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Thread: Strange Electrical issue - need input.

  1. #1
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    Strange Electrical issue - need input.

    Working on getting the 1980iS back on the road.

    Got the engine fired up and running great four weeks or so ago with a new battery in it. Engine started up right away every time key was turned and battery was good not being run for a week or so.

    Then Last week turned the key to start and engine would not start, after three or so try's the engine would fire when the key was released back to the run position. But would not stay running as the crank was spinning down from the starter rotation speed needed to fully fire and run.

    Went away for four days came back and battery was dead - key was out of the car in the house.

    So I have two new issues after a few weeks of everything being ok.

    No power to coil while starter is cranking
    And battery now draining while sitting. Clock is on with key off?
    Last edited by OLD MAN; 04-09-2018 at 11:17 AM.

    Always FUN TO DRIVE - Build Thread & Tech info - 79 320/6 track car build thread -- Videos of track car -Adam in car Auto-x video - Start-up video - 4/2011 Adam's TOP BMW time San Diego BMWCCA - 4-5-15 Dyno break-in run new M20B25 - Exhaust Thread - Link

  2. #2
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    I Can't remember if this only applies to cars with points ignition, but I am pretty sure there is an ignition power resistor with a bypass while cranking for faster starts. Possibly that bypass line is broken or grounded, creating the poor start and draining battery?

  3. #3
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    Hazard Switch?

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by tlapham View Post
    I Can't remember if this only applies to cars with points ignition, but I am pretty sure there is an ignition power resistor with a bypass while cranking for faster starts. Possibly that bypass line is broken or grounded, creating the poor start and draining battery?
    Only the points ignition. This wire would be my first guess with 'starting' issues too, if the '80-83 also had the resistor/ballast bypass wire.
    Quote Originally Posted by cgifool View Post
    Hazard Switch?

    ---
    First make sure the fuel pump fuse and fuse holders are clean and tight. (* even though no power to the coil, just because...)

    Another guess is the ignition switch. I suppose to test this, pin #2 (start/run bus) on the diagnostic connector may help with t-shooting efforts. See if it's got good + voltage while turning the starter motor.

    There are times my '78 won't start when reaching my arm through the window to start it. I guess because I'm tweaking the 'old' ignition switch in a bad way, compared to when sitting in the seat.

    If you don't have a pdf copy of the 1980 electric diagram, here's one:
    (diagram of the diagnostic connector is on page 4-1B)

    1980
    http://www.findmymerchant.com/images...l/ETM_1980.pdf
    ---
    You'll have to do more tests related to the battery. Maybe the battery is just old, or maybe the diode(s) in the alt are going bad, or something else.
    Last edited by epmedia; 04-09-2018 at 03:50 PM.
    Tbd

  5. #5
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    Thank you all for the ideas and input. Will check them all if it happens again.

    Up date - after letting the car sit for two days after messing with it for half a day with no success

    The starting issue fixed itself. ????

    OLD BMW wiring issues ?!?!?!?!

    Always FUN TO DRIVE - Build Thread & Tech info - 79 320/6 track car build thread -- Videos of track car -Adam in car Auto-x video - Start-up video - 4/2011 Adam's TOP BMW time San Diego BMWCCA - 4-5-15 Dyno break-in run new M20B25 - Exhaust Thread - Link

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by OLD MAN View Post
    Thank you all for the ideas and input. Will check them all if it happens again.

    Up date - after letting the car sit for two days after messing with it for half a day with no success

    The starting issue fixed itself. ????

    OLD BMW wiring issues ?!?!?!?!
    Gremlins!
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  7. #7
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    Cool

    80-83 have electronic ignition control-version of Hall Effect Sensor.

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hall_effect_sensor

    Does the indicator lights come on when the key is in the run position ? Does the engine crank over ? Is there voltage at the Ignition Coil Wires ? Whats the resistance of the Distributor Coil ? Can you jumper the fuel pump relay socket and start the car ? Air-Fuel-Spark.

