Here's to another e36 being swapped over to enjoy some proper American V8 power.
So a little over 2 years ago, I was enjoying some spirited driving over in West Virginia with some buddies, and I pulled the dreaded money shift on my poor S52. Thankfully, I have some absolutely amazing friends, and they spent the rest of their day and night driving me back to VA, getting a trailer from MD, and driving me back out to WV to pick up my stranded E36, I would've been screwed without them.
Over the next few months I decided to do an S54 swap, purchased all the parts, new seals, gaskets, cooling components, internals, you name it, over $6.5k invested total. But damn it was complex and I calculated it would cost another $5k to finish up the swap the proper way, it just started to seem not worth it.
Well after years of my friend telling me to do an LS swap, I caved in, sold my S54 and associated swap parts for a loss, and went all in and started to open up my wallet to some more hurting and bought some LS stuff.
I'll use this thread to document exactly what I bought, total cost, and any nuances i'll run into. Hopefully it can help someone out in the future who does the swap, I may actually consider a video series, but I hate editing so we'll see if thats viable.
As of now, my buddies Charlie, Shane, and I have removed the engine and transmission, exhaust, and some random bits from the engine bay. I wont dive too deep into this since if you cant knock this part out alone or with a buddy, an engine swap may not be a garage project for you.
LS1 and T56 from a 2002 Firebird with 96k miles will be arriving this Wednesday! Some pics below
Me in an empty bay, swiffer with the assist on holding the hood up, broken poor S52, my S54 ready to be shipped out, and the donor firebird that is ready to give me its heart.
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Last edited by alwaysbored786; 05-08-2018 at 10:28 AM.
LS1 & T56 have arrived! They came very well packaged via an enclosed 18 wheeler and they delivered it into my garage.
I bought it from Olmsted Automotive out in CO for $4400 shipped, real easy to deal with, showed me videos of it running, and sourced something quick. I got lucky and it seems as though the trans has had some work done to it, came with a quick disconnect AN fitting on the clutch slave, a Pro 5.0 short throw shifter, and the trans itself was painted, hoping i see a fresh clutch under there once i take it all apart.
Came with the original harness, MAF, PCM, and they did a startup tune for me which deletes the Vehicle Anti Theft System (VATS). Wiring specialties charges another $130 or so to remove VATS, ill be buying the harness from them soon enough.
Heads will be removed soon and shipped out for TEA for the stage 1 porting service, including a valve job and new springs/retainers.
JTR ceramic coated headers have been purchased and will be a nice shiny addition to the engine bay.
Hopefully the next update comes in a few days where i start tearing some stuff down. Still awaiting my engine stand, its shipping from California...i should have just picked it up from harbor freight instead of shipping...ah well.
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I am in the middle of one too! glad to see someone else haha - Good luck man. I'll be following along!
Did some minor tear down so far. Trans is pretty clean, and theres the shiny pro 5.0 shifter.
Intake manifold is off, and got the valve covers removed, pretty grody under the manifold, but overall the springs/rockers look decent, no sludge build up. Heads coming off this weekend.
Just placed a large parts order with improvedracing.com, decent prices compared to rock auto, plus its OEM stuff with free shipping, cant beat it.
I think it's safe to say you won't be bored for a while
Well, I said goodbye to my E92 this weekend, was a short run, but it was fun. The sound of this V8 is what makes me want to get the LS up and running ASAP!
was able to separate the trans from the block, got the clutch off, and it looks like it has some decent life in it, considering keeping it, but the thought of not replacing something like this while its so easy just eats at me.
Removed the heads, let me tell ya, this is WAY easier to do on an LS than an S52, literally an hours worth of work to remove these. Removing the head bolts brought up some PTSD from when i was 15. First time i ever worked on a car was my 98 civic, i removed all the valve cover bolts....or so i thought. Turns out I was tightening all the bolts and snapped all the heads off, my brother has to fix that mistake. Anyways, the head bolts on the LS were tight as hell and made a similar snapping noise, but luckily it wasn't anything to worry over.
Anyways, Charlie and I picked up the block from the mounts and the engine stand support bar, and manhandled it on the stand, no cherry picker necessary! Granted, I did get covered in coolant from the block tilting towards me, and let me tell you that I quickly learned that being covered in coolant for more than 30 min can really irritate the crap out of your skin.
No other major updates so far, waiting for parts to come through, and I will be shipping the heads out to TEA hopefully this week.
Oh, that last picture of the cracked socket? Yea, i tried to remove the crank pulley bolt with my new Milwaukee 1100 ft/lb torque removal power Impact Gun. The bolt was on so tight it cracked my harbor freight deep impact socket. Ridiculous.
Problem was solved when I removed the half inch extension I had on the gun, the bolt just spun right out after 2 seconds with a short socket and no extension. Lesson learned.
