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Thread: Apex Arc 8 Fitment Questions!

  1. #1
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    Apex Arc 8 Fitment Questions!

    Hi all,

    I'm just about ready to put on my new wheel setup and I would just like another opinion. I've done extensive reading on the forums, Facebook pages, as well as call Apex. I haven't seen many people run this exact setup so any input would help. Anyways, I have 97 Coupe, completely stock aside from KW variant 1 coilovers. (Refer to picture for ride height.) I'm looking to put her on Arc 8's, 17x9 ET 30, wrapped in 245/40/17 pilot super sports. To my understanding, the front would need camber plates which I plan on picking up. (Ground control street) And it would also need a modest roll in the rear for them to fit. I plan on running -2.3 ish camber in the front and about -1.5 in the rear. In addition to that, i was advised to put a 5mm space up front to clear the coilover. I do not mind raising the car but i'm curious if these modifications would suffice to fit these wheels.
    [IMG][/IMG]
    Last edited by slowthirtysix; 04-08-2018 at 11:48 AM.

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    My brother runs this. You will need a modest roll at -2 rear camber, aggressive roll at -1.5. I think he still struggles with rubbing at -2 without destroying his quarters rolling too much.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Braymond141 View Post
    My brother runs this. You will need a modest roll at -2 rear camber, aggressive roll at -1.5. I think he still struggles with rubbing at -2 without destroying his quarters rolling too much.
    did he remove the sealant that is in the rear fender? and whats the max amount of camber i can get on a stock rear setup?

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by slowthirtysix View Post
    did he remove the sealant that is in the rear fender? and whats the max amount of camber i can get on a stock rear setup?
    I do not know.

    -2

    I should also note he’s running Conti tires. Michelin run larger than most other brands. You may struggle more with rubbing.
    Last edited by Braymond141; 04-08-2018 at 12:13 PM.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Braymond141 View Post
    I do not know.

    -2

    I should also note he’s running Conti tires. Michelin run larger than most other brands. You may struggle more with rubbing.
    i appreciate the help. im just getting very mixed responses. some people are saying that stated above would be sufficient, and apex said so as well. however your brother is having rubbing issues at -2.0. what tire size is he running on the contis?

  6. #6
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  7. #7
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    why not go with ET42 ones if you must go with 17x9? You'll need 12.5mm spacers up front for sure to clear struts.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by scooper View Post
    why not go with ET42 ones if you must go with 17x9? You'll need 12.5mm spacers up front for sure to clear struts.

    because the concave wheels are so much more appealing and aggressive. well i purchased a 5mm spacer as per recommendation of apex, but i have a 15mm one as well. i was told i'd have no problem running a 5mm spacer up front with -2.5 camber in the front with the setup i seek.
    Last edited by slowthirtysix; 04-08-2018 at 04:09 PM.

  9. #9
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    I was told by apex that 17x9 et30 concave with 245/40 tires should fit in the front with slight roll in the rear. I am running h&r sport/Bilstein sport on my 1999 m3 coupe. mounting the wheels this week so i could confirm. 5mm spacer up front needed with a BBK
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    I've also seen some people go half and half, with the ET42's in rear and the ET30's in front. The ET30 should easily fit in front with a 245/40 and no spacer (I use a 12mm spacer with an ET42 which is the same thing, and have GC coilovers), and the ET42 will fit in the rear with no roll required.

    Anyways, yeah I think your general assessment is correct. You will certainly need an aggressive rear fender roll to fit an ET30 back there, along with at least 2 degrees of camber.
    1999 M3/2/5 - Titanium Silver - Track/Weekend Toy


  11. #11
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    Braymond is right,

    you'll want -2 degree in the rear minimum with a modest roll to attempt to have a good time, even then under compression it'll rub on the inside of the wheel well. With the 9.0" et 30 set up in the rear, you're allowing the "rim" of your wheel to come closer to your fender. I'm running Apex arc 8 17x9.5" Et 35 all around with a 5mm spacer up front and -2.5 degree, no spacer in the rear and -2.0 degree camber with a 245/40/17 MPSS in my signature picture. This made the MPSS "stretch" just a little but enough for my "modest" roll to help out a bit, still rubs on hard compression though. The wheel is slightly wider than the 9.0" but the 35 offset vs the 30 allowed the barrel to come closer to the shock rather than more outward to the fender and require a more aggressive roll.


