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Thread: AWFUL noise with solid mounts

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
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    2003 325i

    AWFUL noise with solid mounts

    2003 325i. Welded Diff. Long story short, I installed lowering delrin engine and trans mounts and the result is a very loud and solid clunking noise.
    The noise was noticed while going backwards and steering to the left down the driveway (if that matters)
    Sounds like it is coming from the transmission tunnel or under the passenger floor.
    Car also has delrin subframe mounts, RTAB spacers and delrin diff mounts
    Subframe is reinforced too.
    Only conclusion I can come up with is center support bearing or guibo is tearing under load.

    Thank you for your help
    (2 videos below)

    https://drive.google.com/open?id=11k...GcNbT5GACNuSbR
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by BryceMotch; 04-09-2018 at 05:56 PM.

  2. #2
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    Forgive the captain obvious question, but have you torqued everything that you loosened?

    Lots of noise is to be expected with solid mounts, to some extent, but more in an amplify-everything sort of way rather than a oh-god-it's-broken way. I can't watch the videos right now, but will try to watch this evening.
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  3. #3
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    Yes. Twice. Two different install days. First Installed the engine/trans mounts only. Backed the car up. Heard the noise and recorded the video.
    2nd day installed the rear end mount bushings and diff mounts, backed the car up again, noise still there.
    I may have the mounts too tight, their torque spec calls for 8-10 ft lbs.

  4. #4
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    The vids sure sound like something is broken/hitting ... not the usual clunking from solid mounts. Your guibo is on it's way out, but that would not be the noise. Are you sure shifter linkeage, or something else is not hitting the driveshaft?

    Edit: Just noticed you said welded diff ... the noise form that could be being amplified through the solid mounts
    Last edited by ScotcH; 04-10-2018 at 11:42 AM.
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  5. #5
    Join Date
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    Is it only when turning the car? If so my vote is the welded diff too.

    In the corners one wheel is going to spin faster than the other, now you can feel that through your drivetrain.
    Last edited by Pat533i; 04-10-2018 at 04:37 PM.
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  6. #6
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    Yea. Welded diff. If I drive it around the block, normal speeds at lock I don't anything other than the "wheel scuff" sounds of a locked diff.
    I noticed and recorded the video while rocking back and forth in the driveway at an angle while turning.

  7. #7
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    If it were me step one would be to pull the driveshaft.
    1) Grab the input yoke of the diff and rotate back and forth vigorously - listen for noise
    2) Grab output flange of the trans (in gear), rotate back and forth vigorously - listen for noise.
    3) If no clanking, start car run trans through gears with no driveshaft - listen for noise
    4) If no noise roll car back and forth with no driveshaft - listen for noise
    5) If no noises surface, replace driveshaft and center bearing

    If your are sure, sure, sure, sure nothing is hitting anything (heat shields, exhaust, etc),,, I think its in your driveshaft somewhere either center bearing or worn / damaged u-joints
    Last edited by jimmypet; 04-11-2018 at 02:15 PM.
    jimmy p.


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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimmypet View Post
    If it were me step one would be to pull the driveshaft.
    1) Grab the input yoke of the diff and rotate back and forth vigorously - listen for noise
    2) Grab output flange of the trans (in gear), rotate back and forth vigorously - listen for noise.
    3) If no clanking, start car run trans through gears with no driveshaft - listen for noise
    4) If no noise roll car back and forth with no driveshaft - listen for noise
    5) If no noises surface, replace driveshaft and center bearing

    If your are sure, sure, sure, sure nothing is hitting anything (heat shields, exhaust, etc),,, I think its in your driveshaft somewhere either center bearing or worn / damaged u-joints
    Exhaust was cut at the headers and the heat shield has been removed. (photos were taken when removed)

    I was thinking about replacing the guibo and center bearing anyway... but they seem solid vs. some REALLY bad ones I have seen. But they looked okay already. Any reason to upgrade to a RevShift vs stock guibo?

  9. #9
    Join Date
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    If that driveshaft is original - original to the car (like 30 years old),,, I'd swap the whole assembly for a rebuilt unit.
    I have had great luck / results with these guys. I have purchased (3) E30 shafts from them and one for my 318Ti.

    http://www.driveshaftspecialist.com/...0html/BMW.html

    Fast shipping, good packaging and less expensive than the more well known entity you always hear people talk about from the PNW.

    And no,,, if you are still using a trans that needs a guibo, I have always just used a standard guibo even when I run solid mounts everywhere.
    The E30 Gruppe A cars were set up like that so I followed that lead and never messed with the guibo.
    Last edited by jimmypet; 04-12-2018 at 09:13 AM.
    jimmy p.


    88 E30 M3 Zinnoberot - street
    88 E30 M3 Lachsilber - SCCA SPU
    87 E30 M3 Prodrive British Touring Car 2.0 Litre
    04 Ford F350 - V10
    06 Audi A3 Brilliant Red / 2.0 / DSG

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