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Thread: Tool box drawer liner?

  1. #1
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    Tool box drawer liner?

    What are you using?
    I am a drawer slammer so need something non slip otherwise all the heavy tools wind up wound up in my existing foam type liner.
    Don't want to glue it.
    Ideas?
    Thanks.

    If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

  2. #2
    dworthy's Avatar
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    I use this stuff, and it works pretty good in my opionion: https://www.amazon.com/Rainforest-No...liner+non+slip
    Darin
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  3. #3
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    I'm using the incredibly expensive stuff off the tool truck, and, like yours. all my tools - and the drawer liner - end up in a wad, at the back of the drawer.

    We had one tech who was using yoga mats, but they didn't seem to me to offer the anti-slip necessary, plus they used a fair bit of height, in the skinny 2" drawers.

    I'll be watching this thread.......

    Chris Powell
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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by dworthy View Post
    I use this stuff, and it works pretty good in my opionion: https://www.amazon.com/Rainforest-No...liner+non+slip
    I'm using something similar but if you're a slammer of drawers, it seems to still bunch up.
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  5. #5
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    I'm not a drawer slammer....it's just that this is the wrong drawer, and the damned coolant's leaking all over the floor.

    We've got weird stuff that keeps cellphones from sliding off the dashboard (yeah, okay, it doesn't work in my car, but who'd put their cellphone on the dashboard anyway?)

    Why isn't there something that keeps tools and itself in place, at 0.01 g's?

    Chris Powell
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    Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
    BMWCCA 274412
    German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471

  6. #6
    dworthy's Avatar
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    The only time I get it wadded up is if I forget to secure the tool box in the trunk and I hit a curve that caused it to fall over, then everything is in a pile front or back, so have to do it over again. Now my roll around has the same stuff and it keeps it in place, but I too don't slam the drawers either.
    Darin
    Current:
    16 220i Active Tourer Platinsilver MET (C08)/Dakota Black (PDSW), P7ACA, P7LDA, P7LHA, P9BDA, 6sp Manual - Wife's new toy!
    05 325it Electric Red(438)/Gray(N6TT) ZCW, ZSP 5sp Manual Back set cover, trunk mat, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield, and mud flaps! Mr. Wagon My new Winter car.
    05 M3 Imolarot II(405)/Gray(N5TT) ZCW, ZPP 6sp Manual C.F. Lip, CSL diffuser, SSK, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield and a trunk liner! Mr. Go_Fast Stored for the Winter
    Past:
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    84 M535i gray market Burgandy Rot Met/Black Leather Lowered by Intrax on bilies, poly everywhere, B&B cat back system, K&N, and a hitch! Da Beast - Still running w/400k+!
    91 316i euro Tizianrot/Gray cloth - E-36 w/M-40 RIP, but great on gas! Best was 38 MPG
    82 528i euro Saphire Blue Met/Blue Leather RIP
    79 525 euro Green/Green RIP
    79 318 Silver/Black - The first one that got it all started
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  7. #7
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    Spray adhesive works great to keep drawer liners in place

    Edit:

    Come on guys, we can fix $100k+ BMW's, but can't solve a drawer liner problem!??!
    Last edited by White94RX; 04-24-2018 at 02:20 PM.
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  8. #8
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    not a slammer per se, but use this, and like it. seems to hold ok... YMMV
    Zerust 91140 Anti-Rust And Corrosion Drawer Liner


  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by White94RX View Post
    Spray adhesive works great to keep drawer liners in place

    Yeah, but when I spray it on my tools, it's hard to put them down.

    Edit:

    Come on guys, we can fix $100k+ BMW's, but can't solve a drawer liner problem!??!
    All the drawer liner stuff must have been designed by the same guy who designed the N63 engine

    So, what drawer liner do you use, my friend? Do your tools move around?

    Chris Powell
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    Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
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    German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471

  10. #10
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    Well, when I came here to United, they provide shitty toolboxes. So, my super expensive three bay snap-on box sits at home in the garage. I use the liners the box comes with. I used the spray adhesive to keep them in place, otherwise they'd end up in a wad in the back of the drawer. They're like a mesh type foam thing. I'll see if I can attach a pic.
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  11. #11
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    This:



    Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
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  12. #12
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    You want something heavy that lies flat from its own weight. Years ago, freight trucks often had roll out rubber floor lining that was about 1/8 inch thick. Someone gave me a bunch of it and I used it to line drawers and it worked great.

    The stuff that came in my harbor freight 44 inch chests is pretty good for my use.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by White94RX View Post
    This:



    Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
    I have a roll of this I bought and never used, thanks for reminding me.
    The yoga mat idea sounds interesting, wife has recently bought a new one and(knowing I am a junk collector) asked if I had any use for the old one. The question now is; Am I butch enough to pull off a pink drawer liner?
    I know gluing it would help but I want to be able to remove them easily too.

    If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by White94RX View Post
    This:



    Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
    Same stuff I have in my box drawers.
    The key to putting this liner in is to make sure the drawer bottom is clean and not full of oils or anything. Before I put the liner in I clean the drawers with brake cleaner.
    I can get pretty physical closing the drawers and nothing moves.
    Look! Before our very eyes, the future is becoming the past.

  15. #15
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    Mine still moved even with tools on them. The spray adhesive works flawlessly. Same stuff you'd use for headliners, or similar work.
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  16. #16
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    White94RX, your drawer looks so clean.....doesn't the adhesive suck up dirt, in the spaces between the material? Or maybe you sprayed the material, rather than the drawer? With your recommendation, and Darin's, I might have to try that stuff.....but I was considering this, although it's a bit expensive....

    https://www.custom-magnets.com/flexi...-ft-rolls.html

    Chris Powell
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    Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
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    German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471

  17. #17
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    I sprayed the drawer then laid down the liner. And no, none of my drawers have any real dirt in them. I don't meticulously clean my tools either. Maybe I just work in a cleaner environment. We've got tile floors, heated and cooled shop, etc.
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  18. #18
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    Guys, I have an idea about mechanically retaining the front edge of the standard thin foam type liners so it won't slide back. I'll have to investigate materials for this first, will advise.
    Meanwhile,
    Attached Images Attached Images

    If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

  19. #19
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    drawer liner retainer 004.jpgdrawer liner retainer 005.jpgdrawer liner retainer 003.jpg

    So, here's my idea. I want to retain the front edge of the typical foam liner so it doesn't slide to back of the drawer in a wad but don't want to glue it down.
    Using FRP (fiberglass reinforced panel)end cap, which is readily available at your local big box home improvement store, glazing spline and good strong double faced adhesive tape(the fair haired boys from Minnesota know their stuff, don't cheap out here) I devised a really simple and easy way to do this.

    The groove in the FRP cap is 1/8", the foam liner is barely a sixteenth. A correctly sized glazing spline will capture the liner very firmly in that channel of the FRP cap which would be taped to the front edge of the drawer bottom. The spline can be removed to change the liner without disturbing the channel provided you've used good tape, see my earlier caveat.

    The FRP channel comes in 8' lengths for about $2.50 in my neck of the woods, the glazing spline I had on hand but it is inexpensive too. The good 3M tape is several times the price of the cheapie stuff but well worth it. I can't see spending more than the price of a good meal on this project unless you have one of those sleeper sized tool chests.

    I haven't put this into service yet but can tell you the grip exceeds the strength of the liner, it will tear before it pulls out.
    Here are some photos of what I slapped together, I hope you find this useful.
    Last edited by ross1; 04-28-2018 at 10:51 AM.

    If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

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