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Thread: DKM Twin Disc Not Fully Disengaging on E46 M3 After Install

  1. #1
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    DKM Twin Disc Not Fully Disengaging on E46 M3 After Install

    Recently I installed a twin disc dkm clutch on my turbo e46 M. Once assembled,I am having issues getting the clutch to disengage. If I start the car in gear to get going I am able to rev match enough to shift, but not getting full disengagement.
    Does anyone have any experience with DKM clutches or twin discs for that matter? The instructions did not mention anything different installation-wise than a normal clutch install.
    I've now have had the tranny out twice in as many days to make sure things looked good inside and cannot come up with a good reason that I wouldn't be getting full disengagement when I press the clutch in. I have great pedal pressure and everything worked prior to swapping the clutch out.
    I've heard of issues where people have shimmed the ball on the shift fork or expended the slave cylinder in other cases when new clutch installs have caused this issue, however I don't have experience with this.
    Can someone point me in the right direction? I'm pulling my hair out.
    Alpine White --- E46 M3 --- Maximum PSI --- Precision 6266 --- Custom 3" Exhaust --- Statusgruppe --- Varrstoen ---
    The rest is just smoke and tires
    -Snails- The real reason the tortoise beat the hare.-

  2. #2
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    Have you tried to drive it yet? Just around the driveway I mean to see if one of the discs is hanging on the input shaft?

    Do you have a clutch stop?

    Is your pivot metal or plastic and is it in good shape?

    Factory rubber line in the car?


    All those things could give you issues. I would strongly recommend bleeding the clutch as it is an easy 30 minutes to rule out.


    My dkm disengages just fine but the travel is real long because I have a larger slave cylinder because of the other twin disc I had. I'll be changing it back to factory diameter. The car is still up on stands so I haven't driven it yet but I verified by spinning the output shaft

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin325i View Post
    Have you tried to drive it yet? Just around the driveway I mean to see if one of the discs is hanging on the input shaft?

    Do you have a clutch stop?

    Is your pivot metal or plastic and is it in good shape?

    Factory rubber line in the car?


    All those things could give you issues. I would strongly recommend bleeding the clutch as it is an easy 30 minutes to rule out.


    My dkm disengages just fine but the travel is real long because I have a larger slave cylinder because of the other twin disc I had. I'll be changing it back to factory diameter. The car is still up on stands so I haven't driven it yet but I verified by spinning the output shaft
    Did you place your sprung up on the tranny or motor side?

    Pulled clutch stop out to test, got slightly more clutch.
    Pivot ball is plastic but seems to be in good shape.
    Does have original rubber line but I donít believe Iím having any bubbling or bulging.
    Did bleed it a bit but not sure whether I should go back and try more I have plenty of pedal.

    Everything worked fine with the stock configuration. Just switched to the twin disc with the expectation that the turbo would get the best of it.
    Alpine White --- E46 M3 --- Maximum PSI --- Precision 6266 --- Custom 3" Exhaust --- Statusgruppe --- Varrstoen ---
    The rest is just smoke and tires
    -Snails- The real reason the tortoise beat the hare.-

  4. #4
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    So it's not uncommon to have those plastic pivots compress and wear and give the symptoms you describe.

    I did the orientation as shipped which I believe is sprung disk towards engine springs to the transmission side. Then the second disc is the unsprung. I replaced the clutch fork, used the supplied throw out bearing and it's a stainless pivot pin.

    I'm not sure if the master cylinder is different e36 to e46 causing the difference. But with the slave I have it uses all the pedal travel but like I said I'll be replacing it.

  5. #5
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    Original fork and pivot pin? These are wear items and should always be replaced every clutch job.

    850csi stainless pin is a good upgrade.

  6. #6
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    Also did you tighten the pressure plate down evenly? Star?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1989 535i - sold
    1999 Tiag/Dove M3 - sold
    1998 Turbo Arctic/black - current
    2004 TiAg/Black - Current

    PTE6870 | 1.15 ar | Hp Cover, Custom Divided T4 bottom-mount, 3.5" SS exhaust, Dual Turbosmart Compgates, Turbosmart Raceport BOV, 3.5" Treadstone Intercooler, 3.5" Vibrant resonator and muffler, Arp 2k Headstuds | Main studs | 87mm Je pistons | Eagle rods | 9.2:1 static compression, Ces 87mm cutring, Custom solid rear subframe bushings, Akg 85d diff bushings, 4 clutch 3.15 diff, 14mm diff bolt conversion, Poly engine mounts, UUC trans W/ enforcers, 22RPD OBD2 Stock ECU id1700 E85 tune, 22RPD Big power Transmission swap w/ GS6-53

  7. #7
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    yes, evenly in a start pattern.
    I went ahead and ordered a stainless steel pin. Going to be tearing it down again I suppose. But obviously would like this to be the last time.

