Member
My S50 has an oil seep from the head gasket. It's really just a small patch of old oil with a damp patch in it on the passenger side near the manifold. Records from the previous owner show it was overheated about 70k miles ago, typical E36 cooling failure BS. There are no noticeable fluid losses issues and no signs of any oil or coolant mixing in either spot.
What do you make of something like this? Any chance replacing the head bolts can offer a cure? Got the idea from searching other threads.
She runs like a champ @125k miles.
Member
The head might have slightly warped if it overheated. Have you pulled the coils/plugs and checked inside the cylinders? It could possibly just be the gasket, but as has been verified to have overheated I would suspect otherwise.
If it becomes a bigger issue for you, you can get remanufactured heads for it and have them installed, but it will cost you a bit.
Last edited by Deus Ex Machina; 04-12-2018 at 10:44 PM.
Member
Are you sure it's coming from the head gasket and not the valve cover gasket?
Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
Gave away my BMWs, driving a VW and an Audi now.
Member
^ This was my first thought as well. That makes a lot more sense and is significantly easier to either ignore or address...Originally Posted by jmo69
-Josh: 1998 S54 E36 M3/4/6 with most of the easy stuff and most of the hard stuff. At least twice. 271k miles. 1994 E32 740il with nothing but some MPars. 93k miles.
Member
It was late when this was posted, I actually typed out a reply about the VCG before it hit me that he said "Head Gasket".
Member
Haha - I think we're all hoping for his sake that it's the valve cover and not the head.
-Josh: 1998 S54 E36 M3/4/6 with most of the easy stuff and most of the hard stuff. At least twice. 271k miles. 1994 E32 740il with nothing but some MPars. 93k miles.
Member
Head Gasket. As I said, it's not mixing coolant and oil, and the seep has been there a looong time. If I can simply replace the head bolts and fix like the previous generations I would, but otherwise as it's showing no symptoms and it's had this small seep for tens of thousands of miles, I'm wondering if there's any benefit in messing with it? There are no drips, no noticeable oil loss, no coolant loss, nothing but a little patch of oil on the head gasket on the passenger side. I know people get freaked out about it, but the head gasket is separating oil and coolant properly, and the only symptom is a slight oil seep externally, which has been there for a long time.
I checked with a BMW shop and they didn't seem concerned about it at all. I've never replaced a HG but I know people freak out about it.
Member
I posted a response but for some reason it's not up. Yes, I'm sure it's a slight oil seep from the head gasket, and it's been there for a LONG time. I'm guessing it started when it originally overheated a bit about 70k miles ago (happened in town, not on the track), as I know it's been there for at least half this mileage with no other events during that time. As I said, there's no mixing of oil or coolant and no noticeable loss.
Member
OP, I wouldn't worry about this at all. If cars didn't seep a tiny bit of oil they would be all rusty!
Attn. NEWBIES: Use the search feature, 98% has already been discussed.
Click the search button, select "search single content type", select the "e36 sub forum" specifically, try the "search titles" then try the "search entire posts".
Member
I would just ckean it off with a microfiber and some kerosene and roll with it. My VCG has been seeping since before I had the car, the oil loss is very small
Watch it and take action if necessary. You could always take off the Valve Cover and double check the torque specs on the head bolts, use the opportunity to replace the VCG.
Member
@Eric93se Thanks, I'm not too worried, just wanted to get some other opinions.
@Deus Ex Machina I'll try that, might just wipe it off though because the only time I get it in the air it's already hot, don't want to accidentally start a fire with heat from the headers.
Have you checked RealOEM?
BMW CCA Member
This is what I'd do. You can install ARP head studs if you really want to get things tightened down.
1993 E36 325is
2003 E46 325iT
SpeedHunters feature: http://www.speedhunters.com/2018/04/...t-dtm-tribute/
APEX feature: https://www.apexraceparts.com/blog/m...-arc-8-wheels/
Member
I wouldn't mess with the head bolts. The "correct" torque is actually a specific number done in the right pattern, then another 90° turn in the same pattern, then ANOTHER 90° turn. I'd worry messing with it causes more problems than it solves.
Just leave it alone, maybe keep an eye on it.
-Josh: 1998 S54 E36 M3/4/6 with most of the easy stuff and most of the hard stuff. At least twice. 271k miles. 1994 E32 740il with nothing but some MPars. 93k miles.
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
Bookmarks