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Thread: P0014 needs to stop!

  1. #1
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    P0014 needs to stop!

    E46 Wagon (wife’s car) is killing me.

    In Jan I replaced the oil filter housing gasket, the valve cover gasket, spark plugs and did the vanos seals and the exhaust camshaft position sensor (with OEM BMW part) Mostly because her car was using oil and the camshaft sensor threw a code.

    Drove well, with noticeably more torque for better part of 5 6 weeks and suddenly throws p0014. Hmm.

    What I have done today?

    1. Pulled and cleaned both vanos solenoids. Both pistons move freely.

    2. Check for proper voltages at both solenoids and at the camshaft sensor. All in spec.

    3. On first startup got two scanner codes “activation vanos solenoid exhaust and inlet” so I was hopeful my prob was a dirty solenoid. I connected my scan tool but got no movement on the vanos ref position angle or the vanos exhaust actual positions on the screen.

    4. Erased the codes and took off and it drove very well. Hopeful again. Turned it off, started it back up and immediate got P0014 with the scanner Code68 “vanos exhaust camshaft end position not reached.”

    Data stream is as follows:

    Vanos inlet specified position 120.0 cr
    Vanos inlet reference position 123.1 cr
    Vanos exhaust specified position -105.0 cr
    Vanos exhaust reference position -79.4 cr
    Vanos exhaust actual position -105.0 cr

    Nothing changes with the scanner connected while revving the engine. It’s supposed to change values I believe.

    I’ve looked high and low for solution, was hoping cleaning the solenoids would do the trick.

    Need some advice on what went wrong please....

    John




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  2. #2
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    Did you remove the splined helix part from the cam gear? The part that the vanos pistons push/pull to change the timing? Or anything else that could cause a cam to be out of time? Maybe you should check the cam timing. Does the code set immediately after starting or does it take time?

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  3. #3
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    Follow this link to read up on the VANOS: http://www.beisansystems.com/procedu..._procedure.htm

  4. #4
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    P0014 can be related to two issues. Its often accompanies cooling system errors. Solve the cooling system errors and it will go away.

    If you have no cooling system errors, then the B side (exhaust) vanos solenoid is more than likely at fault.

    Note - this is not the sensor you replaced, its the solenoid that directs oil flow. There is a piston inside the solenoid that can seize up and stop moving. A simple disassembly, cleaning, and reassembly usually fixes it.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by MarcoZandrini View Post
    Follow this link to read up on the VANOS: http://www.beisansystems.com/procedu..._procedure.htm
    Thanks. I have been all over the Besian site previously.
    Good idea though.


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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by randy72877 View Post
    Did you remove the splined helix part from the cam gear? The part that the vanos pistons push/pull to change the timing? Or anything else that could cause a cam to be out of time? Maybe you should check the cam timing. Does the code set immediately after starting or does it take time?

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    Nope. Didn’t touch anything other than the vanos itself. Seems odd it would be fine for several weeks then throw the code.


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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by dhurley34 View Post
    P0014 can be related to two issues. Its often accompanies cooling system errors. Solve the cooling system errors and it will go away.

    If you have no cooling system errors, then the B side (exhaust) vanos solenoid is more than likely at fault.

    Note - this is not the sensor you replaced, its the solenoid that directs oil flow. There is a piston inside the solenoid that can seize up and stop moving. A simple disassembly, cleaning, and reassembly usually fixes it.
    No coolant errors.

    Explain? I replaced the CPS on the exhaust side, pulled both inlet and exhaust solenoids and cleaned so that the pin moved freely. Is there a more thorough cleaning required for these? How are they disassembled? Or, Is there another solenoid that I missed that can be cleaned?

    Thanks,

    John


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  8. #8
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    Have you tried swapping the solenoids from the intake and exhaust sides to see if the problem moves to the other cam? They are the same. If that doesn't change anything, remove the valve cover and check cam timing. If the cams are properly timed check the vanos unit. Pull it apart again and make sure that it's assembled correctly and that the seals are not damaged. I believe this problem started after you rebuilt the vanos unit so it seems likely that you will find the problem there. Good luck.

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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by randy72877 View Post
    Have you tried swapping the solenoids from the intake and exhaust sides to see if the problem moves to the other cam? They are the same. If that doesn't change anything, remove the valve cover and check cam timing. If the cams are properly timed check the vanos unit. Pull it apart again and make sure that it's assembled correctly and that the seals are not damaged. I believe this problem started after you rebuilt the vanos unit so it seems likely that you will find the problem there. Good luck.

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    Have not swapped them but cleaned both externally and immediately got a “solenoid active” code for both inlet and and exhaustion I assumed both function (unless that just means both are connected electrically.

    I will swap them and see (would have been my next stab at it anyway.)

    How do I check the timing? Is that something a vanos novice can easily figure out?

    Thanks,
    John


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  10. #10
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    Cleaning them internally is much more relevant, than externally.
    Check for clean electrical connections or bent pins.