    Does anyone have experience with shimming that pin? In the description it states that the insertion shaft is longer for shimming purposes so it must be common.

    Also can someone confirm which side the sprung disc is typically located on? Sprung hub has gear box side engraved on it, however that isnt the way it is showed broken down on the website. I've had it installed both ways and have not had success contacting the manufacturer.

    Thanks for all the help
    Alpine White --- E46 M3 --- Maximum PSI --- Precision 6266 --- Custom 3" Exhaust --- Statusgruppe --- Varrstoen ---
    The rest is just smoke and tires
    -Snails- The real reason the tortoise beat the hare.-

  8. #8
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    Competition clutch is the dkm distributor. Contact them. They were very helpful in getting me a new disc. I'm positive the sprung disc was at the flywheel as shipped I just checked a couple pictures I had.

    I've never had to shim a pivot but always use the stainless or brass ones. Low pedal usually equals air in the line.

  9. #9
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    Update. Just put the tranny back in for the 3rd time. New pin, new fork and bled the slave by removing it and holding the pin fully compressed.
    Clutch will not disengage. Iím out of ideas.

    Anyone have any thoughts?

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pring View Post
    Update. Just put the tranny back in for the 3rd time. New pin, new fork and bled the slave by removing it and holding the pin fully compressed.
    Clutch will not disengage. Iím out of ideas.

    Anyone have any thoughts?
    Is this the same clutch as comp? They discontinued theirs recently...


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1989 535i - sold
    1999 Tiag/Dove M3 - sold
    1998 Turbo Arctic/black - current
    2004 TiAg/Black - Current

    PTE6870 | 1.15 ar | Hp Cover, Custom Divided T4 bottom-mount, 3.5" SS exhaust, Dual Turbosmart Compgates, Turbosmart Raceport BOV, 3.5" Treadstone Intercooler, 3.5" Vibrant resonator and muffler, Arp 2k Headstuds | Main studs | 87mm Je pistons | Eagle rods | 9.2:1 static compression, Ces 87mm cutring, Custom solid rear subframe bushings, Akg 85d diff bushings, 4 clutch 3.15 diff, 14mm diff bolt conversion, Poly engine mounts, UUC trans W/ enforcers, 22RPD OBD2 Stock ECU id1700 E85 tune, 22RPD Big power Transmission swap w/ GS6-53

  11. #11
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    Cycle the clutch and bleed it at the slave cylinder. Keep going till you're sick of it. Then do it like 20 more times.

    When you try and push the slave piston all the way in you pull air in when the slave fully extends.

    Do you have any pictures of your setup going together?

    Shoot me a pm and I'll give you my contact info. We can get this figured out.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by vollosso View Post
    Is this the same clutch as comp? They discontinued theirs recently...


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I think from what I understand is DKM is an affiliate of comp clutch. When you contact DKM support you get forwarded to comp clutch.

    @kevin325i you have a pm

    Below are some pics for clarity.

    Sprung disc not marked gear box side.


    sprung disc marked gear box side


    solid hub no special marking


    opposite side of solid disc again no special marking



    sprung hub installed with floating ring



    solid hub installed with alignment tool in place



    pressure plate loosely fit up prior to torque
    Last edited by Pring; 04-21-2018 at 12:07 PM.
    Alpine White --- E46 M3 --- Maximum PSI --- Precision 6266 --- Custom 3" Exhaust --- Statusgruppe --- Varrstoen ---
    The rest is just smoke and tires
    -Snails- The real reason the tortoise beat the hare.-

  13. #13
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    I know as of yesterday comp stopped selling this clutch for e46 application


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1989 535i - sold
    1999 Tiag/Dove M3 - sold
    1998 Turbo Arctic/black - current
    2004 TiAg/Black - Current

    PTE6870 | 1.15 ar | Hp Cover, Custom Divided T4 bottom-mount, 3.5" SS exhaust, Dual Turbosmart Compgates, Turbosmart Raceport BOV, 3.5" Treadstone Intercooler, 3.5" Vibrant resonator and muffler, Arp 2k Headstuds | Main studs | 87mm Je pistons | Eagle rods | 9.2:1 static compression, Ces 87mm cutring, Custom solid rear subframe bushings, Akg 85d diff bushings, 4 clutch 3.15 diff, 14mm diff bolt conversion, Poly engine mounts, UUC trans W/ enforcers, 22RPD OBD2 Stock ECU id1700 E85 tune, 22RPD Big power Transmission swap w/ GS6-53

  14. #14
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    Iím not sure my problem was the same as yours. The problem I had was the input shaft cover that the clutch fork slides on had to be shortened. It would press on the clutch fingers and slightly engage the clutch. I had the tranny in and out several times to figure it out.


