01 E38 no Start after timing guide job

[bmwdirtracer]

There's no indication that you have any current issue with Vanos or timing.

If you have the ignition switch on when the MAF is unplugged, you'll set that MAF code. Check that plug again, and re-clear codes.

As for the misfire, swap #7 coil with #8, throw a new plug in #8, or switch that with a different cylinder too. Also check that the injector plug for that cylinder was properly engaged when you put the injector wiring rails back on.....

What spark plugs are you using?

The quotation marks in "known "good" coilpack" worry me, doublecheck by swapping to #7.

And, make sure that the coil 8 plug doesn't have a pin that pushes back into the plug....just gently push on the plug's pins with a tiny screwdriver.

[Imissmyvet]

Hey Chris,

So I switched coil packs between 7&8 and put a new plug in 8. I also unplugged and replugged the MAF. MAF code is gone but the other two still remain, after resetting codes and starting the car again. I also checked the connectors on the injectors and all seem to be connected properly. Still same result.

[bmwdirtracer]

Do you have a stethoscope? If not, put a long screwdriver to your ear, and listen to the injector body. (Yes, I know, it's almost impossible to touch #8) Beyond the engine sounds, a working injector clicks - do you hear that? Next, withdraw the coil, put a plug in it, and see if it's sparking. After that, we're on to a compression test....

[Imissmyvet]

Hey Chris,

I have done everything you said. I had a stethoscope so I was able to listen to each injector and they all clicked as you said they should. I pulled #8 plug and coil and there is spark as well. I would be surprised to find a compression issue as the car ran perfectly before this project got started and it only has 91k on the clock. But if that is what you think is next, That is what I will do. Is there anything else I should be looking at?

[Imissmyvet]

JimLev...I have seen and heard many people make ugly comments on forums, but not so much on this forum. MOST of the people on here are very helpful and offer sound advise. I wouldn't have expected that from here, much less from a moderator.
I am a rookie and thus, make rookie mistakes. But I prefer to learn from my mistakes so that at some point I can offer advise rather than solicit it.

[MIKYZZ4]

Does the appearance/condition of #8 plug differ from the others?

[bmwdirtracer]

How much have you driven the car, Mark? Since there are no timing codes, and you have spark, and you have injector pulse, I think I'd recommend that you warm up the engine for ~5 minutes, then clear the codes, then go drive it, HARD, for a few miles. Take your scan tool with you; if the check engine light returns, read and clear the codes, then drive it again, see if the code returns/ (Let's see if am Italian Tune-up fixes it).

[MauiM3Mania]

This sub-forum is about mechanical aspects of the BMW line. There's no need for rude remarks or suggestions on how to ask for help. Feel free to offer help regarding the initial request if you have something solid to share, if not it probably is best to sit back.

Two messages have been deleted as neither add to the discussion.

[Mayorchuck]

Just a few thoughts. Did you swap the boot with the coil? I've had a boot cause a single misfire. Are still getting the 'Misfire on multiple cylinders', along with the cylinder 8? A flow test on the cat for that side might be a consideration.

Have you done a compression test yet? Another less common issue is an exhaust valve failure. That's beyond my experience level but have seen it a few times on your car.

[Imissmyvet]

Hey Chris,

I will drive it tomorrow and report back once I have done everything you advised. I dont want to take it out and something happen at night. Thanks!

[Imissmyvet]

Hey MayorChuck,

When I did the swap I did it as an assembly with the boot. Yes still getting both the misfire on both cyl 8 as well as multiple cyls. I really dont understand how I keep coming up with this stuff on a perfect running 91k motor. I thought due to the rattle that I was getting on cold start that the guides were going bad and that is what started all of this, and it has been one thing after another since. Albeit a lot of rookie mistakes. But this is really getting to me and I am ready to give up and take it to a indy. I want to learn and be knowledgeable with this car but I swear sometimes I just want to run it off a cliff.

After I finish running it as Chris advises, if that doesnt clear things up, I will do the compression test.

[Imissmyvet]

So...I took the car out today. It was painful. It was like sitting next to a street rod with one of those radical cams in it. I ran the crap out of it. It has next to no power, except for when I first reset the codes. It then accelerates somewhat better and I dont have people on my bumper. But then the SES light starts flashing and down goes the power. Once its moving and up to speed, it does better. But God forbid, you come up to stopped traffic, a hill, or traffic light. Its back to no power and horrible missing, until I reset codes. Then its just manageable until the rpm's climb above 2 and then it starts all over again. So I dont know what else to check. Could it be the DME itself? Just taking a stab in the dark here.

[Mayorchuck]

If you came to the forum with just that last post, I would say you have a large vacuum leak or bad cats. Any smoke on start up? Just seems like you are getting unmetered air in somewhere.

[Imissmyvet]

Just did a compression test. 0 compression on cylinder 8. 170+ on all others...I dont understand how this is possible. Car ran perfectly when I started...

[Imissmyvet]

Why would clearing the codes cause the motor to run better if for all intensive purposes I had a dead cylinder? Doesnt make sense.

[Mayorchuck]

It's running in default mode as DME gathers info from the various sensors. Eventually it will cut off fuel to the cylinders it detects a misfire on to save the cats from raw fuel.

I'm not a good one to answer your compression issue beyond what I said before.

[bmwdirtracer]

How many cylinders did you do a compression test on? If you only tested #8, the gauge is probably bad. Clearing codes will not fix a cylinder with zero compression.

Clearing codes WILL temporarily fix fuel shut off to a cylinder. Fuel shut off happens when a cylinder has more than "X" number of misfires in "Y" period of time.

Repeat the compression test on multiple cylinders, OR, do a leak down test on multiple cylinders (including #8)

[Imissmyvet]

Hey Chris,

I did all eight. Only #8 had less than 170. It had Zero

[bmwdirtracer]

Did you unscrew the gauge, and then repeat the test? If so, you need to do a leak-down test, to find out which direction the compression is disappearing.

Since this came, apparently, out of nowhere, I'd have to guess that you have a lifter stuck, holding the valve open. Or maybe one cam is broken, between 7 and 8.

Time to pull the driver's side valve cover and see if you can see the problem.

[Imissmyvet]

Yes sir I did. Went through the entire motor and then came back and checked #8 again.

[bmwdirtracer]

Personally, I'd start with a leak down test, which will require shop air , and a leak down tester. If you figure out which direction the leaking air is going, you'll have a better idea of where to look for the problem. Pulling the valve cover, and seeing whether there's anything odd about the positions of the valves might tell you something.

[ptarditi]

Valve stuck open, or collapsed intake lifter

[Imissmyvet]

Pulled the valve cover and the oilers. No broken cam. I cant see that there is a sticky lifter, but I might be missing something..Is there a tell-tale way of looking, short of leak down?

- - - Updated - - -

Am I correct, that the only way to check lifters is to pull the cams? That's a bit scary. And I would assume that also means I have to pull both upper and lower covers and re-time the motor, again?

[bmwdirtracer]

When you turn the engine by hand, does each cam lobe on # 8 contact the lifter, and move it, and does it always stay in contact with the cam?

Are you brave?

Put a wooden dowel or similar on top of the lifter. Hit it with a hammer. Repeat for each valve on #8. No, this is not an approved procedure.

[Imissmyvet]

Not that Brave, buddy. I did however, check the lifters and turned the motor until the lobes were pointing straight out and the farthest back intake lifter is stuck down in the hole. It doesnt return to the out position no matter were the cam is turned. So I am guess it needs to be replaced? Exactly how is that done? Pull the cam, remove lifter, replace, and re-time motor?