Need some advice before I just buy parts and scatter shoot the issue -
interior buttons will not release the trunk - key fobs will not release the lock - manual key DOES release the lock
is it the microswitch on the trunk release (item 1) or the actuator itself (item 5/6)... and how can I check them??
i can hear the MS try to release it so I think that is good - but I also hear the actuator trying to release the lock ...when using the FOB ; also when doing so the lights dim on the license plate lites...so maybe the actuator is dead and drawing too much current? - but no fuses are blown ...
any help is appreciated
ah, it seems like a lot of people are having their trunks fail recently; this is the third post i’ve seen about it
there’s a good chance the wiring to your trunk actuator is damaged - it’s a common problem on these cars. you could start by checking the wiring along the passenger side trunk support for any damaged insulation
here’s a previous thread that has some more info:
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?sha...6&share_type=t
Last edited by captainfreezy; 04-12-2018 at 07:34 PM.
Well got into the trunk - literally - and worked my way thru the wire harness that runs from the microswitch on the lid to the passsenger side fender by way of the lid support tube ...adn guess what - cable was cut right at the bottom of the support arm
stripped the wire loom away; used a butt splice for 20 awg wire ; made sure the connection was good ; re-wrapped with plastic electrical wire ; butoned everything up..1.5 hours
all is now good
thanks for the help and insights ..
regards
Vinnie86
I had the same problem today, fixed the wires and replaced the actuator which was bad still not working. According to ISTA-D the module under the glove box isn't present. Any way to test for sure this part has failed? I believe the frayed wiring shorted and killed it. The part is $400 + and needs a software flash along with it.
Any guidance appreciated.
2008 535i E60
Aways check the wiring in think lids first
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