  12. #12
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    I have the 17x10 ET25 coming. And a set of Hard V2 flares. For now, I will run 275/40 and 255/40 since I have them. On 17x9 ET42 now with those tires. Hard roll and pull rear and spacer up front.
    Last edited by pbonsalb; 04-08-2018 at 08:09 PM.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by slowthirtysix View Post
    Hi all,

    I'm just about ready to put on my new wheel setup and I would just like another opinion. I've done extensive reading on the forums, Facebook pages, as well as call Apex. I haven't seen many people run this exact setup so any input would help. Anyways, I have 97 Coupe, completely stock aside from KW variant 1 coilovers. (Refer to picture for ride height.) I'm looking to put her on Arc 8's, 17x9 ET 30, wrapped in 245/40/17 pilot super sports. To my understanding, the front would need camber plates which I plan on picking up. (Ground control street) And it would also need a modest roll in the rear for them to fit. I plan on running -2.3 ish camber in the front and about -1.5 in the rear. In addition to that, i was advised to put a 5mm space up front to clear the coilover. I do not mind raising the car but i'm curious if these modifications would suffice to fit these wheels.
    [IMG][/IMG]
    What spacers are you running in that photo with the ds2's?
    ()()===[][]===()()


  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by slowthirtysix View Post
    Hi all,

    I'm just about ready to put on my new wheel setup and I would just like another opinion. I've done extensive reading on the forums, Facebook pages, as well as call Apex. I haven't seen many people run this exact setup so any input would help. Anyways, I have 97 Coupe, completely stock aside from KW variant 1 coilovers. (Refer to picture for ride height.) I'm looking to put her on Arc 8's, 17x9 ET 30, wrapped in 245/40/17 pilot super sports. To my understanding, the front would need camber plates which I plan on picking up. (Ground control street) And it would also need a modest roll in the rear for them to fit. I plan on running -2.3 ish camber in the front and about -1.5 in the rear. In addition to that, i was advised to put a 5mm space up front to clear the coilover. I do not mind raising the car but i'm curious if these modifications would suffice to fit these wheels.
    This is my setup. 17x9 ET30 concave Arc-8s w/ 245/40 PSSs all around. (Billies and H&R Sports).

    People aren't considering the offset for some of the comments here.

    You don't need anything for these to fit up front. You can run normal settings and be fine. Repeat - you don't need camber plates for these to fit up front. You don't even need a roll up front.

    In the back... there is a lot of work to do.

    You'll need a heavy roll and some amount of flare, and you will also need to pound out the inner fender (about 2-4 inches up from the lip on the inside). Also, you will rub in the back (2 o'clock on driver rear and 10 o'clock on pass rear) where the rear bumper cover meets the fender. I have mud flaps, and the're slowly being eaten away where the tires rub under full compression. I still need a little more flare at that bumper cover / fender joint, but I only get rubbing when I have kids in the back and hit some major compression.

    [Edit]

    Should have mentioned - I switched from H&R OE Sports to H&R Sports when one of my springs failed (yes, just randomly failed while it was sitting in the garage. I was leaning against the trunk when the front pass spring broke. Pretty random. But I digress), and get more rubbing now than before, but I was always making some contact. I have the thick E46 Convertible spring pads (3/4" if I remember), but you'll rub when compressed unless you really get some flare at that joint (And it can be a bit problematic). If you don't bottom out much, you may want to do it progressively until it's infrequent enough you can live with it.
    Last edited by blckstrm; 04-09-2018 at 01:56 AM.

    -Josh: 1998 S54 E36 M3/4/6 with most of the easy stuff and most of the hard stuff. At least twice. 271k miles. 1994 E32 740il with nothing but some MPars. 93k miles.

  15. #15
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    I'm running 17x9 et 30 with 245/40s and TRM coilovers

    I have a 10mm spacer up front and a good roll in the rear and about -1.5 degree camber all the way around. Doesn't rub at all.

    I did remove the sealant in the rear and cut the lip off and rolled the excess for a tighter roll

    Hopefully that helps
    Last edited by lbennyboobool; 04-10-2018 at 04:24 PM.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by blckstrm View Post
    and you will also need to pound out the inner fender (about 2-4 inches up from the lip on the inside).
    x100000, this is the biggest overlooked thing in the rear. It's needed more than the roll/pull.

    I run 255/40s on an ET35 and had to hammer out the rear. (in the -1.5 camber range). I did roll and slight pull but I don't think I was actually rubbing on the arch, it was all on the inner fender.
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  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Moron95M3 View Post
    x100000, this is the biggest overlooked thing in the rear. It's needed more than the roll/pull.

    I run 255/40s on an ET35 and had to hammer out the rear. (in the -1.5 camber range). I did roll and slight pull but I don't think I was actually rubbing on the arch, it was all on the inner fender.
    LOL - and for everyone else reading, that's why it's this x100000! You keep rolling and rolling and start flaring and it seems like you should have enough clearance that you're not rubbing, and yet it rubs again. But it's rubbing up inside, not at the lip. So it doesn't take as much flare as I put in - that was the fault of not understanding it was rubbing up inside the fender.

