E36 M3 Front Wheel fender gap mis matched

[Genes1s]

Recently looked at a local E36M and saw that the gap between the front wheel and the front fender isn't symmetrical front and back. Looks kind of off to me and wondering why?

Capture.JPG

[lbennyboobool]

could have different lollipops on each side. Different kinds put the wheel at a different place. I don't know the ends and outs, but I've seen it happen before

[earthwormjim]

This is called caster, the owner of that car either has caster adjustable top hats, or is using an offset control arm bushing.

It's actually a good thing, you generally want as much caster as possible without scraping.

[blckstrm]

Recently looked at a local E36M and saw that the gap between the front wheel and the front fender isn't symmetrical front and back. Looks kind of off to me and wondering why?

Capture.JPG

Caster adjustable top hats are definitely one option.

Option two is they're using offset lollipop bushings from a '95 M3 on '96+ LCAs (Lower Control Arms).

Option three is that they've got their top hats messed up. There's an arrow on them that is supposed to point straight forward. If you rotate them, they adjust caster and camber in odd ways. Most people know you can switch top hats and gain camber, but rotating them also does weird stuff to camber and caster - including what you're seeing here.

[bluptgm3]

From what I’ve gathered, the 1996+M3 does not need additional caster.
The factory archived additional caster with geometry changes to Spindle/King Pin, Forward Lower Control Arms (FLCA), FLCA Bushings, and Strut Mounts/Guide Supports.
Adding Tree House Racing ‘Eyeball’ offset FLCA Mount/bushing or 1995M3 offset FLCA Bushings serves no purpose but to induce front tire rub on front fender/fender liner.

Adding offset FLCA Bushings or THR ‘Eyeball’ FLCA mount to a 318/323/328 does add needed caster, but probably should be used with 1995M3 Strut Mounts/Guide Supports to fully replicate the front end geometry of the 1995M3

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[bluptgm3]

This is called caster, the owner of that car either has caster adjustable top hats, or is using an offset control arm bushing.

It's actually a good thing, you generally want as much caster as possible without scraping.

Camber Plates would not cause as much forward movement of the front wheel/tire. CPs simply tilt the top of the strut back, rotating the Spindle/King Pin about the FLCA outer ball joint.
To me it appears as though the PO is using 1999M3 Offset FLCA Bushings, or Tree House Racing ‘eyeball’ FLCA mounts.
IMHO, neither is not required on a 1996+M3.


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[blckstrm]

Camber Plates would not cause as much forward movement of the front wheel/tire. CPs simply tilt the top of the strut back, rotating the Spindle/King Pin about the FLCA outer ball joint.
To me it appears as though the PO is using 1999M3 Offset FLCA Bushings, or Tree House Racing ‘eyeball’ FLCA mounts.
IMHO, either is not required on a 1996+M3.


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While caster-adjustable camber plates may not create that much forward movement, mis-aligned factory top hats could allow more motion (though this would very likely be on accident rather than on purpose).

See accidental misalignment below. I'm embarrassed to admit how many years I drove with it like this, as well as who told me in the first place that they mounted with the arrows pointing in (though in his defense, he had had camber plates for so long I don't really blame him).

Bad Top Hat.jpg

[bluptgm3]

Running 1996+M3 Guide Supports/Strut Mounts (correct side) with arrows facing “In” rather than “Forward” results in a camber change, probably to positive camber and a more up-right strut - less caster than desired.

The 1995M3 Guide Supports/Strut Mounts can be rotated 90 deg, but you have to swap sides... as I recall....and you gain camber but loose caster as I recall.


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[notMpowered]

Heres what a stock caster setup looks like on a 96-99 m3. Just picture it a couple inches higher.