EDIT: Well, looks like my pics didnt upload, i've attached them.
Last edited by alwaysbored786; 05-08-2018 at 10:29 AM.
No major updates, some guests are coming this weekend, and next weekend includes a track day, so progress will slow down a bit during these periods.
Got the heads safely packed up and shipped out to TEA, hopefully they'll be done and arrive sometime mid-late May. Cost about $25 to ship both heads from VA to OH in one box via FedEx, WAY cheaper than i originally thought.
I got a bunch of my parts in, Melling 10295 oil pump, OEM GM head gaskets / header gaskets / head bolts / crank bolt.
Ill be ordering the Comp 228/230 cam, new lifters, lifter trays, 7.400" push rods, wiring harness, and a couple other small odds and ends soon.
If anyone wants the google drive sheet of all the parts/prices/links I used for my swap when im done with it, ill be more than happy to share.
Last edited by alwaysbored786; 05-08-2018 at 10:12 AM.
Been a while since I posted, i've got some updates.
My heads will be coming in late next week, TEA said they needed to replace 4 valve guides, but other than that, all is good. Im getting the deck skimmed, won't be taking much off based on the cam im running.
Bunch of parts came in, I decided to go with the LS2 timing chain since its stronger. Ordered the improved racing oil pan baffle since I dont want to deal with oil starvation issues too, absolute must if you plan on taking an LS car to the track. Cam came in, JTR ceramic coated headers arrived and they look great, and lots of random seals, bolts, gaskets, etc.
I decided to go with the summit racing timing cover since it already has the seal pressed in and my old cover was grody. I spent a good amount of timing cleaning the mating surface on the block, went over with a lot of brake clean and rags to get most of the crap off, then switched to a plastic razor blade to get gunk off, and ultimately switched to a metal razor blade to get the really stubborn gunk off, gotta be REALLY careful with the metal blade. Its all smooth now, and mostly clean looking, the MLS gasket is pretty forgiving about some stuff still being left on the head too just in case.
Hopefully tomorrow Ill get the oil pan baffle in, camshaft in, new LS2 valley cover on, melling 10295 oil pump installed, LS2 timing chain, and front timing cover. Then she'll be ready for the heads and headers.
Motor and trans mounts are going to arrive in a week or two, then I can test fit!
What mounts are you running with the JTR headers?
Was able to knock out a good bit this weekend, weather was fantastic.
Started out with a dirty oil pan, valley cover, and front timing cover, i flipped the motor upside down and realize i missed some spots on the block during the cleaning phase....i think it'll be fine though.
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Since im only allowed 5 images per post, and imgur/cube upload keep flipping my pics, ill just make a few posts.
Last edited by alwaysbored786; 05-08-2018 at 10:09 AM.
I decided to convert over to the LS6 Valley Cover since the PCV system is inside the cover, biggest pro to this is less hoses on the outside, not much else, but I like a cleaner look so I decided to go for it. For 2001-2002 LS1 engines, this valley cover upgrade SHOULD be a direct bolt on without any modification. However, I got myself a special block that must've been from an earlier casting, since I have a little nub right under the valley cover that blocks the PCV system from sitting flat, older LS1 engines need this piece cut off enough so the valley cover will fit, I had to do the same. Let me tell you, if you have to do this, make sure to brake clean the area before so the metal shavings dont stick to the oily surface, ask me how i know...
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For reference, LS1 vs LS6 Valley cover. You can see the black pcv stuff under the LS6 cover, the long line towards the front of the cover is the portion that hits the nub if its not cut off, thus not allowing it to sit flat.
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Next up was cleaning the nasty oil pan, it was pretty grody as the oil pan gasket was leaking. I used some oven cleaner (easy off), a brush, elbow grease and a pressure washer to quickly remove the main grit off, didnt try to get it perfect.
then I went ahead and installed the oil pan baffle, which i think is a must if you plan on tracking or spirited driving around corners, easily worth the $200 investment. Its a well designed baffle from Improved Racing, and is a quick bolt on. If you pressure wash, or use water, make sure to use some pressurized air to get all the crevices dried out, or let it sit to dry for a while.
dirty oil pan.jpg dirty oil pan 2.jpg clean oil pan.jpg clean oil.jpg baffle.jpg
I purchased a 228/230 112 LSA cam from Comp Cams, its mildly aggressive, and will work well with my setup on the ported heads and upgraded springs. I'll have some nice chop, but nothing over bearing, and my cats wont burn out in 5k miles, really aggressive cams will due this do to the unburnt fuel that can get past them.
Old stock cam came out really easy, its an absolute joke to work on these engines compared to our over engineered S52's or other BMW engines. I saw my cam bearings looked like they had some wear, felt them over and they weren't too bad, talked to some pro's and they agreed on telling me to just send it. Replacing cam bearings is a job for a machine shop, and these weren't bad enough for me to do that, maybe in the future...for now, ill send this bish.