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  15. #15
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    I wonder if it's because of quality concerns or because dkm dropped the msrp to $895

    Looking at the pieces there is nothing that looks alarming or sketchy manufacturing wise. I am gonna be pissed if I have to drop the trans again and shorten that throwout bearing tube. It honestly doesn't look like it can touch the fingers though. I could see it preventing full disengagement though..

  16. #16
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    update:

    And I hope that the next guy that runs across this problem reads this post prior to pulling his hair out .

    First thing I'd like to note is make sure you pull the slave out and do the 45* bleed manually with the slave. Then I installed it and reverse bled it using an old mighty vac that would do both vacuum and pump. ( I would never attempt to bleed a clutch without this tool again). Bleed until you cannot stand bleeding
    With that being said when I took the car off the lift I was able to get all gears except for reverse. 1st and 2nd were still very difficult to get the car to go into gear. From what I understand that is due to reverse often times are straight cut and do not have synchros. I havent not done research on that, but what I was told.

    I took the car down and took it for about a 10 mile drive and as I drove the car it became easier to engage gears. Still not reverse. I brought the car home and let it sit for about 5 hrs. When I came back out to put the car in the garage I took it for a little spin just to see what happened. Everything shifted like normal. Some air must have been dislodged and escaped through the reservoir. That last little bit made all the difference in the world. Currently I'm working on putting a few hundred miles on the clutch before I really beat it, but every time I drive it, the car seems to shift better.

    Moral of the story... Make sure its bled and then once the clutch is close disengaging but you are still fighting it, maybe its a good idea to take it and drive it for a few miles to see if maybe that brand new clutch doesn't need to break in a little before it will let go.

    Shout out to Kevin325i for helping me out with some solid information. And giving me some confidence that the clutch was installed correctly. He provided me with way more info than the vendor or the manufacturer has provided me with in the last 3 weeks.


    pic for attention
    Alpine White --- E46 M3 --- Maximum PSI --- Precision 6266 --- Custom 3" Exhaust --- Statusgruppe --- Varrstoen ---
    The rest is just smoke and tires
    -Snails- The real reason the tortoise beat the hare.-

  17. #17
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    No problem Eric!

  18. #18
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    Hey happy endings!!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1989 535i - sold
    1999 Tiag/Dove M3 - sold
    1998 Turbo Arctic/black - current
    2004 TiAg/Black - Current

    PTE6870 | 1.15 ar | Hp Cover, Custom Divided T4 bottom-mount, 3.5" SS exhaust, Dual Turbosmart Compgates, Turbosmart Raceport BOV, 3.5" Treadstone Intercooler, 3.5" Vibrant resonator and muffler, Arp 2k Headstuds | Main studs | 87mm Je pistons | Eagle rods | 9.2:1 static compression, Ces 87mm cutring, Custom solid rear subframe bushings, Akg 85d diff bushings, 4 clutch 3.15 diff, 14mm diff bolt conversion, Poly engine mounts, UUC trans W/ enforcers, 22RPD OBD2 Stock ECU id1700 E85 tune, 22RPD Big power Transmission swap w/ GS6-53

  19. #19
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    Interesting, I'm having this same issue with my southbend clutch. I just buttoned everything back up and it was good for about 20 miles although the engagement point was fairly low. Coming home yesterday though the clutch was suddenly engaging almost at the floor. The clutch pedal still feels the same. Bleeding it hasn't made any difference but I'll pull the slave out and do it again tomorrow. The crazy thing is it did the same thing with the SMG setup. It drove fine for several weeks, then all of sudden it would release the clutch at the slightest touch of the gas pedal. No amount of bleeding with INPA helped it, I finally made an adjustable pivot pin and was able to teach in the clutch release point but it failed another part and I swapped everything to a manual in a fit of frustration. Now it's doing it again and unfortunately, my threaded pivot pin hole is in the other bellhousing...I'm about ready to pull my hair out.
    Max PSI E85 stage 2

  20. #20
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    Get rid of that rubber hose #1. #2 buy the rogue engineering adjustable slave pin. Set it 1/2 way in between stock and max setting. Also, to note, never use a plastic pivot ball with any of these HD clutches. They wear real fast and you will have shifting issues.
    #4 drop in a T56 magnum and be done with it.

    Good day.

  21. #21
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    I put the rogue slave pin in, it didn't make a difference. The transmission got pulled after work this evening. It looks like the pressure plate bolts backed out. I have some spares that have never been used so I'll torque it back down. I'm also pondering shimming the stainless steel pivot with a washer for a little insurance, I don't feel like cutting the transmission and threading the hole again to make it adjustable.


    Last edited by efour6smg; 07-06-2018 at 11:54 PM.
    Max PSI E85 stage 2

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