    Also, I did not remove the sealant, nor cut the lip off. But I'm good everywhere except that joint. And because of the tie in with bumper cover there, you need to be careful you don't break anything when trying to flare it out back there. I'd give it another go with the roller, but I moved from Dallas where my friends had one and don't know anyone down here who has one.

    I never gave measurements. I started with stock front camber and was fine, though now I have my hats swapped. (And despite people saying you'll get good tread life with zero toe, I have not. But the car is so much more responsive I can't go back).

    I have a decent amount of camber in back (-2.0) and rubbed some with the H&R EO Sports, and rub a little more now with the H&R Sports. I added a 15mm spring pad (added, not swapped) and it helped some.

    -Josh: 1998 S54 E36 M3/4/6 with most of the easy stuff and most of the hard stuff. At least twice. 271k miles. 1994 E32 740il with nothing but some MPars. 93k miles.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by mitch500 View Post
    What spacers are you running in that photo with the ds2's?
    i'm running a 15mm spacer up front, nothing in the rear

    - - - Updated - - -

    i appreciate everyone on the help. ill get these tires mounted soon and get back to all of you. now, what is everyones definition of a LIGHT roll and an AGGRESSIVE roll? i feel as if these are lightly tossed around are my general grasp on how much roll will throw of which category it goes into.

  19. #19
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    as for the issue of rubbing against the wheel well, wouldnt a simple fix of raising the car help? if not, what do you do in that situation?

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by slowthirtysix View Post
    as for the issue of rubbing against the wheel well, wouldnt a simple fix of raising the car help? if not, what do you do in that situation?
    You just pound it out. The fender is double walled, so the metal on the outside is safe. You just take a sledge, get in the wheel well, and pound it outward.

    -Josh: 1998 S54 E36 M3/4/6 with most of the easy stuff and most of the hard stuff. At least twice. 271k miles. 1994 E32 740il with nothing but some MPars. 93k miles.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by slowthirtysix View Post
    did he remove the sealant that is in the rear fender?
    I don't think you will get much of a roll without removing the sealant...PIA...
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  22. #22
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    I can tell you my setup which might help.

    I have 17x9.5 Arc-8, et35
    -2 rear camber (iirc), -2.5 front (shims)
    245/40 htr-z iii tires
    10mm front spacer to clear PSS9 (due to shims tipping the top of the wheel wheel in but not the strut. Camber plates you may not need spacers if at ET30)
    Lowered almost all the way down front, maybe 5-7mm left to come down in the rear collars

    I used to run 255/35 which fit as well, but had to raise the front about 1cm which altered my alignment settings when putting them on for the track so ditched them for 245s.

    Rears are rolled tight, unfortunately, over the sealant as done by a previous shop, so not as good of a roll as can be. Fronts are rolled as well.

    I would think you'd be fine with the 17x9 and a modest roll in the rear.
    Last edited by adamnur; 04-09-2018 at 11:31 PM.

  23. #23
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    I have 17x8.5 ARC8's squared.
    -2.6 camber front
    -1.8 camber rear
    12.5mm spacers on all 4
    Semi-aggressive roll and it just barely doesn't rub

  24. #24
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    Since we're compiling info:

    17x9 ET42 ARC8's with 245/40-17 Hankook RS4 tires
    -2.5 camber front (up to -3.5 when I go to the track)
    -2.0 camber rear
    12mm spacers front, no spacers rear
    no fender roll
    ride height is about 1 inch below stock front and rear
    1999 M3/2/5 - Titanium Silver - Track/Weekend Toy


  25. #25
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    People do indeed use the 17x9" ET30 on the front of their E36's. It's a great looking wheel with it's concavity and because of it's lower offset and slightly narrower width than the 17x9.5" it clears almost any coilover set up while not requiring wheel spacers. We recommend using a 235/40/17 tire on this wheel unless you have camber plates then you can go with a wider tire. The 17x9.5" ET35 is actually a more ideal wheel for the rear of an E36 with stock fenders because it's combination of higher offset and wider width brings the wheel 11mm towards the inside of the car(away from the fender) compared to the 17x9" ET30.

    Overall if you are looking for concave wheels on your E36 the 17x9" ET30 and 17x9.5" ET35 set up is great for those with minimal negative camber in the front. The 17x9.5" ET35 square set up is good for those that are looking to fit wider tires up front and have the supporting modifications to fit it (camber plates, oem style front suspension or coilover equipped with 6" linear race spring, and 5mm wheel spacers). Since this is our wide wheel and tire fitment guide all of our concave 17's on the E36 chassis are a very tough fit when using wider than 245/40/17 tires and that is why you do not see many track cars using them.
    http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=428767

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