01 E38 no Start after timing guide job

[bmwdirtracer]

Be brave. It's stuck. Free it up, and it'll likely pump up with oil and you'll save yourself a ton of work.

If this doesn't work for you, you're going to tear the engine apart, and replace all the lifters.

You don't have to hit it like you're trying to drive it into the netherworld. Just lower that piston a bit (screwdriver in plug hole will tell you), put a wooden or plastic dowel on the lifter, and hit that dowel with a hammer. If the lifter pops back up, you're on the road again. If it doesn't, you may have a broken spring or bent valve.


Here: You have the attention of ptarditi, a Master tech whom I trust and rely on, completely. Let's ask him to please comment on whether I'm off base here.......

[Imissmyvet]

What do you mean it will pump up with oil? Are you saying I should put oil on it before hitting it with a hammer and dowel?

[bmwdirtracer]

No. Old lifters often leak down the oil inside them, which makes them rise to the proper height. This happens most often after extended periods of inactivity. Usually, they pump up again pretty quickly when the engine's running at higher rpm. However, if the lifter's stuck down, it's holding the valve open, and it's not ever going to pump up, because the cam's not moving it. If it's really stuck down 1/4" below the cam lobe, there's a strong possibility you have a bent valve, because this is an interference engine....meaning that the valve can't be extended when the piston comes up.

Really, you have nothing to lose: either the lifter's stuck, and you free it up, and the valve is NOT bent, and you drive the car. OR the lifter's stuck, and the valve is bent, because the lifter kept it open....and you have to have the engine apart, and a new valve, valve job and lifters, etc.

[Imissmyvet]

Chris,

I must be getting tired. The lifter is NOT down in the hole. It is at the same height as the one next to it. I must be blind.

This being the case...whats next?

[bmwdirtracer]

When you turn the engine by hand, does the lifter move with the cam lobe?

Do a leak down test.

[spaceavenger]

Wow, was reading this post like a mystery novel but discovered the last chapter was missing. I just did the timing chain on my 2001 E38 and had watched almost all the YouTube videos associated with the job. One was using the German Auto solutions timing set and they stated that it could be done wrong because of the dual pins on each wheel setter and actually had to take it apart and do it again. Also the lack of compression could be from the piston hitting the valves if the timing was indeed off and the engine was started and run. Just a thought.

[bmwdirtracer]

I'd really like to know why people watch YouTube videos to do complex timing jobs instead of using the factory directions. I know who I trust.....

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/

[spaceavenger]

I have the Bentley Manual but found it lacking many details so the videos filled in a lot of gaps and created a consensus of the best procedures.

[bmwdirtracer]

Try the link to the factory manuals which I gave above. Bookmark it; I promise you, it's the best resource.

[spaceavenger]

Thanks I just checked it out regarding the chain tensioner, I have a rattle that lasts 1-2 seconds at cold start only, learned from the videos that BMW redesigned the tensioner because of insufficient spring pressure. Do you think it is a reasonable step to install the upgraded one?

Also it was a big deal to maintain pressure on the newly timed engine before installing the tensioner but the procedure to change the tensioner just says unscrew it and screw in a new one. Why is it no longer important to maintain a temporary pressure on the guide?

[jackgoesback]

Hi everyone! I am having similar problems with my E53 with M62 engine.I have purchased it and on my way home it started rattling like hell so I was expecting a timing guide issue and after I found out that no one in this area is interested with completing this job me and my mate decided to complete it together. Dismantled everything and replaced with genuine parts all chains, tensioners, gaskets (rocker cover, inlet manifold, timing covers) as well as the oil return valve and both hoses, water pump and spark plugs. I used the cheap set of tools which was not the greatest but managed to finish it off and follow all the instructions online, car fired up first time and was running like a dream.I took it for a spin and it soon developed a misfire.First it would still start and I thought it was running better when cold but on the day I was to putting it in the garage it didn't want to start at all. Went online and was looking for a possible cause so I decided to retime the engine as I was suspecting that something came loose. When I took the upper covers off I found the chain in complete order with continuity on both banks but still decided to retime it and did it again.Put everything together and it wouldn't start.It turns but not fires up.Checked all the wires, coils and plugs and have spark on every coil. Did the trick with the fuel pump fuse and it goes and with the fuse in it seem to want to start but does not.Without it is just turning so I assume the fuel pump works fine.I am out of ideas and will be very sad if I have to scrap this but seem to be a dead end. Please help if you have any ideas.Thanks<br><br>

[bass528]

Disregard, not sure how this landed on the first page.