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Thread: New clutch!

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    New clutch!

    Hey guys I scored an awesome deal on a uuc moderate weight+ clutch for 500.

    Not a day too soon, I parked my car an noticed a burning oil smell, and black oil under my bellhousing...

    Looks like my rear main most likely.

    So while I'm back there what should get replaced or refreshed?
    Rear main, what about that coolant crossover? What else is easy to get to with the trans out?

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    Quezon City, Philippines
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    '89 535i/5, '88 735i/5
    Giubo and CSB on the driveline side, shifter linkage bushings.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Billyj View Post
    Hey guys I scored an awesome deal on a uuc moderate weight+ clutch for 500.

    Not a day too soon, I parked my car an noticed a burning oil smell, and black oil under my bellhousing...

    Looks like my rear main most likely.

    So while I'm back there what should get replaced or refreshed?
    Rear main, what about that coolant crossover? What else is easy to get to with the trans out?
    YES, because you know the minute you button this up that will start to leak.
    Also a good time to refresh the shifting linkage, flex disc, blah,blah

    If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

  4. #4
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    95 540iT/6, W8 Wagon 6sp
    - throwout bearing
    - transmission input shaft seal. Buy this from BMW - there is a thread somewhere on this forum about someone who got an aftermarket one that wasn't quite the right dimensions and it leaked.
    - the wire spring thing (see parts diagram) - 21517570284
    - the black plastic bump stop - 21511223406
    - make sure you have a plan for the Torx bolts on the flywheel - either the BMW tool or a homemade one.
    - consider the shifter linkage seal at the back of the transmission. It can be done with the trans on the car, but it's painful.

  5. #5
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    E34 540i 6sp 1995-03-28
    I'd grab a UUC Evo 3 Short Shifter and Double Sheer Selector Rod and also replace the Slave Cylinder.. I did that and the pedal feel was much nicer, firmer.

    http://store.uucmotorwerks.com/ultim...-evo3-p61.aspx

    also the Transmission Mounts.
    Last edited by jehu; 04-12-2018 at 12:46 AM.

  6. #6
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    Pilot bearing
    New trans to block bolts
    Last edited by zubbie; 04-11-2018 at 02:45 PM.

  7. #7
    moroza's Avatar
    moroza is offline MORΩN ΛABIA BMW CCA Member
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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by zubbie View Post
    Pilot bearing
    New trans to block bolts
    ?

    If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by ross1 View Post
    ?
    Bellhousing bolts. At least on the M30 they are etorx and get rounded easily on removal. Some recommend replacement with standard hex head for ease of service later. (Or new etorx) Not sure of the OP's application or whether etorx was used for all versions of E34. Mine were corroded to the point where I needed new.

    http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=127258
    Last edited by zubbie; 04-12-2018 at 07:39 AM.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by zubbie View Post
    Bellhousing bolts. At least on the M30 they are etorx and get rounded easily on removal. Some recommend replacement with standard hex head for ease of service later. (Or new etorx) Not sure of the OP's application or whether etorx was used for all versions of E34. Mine were corroded to the point where I needed new.

    http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=127258
    Yeah, I've seen those bolts all beat up too. Lots of hackers out there.
    OP's car used to belong to a friend of mine who is usually pretty careful about these things. The motor was recently-ish installed so I don't think(hope) BillyJ will have this problem.

    If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

  11. #11
    Join Date
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    540i/6, 740i, m3, alfas
    Clutch fork lever, release arms really do wear out. Wear at the pivot points results in an inconsistent clutch pedal.
    arm.jpg

  12. #12
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    1995 540i & 1996 328i
    The etorx all looked fine the number of times I looked and I have snapon sockets so I should be fine from that perspective.

    I believe the previous owner did the guibos but I'm also either pulling my dif or dropping my subframe so I'll pull the driveshaft and check everything.

    Do these use a pilot bearing and can I get one individually?

    I'll look into the lever see if I can source them.

    I definitely want to do that crossover. I am also planning on doing valley pan and water pump(as it's leaking) We'll see if I can afford it. Does anyone know of an oring kit for that? Otherwise I'll hop on Realoem when I get the chance

    Going to wait on shifter upgrades (just bought a 318ti and am swapping in a fresh m44 for now) because funds are really short.

    In regards to the coolant plate, is that the one that houses the rear main? Do I need a gasket or just rtv?

    Only the input seal needs to be genuine? Others are fine aftermarket?
    Are upgraded bushings for the linakge the go to?

    Also the PO of the uuc kit had a DSSR included but I believe it is for an e39 540 if anyone is interested looked brand new.

    Also this is a 240mm if I do replace the slave should it be an e39?
    Last edited by Billyj; 04-12-2018 at 10:40 PM.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Billyj View Post
    Do these use a pilot bearing and can I get one individually?
    Yes and yes. Part #4

    Twin Mass Flywheel - BMW parts catalog

  14. #14
    moroza's Avatar
    moroza is offline MORΩN ΛABIA BMW CCA Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Billyj View Post
    I have snapon sockets so I should be fine from that perspective.
    Make sure to use the right amount of hubris, too.

    I believe the previous owner did the guibos
    Giubo, not guibo. Look it up.

    Do these use a pilot bearing and can I get one individually?
    Yes and yes, and furthermore, be careful that the pilot bearing is actually 10mm thick and fits snugly. Eight years ago I had a major hassle with most replacement pilot bearings being too thin and loosely fitting. SKF, Nachi, FAG, and whatever BMW of Berkeley stocked were all wrong. NTN was right.

    In regards to the coolant plate, is that the one that houses the rear main? Do I need a gasket or just rtv?
    It's right above the plate that houses the rear main. Do both plates, and of course the rear main itself. OE gasket vs RTV is a matter of opinion and professional preference. The bolts holding the rear coolant plate are very soft and easily broken.

  15. #15
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    I actually didn't have the proper torx for the flywheel so I used a size smaller size and the biggest impact I had. I had to use a bit more hubris than expected haha.

    I did however run into an issue getting the axle bolts out when I pulled the diff. Two of them rounded and I had to cut the heads off.

    Differential will be dropped off for welding asap, if anyone has a decent ratio spider gear I would be interested.

    Any opinions on the best rear camber correction bushings?

    I thought I saw someone post about updated ones that didn't slip but I can't find the post now...

    Going to order some new flywheel and pressure plate bolts for the uuc kit, new throw out and pilot as well.

    Probably going to pickup some shifter bushings and stick with the short throw the previous owner installed for now.
    Last edited by Billyj; 05-17-2018 at 03:44 AM.

  16. #16
    moroza's Avatar
    moroza is offline MORΩN ΛABIA BMW CCA Member
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    I've never used camber-adjusting RTABs before, but I would be strongly inclined towards using stock bushings with welded-on adjustment tabs for eccentric bolts, rather than eccentric bushings with a stock subframe.

  17. #17
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    So small update.
    Diff is welded, just need to pick it up.
    A lot of my ecs tuning stuff came I ended up getting all of the little clutch stuff (flywheel and pressure plate bolts) release fork, clips, pilot and release bearing. Will probably order a braided line and e39 slave cylinder.

    I'm still waiting for Revshift to warranty my transmission mounts that had a sheared stud.

    So I decided to do my valley pan and discovered why I had intermittent driver side cylinder bank loss.
    All four of my knock sensors are severely cracked and rusted.
    Two of them were missing the casing.
    Will be ordering four Bosch sensors.
    Hopefully the new ones cause me less trouble than the old ones haha

    What's the go to brand for injector o-rings? I'm seeing BMW and rein, I trust rein for hoses and stuff but Id prefer no fuel leaks...

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