  11. #11
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    Conditions that may cause Code P0014:
    Camshaft variable timing solenoid failure
    Engine oil level is too low
    The engine is not timing correctly
    The engine oil does not meet the manufacturer's requirements
    Variable valve timing actuator failure
    Worn timing chain




  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by randy72877 View Post
    Did you remove the splined helix part from the cam gear? The part that the vanos pistons push/pull to change the timing? Or anything else that could cause a cam to be out of time? Maybe you should check the cam timing. Does the code set immediately after starting or does it take time?

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    Nope, did not.


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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by MIKYZZ4 View Post
    Cleaning them internally is much more relevant, than externally.
    Check for clean electrical connections or bent pins.
    I would like to clean internally but I haven’t found a way to disassemble? Is there?


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  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oldmactech View Post
    I would like to clean internally but I haven’t found a way to disassemble? Is there?


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    You can't take it apart. Clean the oil valve with brake cleaner and compressed air. Apply 12v to the solenoid to open the valve. Pulse the solenoid on and off while cleaning and blowing the valve. That will help remove anything that could be stuck inside the valve.

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  15. #15
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    To check cam timing properly you need to get the timing tools. The tools are a tdc pin that locks the crankshaft in the tdc position and cam blocks. The pin goes into the block near the starter and engages into a hole in the flywheel at the tdc position locking the crankshaft in the proper position. The cam blocks then fit over the square part of the cam at the back of the engine and should sit flush with the cylinder head if the timing is right. I'm sure that if you search here and YouTube you will find the process in more detail. The tools can be bought from eBay and amazon for cheap.

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  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by randy72877 View Post
    To check cam timing properly you need to get the timing tools. The tools are a tdc pin that locks the crankshaft in the tdc position and cam blocks. The pin goes into the block near the starter and engages into a hole in the flywheel at the tdc position locking the crankshaft in the proper position. The cam blocks then fit over the square part of the cam at the back of the engine and should sit flush with the cylinder head if the timing is right. I'm sure that if you search here and YouTube you will find the process in more detail. The tools can be bought from eBay and amazon for cheap.

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    Thanks - I reviewed timing procedures, probably above my capabilities and tolerance. Hoping it’s not out of time, no reason it should be. If it is a shop will get it.



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  17. #17
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    UPDATE: pulled the solenoids, tested them with 12volts, cleaned the valves and springs, swapped inlet with exhaust. Wiped the codes and started up. No P0014 yet. Went for a drive, goes like a new car, smooth idle, plenty of torque. Been down this road (no pun intended) so I drove a few mile, turned off and on a few times, still no code. I hooked up my scanner and the angle changes on revving- wasn’t doing that before.

    Last PM we went out for dinner, still no code.

    I’m optimistic.

    Thanks for all that helped.
    John


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  18. #18
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    Great, it seems like you're good to go,
    I would only suggest for you to keep up with a recommended oil change schedule,
    with a good quality oil, as sludge build up will gunk up them up again.




  19. #19
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    P0014 needs to stop!

    Quote Originally Posted by MIKYZZ4 View Post
    Great, it seems like you're good to go,
    I would only suggest for you to keep up with a recommended oil change schedule,
    with a good quality oil, as sludge build up will gunk up them up again.
    Well yes, my wife is very conscientious about oil changes - even buys oil from the dealer. There was no evidence of sludge or gunk in the vanos or either solenoid or valve.

    She does still get a burning oil smell in the cabin but I’m hoping it is just from a drop or two that got out of the exhaust port.

    Now, off to find the coolant leak.

    Thanks again.




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    Last edited by Oldmactech; 04-22-2018 at 01:35 PM.

  20. #20
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    Good to hear you have probably fixed it. Time will tell. The solenoid valves are very tight clearance metal spool valves like hydraulic valves. A tiny piece of anything is all it takes to make it not open or close properly. Likely happened when you rebuilt the vanos. Cleanliness Is super important when working with these types of valves, like an AT valve body.

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  21. #21
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    For odors' try replacing cabin/microfilters(that probably have never been changed)
    with the activated carbon type, should help freshen up the air.




  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by MIKYZZ4 View Post
    For odors' try replacing cabin/microfilters(that probably have never been changed)
    with the activated carbon type, should help freshen up the air.
    Thanks-I pulled it when I did the valve cover gasket- wonder if I got it back in wrong even.


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  23. #23
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    You seem to have covered all the bases,
    I think you & the vehicle will be fine, along with an appreciative wife!




  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by MIKYZZ4 View Post
    You seem to have covered all the bases,
    I think you & the vehicle will be fine, along with an appreciative wife!
    Ongoing process to keep the boss happy.


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  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oldmactech View Post
    Ongoing process to keep the boss happy.


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    Well, crap- CEL came on first thing this morning ....

    Getting a new message on my scanner-

    6a vanos exhaust camshaft tight or jammed.
    And
    68 exhaust camshaft end position not reached.

    After deleting codes I only get 68.

    Odd.

    John


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