brands and websites? Also naything else I should tend to while clutch is being fixed?

So far I've updated:
lower control arms
bushings
RTAB
upgrade suspension
change rotors front
changed radiator, thermostat, clutch-fan
rebuilt top end of motor (head only)
flex disc (guibo)

Thanks much,

[ChuckDizzle]

Stock clutch is fine, I found an OEM clutch kit on eBay and haven't had any issues. While you're in there, replace the rear main seal.

[anonymous4l]

@ChuckDizzle - I know stock is easiest way to go, but I wanted something a little better than stock. Also, main seal is for the crank case?

Thank you,

[ChuckDizzle]

@ChuckDizzle - I know stock is easiest way to go, but I wanted something a little better than stock. Also, main seal is for the crank case?

Thank you,

Unless you're making more power, there's no need for an upgraded clutch and added expense. If big power is the plan then definitely ask around the Forced Induction section for clutch and flywheel combos.

Rear main seal location:

[watut]

Do the shifter bushings while you have the transmission out and also those darn pins

[Team Neverlift]

I wanted something a little better than stock.

Your stock clutch lasted over 200k miles. It doesn't get any better than that.

Mine is at 161k, and every time I drive it home from the track I am impressed it took the abuse....

[scooper]

some aftermarket clutches will rattle or be out of balance...so unless you are planning on making big power hit the easy button.

[Nate94]

Your stock clutch lasted over 200k miles. It doesn't get any better than that.

Mine is at 161k, and every time I drive it home from the track I am impressed it took the abuse....

Glad to hear! Mines at 135k and I cringe every time I’m rough on it!


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[woody328is]

Replace that dual mass flywheel?

[shoman24v]

I'd recommend the Valeo single mass conversion, a metal pivot pin, input shaft seal, rear main seal, center support bearing, trans mounts, flex disk, replace the shift lever bushings, and I'd also consider replacing your starter. Good time to do trans shift detents/pins, but you really need to buy the drifts to do it correctly, and it's not necessarily the easiest job.

There's more you could do while there, but I guess it just depends on your budget.

[Aeko]

I'd recommend the Valeo single mass conversion, a metal pivot pin, input shaft seal, rear main seal, center support bearing, trans mounts, flex disk, replace the shift lever bushings, and I'd also consider replacing your starter. Good time to do trans shift detents/pins, but you really need to buy the drifts to do it correctly, and it's not necessarily the easiest job.

There's more you could do while there, but I guess it just depends on your budget.

Second this plus pilot bearing. I have a 232k mile 328i I just did most of these replacements on, but opted not to replace the clutch and flywheel as mine are still good (replaced 100k miles ago roughly). I was having shifting issues so I *had* to do the shift and detent pins on my transmission and that is a hell of a job unless you have the right tools and the drifts.

This is also a good time to look at a short shift kit or dual sheer select rod if you were considering it. I don't personally find a short shifter necessary but I'm looking to get a DSSR to take the slop out of shifting. Replacing the transmission shift pins and shifter bushings does also help this quite a lot.