When replacing a cam, make sure your oil passage ways are nice and clear still, otherwise this will eat up your cam and you'll spin a bearing. I threw some Lucas assembly lube on the cam and bearings, and got her thrown in, its ridiculously easy. New cam retainer plate and bolts to ensure it seals well, bolts already had blue loctite on them, Torque to 18 ft/lbs.
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- - - Updated - - -
I have a new oil pump that will be going on, along with the LS2 timing chain. Cam gear will go on as well, I wont be degreeing the cam since I dont have the degree tool, nor do I have a new crank gear that supports degreeing.
For now, the engine is loosely pieced back together, have the oil pan on with a few bolts. Awaiting the rear main seal to come in, then i'll knock that out, along with getting the new oil pump in, cam gear on, timing chain on, front cover, and oil pan, so the whole short block will be complete sans accessories at this point.
Once the heads come in tomorrow, i'll check the valve to piston clearance with the playdoh method, then get the fully torqued down once all looks good. This weekend i should get a little bit more work done, but ive got some other commitments too, progress is continuing though!
Heres a pic of how she sits at the moment, along with my humble work space, its a bit crowded in here, but it does the job. Poor M3's are being used as storage units until theyre running again!
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Glad to see the car getting rebuilt after that mishap! Been too long man!
-Chris
His mounts look great, im just taking the chance, hopefully we'll know if they fit soon enough.
Yea man, i just felt horrible after it sat for so long. Vowed to not buy another car till this is 100% running. Still think about the day i killed the S52, makes me sad since that engine was a freak! Can't believe you sold yours, you'll have to take this out for a drive once its moving under its own power.
I had to Google "Brot80 on Instagram."
Your mounts are made by Chuck, who is better known on this forum as ckpitt55. It looks like Chuck has moved most of his pictures to a different host, so his thread isn't what it once was.
Here's a build using Chuck's mounts and Sikky headers. The OP of that thread does not recommend Sikky headers.
It'll be interesting to see how well Chuck's mounts play with JTR headers.
Im hoping the JTR headers will fit a bit better than the sikky headers with Chuck's mounts, if not, ill be ok banging them in a bit. If they are super off, i may end up just buying Chuck's headers, or having them custom made, whatever is quickest.
By the way, I went through your thread countless times before pulling the trigger on my LS1, its a great resource!
So my heads came back from TEA yesterday, ahead of schedule! They look absolutely fantastic, like a piece of art.
I got the oil pump on, cam gear on, LS2 timing chain on, and ordered an RDE-62188 timing chain tensioner since my block was already drilled out for one, worth the $50. LS2 timing chain looks stronger than the LS1 chain too. When doing this, make sure you use blue loctite on all the bolts (oil pump, cam gear, pick up tube, tensioner).
Anyways, thought i'd test fit the head and one of the headers to see how it looks, felt freaking sweet to see some go fast parts finally on the engine, especially shiny ones.
Turned the motor over a few times to check that it all goes smoothly, saw no problems, all is well! I will check the lifter preload based on a suggestion from another enthusiast who has done this swap.
Hopefully this weekend will get the rear main seal on (I ordered the align-it tool for this), and get the oil pan and front covers all bolted on for the final time.
My LS7 clutch kit said it was delivered to my front porch today at 11am by FedEX, but my ring doorbell saw no motion at that time, and people were home to receive it, so now I have to wait to get that all sorted out....
Turns out my father saw the clutch kit on my porch and decided to throw it in the garage without telling me, so at least thats all sorted out.
This month has been pretty busy overall, but ive been trying to spend most of whatever the free time I have working on the engine.
Was able to get the rear main seal on, new front crank seal and cover, and of course gaskets to go along with them. Also got the oil pan on and aligned properly. Let me tell you, the alignment on these covers and oil pan is truly critical as they say, otherwise you'll do what I did and crack the oil pan as you're torquing it down :doh:
Cracked portion of pan:
I mostly suspect my Husky torque wrench, I dont believe its accurate at lower torque specs, so 18 ft-lbs on the torque wrench must've really been more like 30 ft-lbs or more. Anyways, got a new Oil pan, gasket, and level sensor from JEGS for $244 shipped...god I love GM prices.
Fresh oil pan on:
Heads are on, waiting to be torque, need to borrow the angle torque tool from Charlie.
And I've cleaned a good amount of parts from all the grease and grime that covered them, as well as a bunch of bolts. used a combo of gasoline and easy off oven cleaner with some elbow grease.
Dirty:
Clean!:
Chuck says my engine mounts will now maybe ship on Thursday, we'll see if the powdercoaters can get the job done quick.
Definitely not a monumental update, but hopefully the next one will be test fitting the engine once the mounts come in.
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