    Randy
    Last edited by 320iAman; 04-11-2018 at 10:14 AM.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by OLD MAN View Post

    No power to coil while starter is cranking
    And battery now draining while sitting. Clock is on with key off?
    Daryl,
    Clock staying on is ignition switch failing..

    Jeff

  9. #9
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    Cool

    When my ignition switch failed I could turn the key and there were no indicator lights and the starter would not engage.

    Randy

  10. #10
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    The reason for my current job of replacing the ignition switch is because of clock staying on and turn signals able to operate with key off. Pulled the clock fuse until I could get to it. Ignition switch leaving circuits open when off.

  11. #11
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    Cool

    The ignition switch has spring loaded contact plate if it does not return all the way,this causes this. Several symptoms of ignition switch going out. When mine went out-the key tumbler unit was toast too so I replaced everything, prices have gone up a lot, switch plus ignition lock cylinder was $95 and $30 for the keys and key tumbler unit.


    Randy
    Last edited by 320iAman; 04-12-2018 at 11:07 AM.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by JDB View Post
    Daryl,
    Clock staying on is ignition switch failing..

    Jeff

    Thank JDB I was hoping it was not that!!!!

    How have you been my friend! Hope all is great with you.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by 320iAman View Post
    The ignition switch has spring loaded contact plate if it does not return all the way,this causes this. Several symptoms of ignition switch going out. When mine went out-the key tumbler unit was toast too so I replaced everything, prices have gone up a lot, switch plus ignition lock cylinder was $95 and $30 for the keys and key tumbler unit.


    Randy

    Thanks Randy one more confirmation.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by Neu Alt View Post
    The reason for my current job of replacing the ignition switch is because of clock staying on and turn signals able to operate with key off. Pulled the clock fuse until I could get to it. Ignition switch leaving circuits open when off.

    OK! two confirmations and one it is - I need to replace it......

    - - - Updated - - -

    JDB on another topic - any ideas on a better distributor for the track car? Still running the original 320/6 disy with MSD 6LA and MSD Blaster coil.

    Not sure I can sing with crank fire ignition at the moment.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by 320iAman View Post
    When my ignition switch failed I could turn the key and there were no indicator lights and the starter would not engage.

    Randy
    Randy had this same issue in the beginning when first getting car back up and running - then it fixed itself. (GREMLINS!!!)
    I only let the car sit for 2.5 years. ?

    Always FUN TO DRIVE - Build Thread & Tech info - 79 320/6 track car build thread -- Videos of track car -Adam in car Auto-x video - Start-up video - 4/2011 Adam's TOP BMW time San Diego BMWCCA - 4-5-15 Dyno break-in run new M20B25 - Exhaust Thread - Link

  13. #13
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    Cool

    The Good News is they last a long time,The removal of the entire cylinder lock with ignition switch-back end and key tumbler lock-front end is difficult until one sees pushing down the spring loaded piece that locks the steering wheel ,,I used a thin spackling knife-putty knife to get the spring loaded piece in the housing- the steering wheel lock- past the fracture bolt which locks the steering wheel and back in as well.


    Randy

    Quotable Quotes:

    Mind over Matter
    Last edited by 320iAman; 04-12-2018 at 11:51 PM.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by OLD MAN View Post
    Thank JDB I was hoping it was not that!!!!

    How have you been my friend! Hope all is great with you.


    JDB on another topic - any ideas on a better distributor for the track car? Still running the original 320/6 disy with MSD 6LA and MSD Blaster coil.

    Not sure I can sing with crank fire ignition at the moment.
    I have been well, stating to feel like I should be "old man" Takes me forever to keep moving on my car projects.
    Do not know of a better setup for ignition than what you have.
    I spent hours tweaking the distributors in M20's, never made them work much better, but a crank fire would be the cat's meow I could use a map to tame the high compression!!
    But like you I just have not done it.

    Jeff
    Last edited by JDB; 04-15-2018 at 12:32 AM.

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